Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have been having problems with my stock coils for ages so I finally bouught some JJR coils from justjap for a series 1 R33 GTS-T

Pulled this old coils out this arvo after some dramas with stripped screws and other such un-fun doings, put the new coils in the brackets and went to put them back in only to find my wiring loom won't connect up. Comparing a new coil to an older one, the design seems ever so SLIGHTLY different. Different enough though to have halted my progress and frustrate me to no end.

I am wondering if

A: The coils actually require a new, matching loom (Justjap website said direct replacement though)

or

B: They accidently sent me Series 2 coils.

I don't know how different S2 coils are to S1 coils.

Any suggestions? Its too late to call them now and ask and I was kinda needing the car tomorrow for work. I really do NOT want to have gone to all this trouble just to have to put the old coils back in :)

Like Splitfires they hook straight up to the factory loom.

Did you order the right set? It is possible pending the actual month of manufacture of your car that it is a Series 1.5 and therefore you will actually need Series II coils.

Did you check the compatibility on their website before you bought them to ensure you got the correct set?

Hey, thanks for the quick reply. My car is a 1995 and is listed as a series 1 so I just bought series 1 coils. My car may be a series 1.5, I was unaware they had Series 2 coils?

I just looked at them further, the earth and positive are reversed so they are definetly the wrong coils for my car. The receipt from justjap says series 1.

If my car indeed does require S2 coils, being a late 1995 series 1 (and thus possibly a 1.5) then the mistake is mine for assuming I needed series 1 coils.

What does the TPS look like?

If it is square with two plugs coming off the same side then it's S2, if it's rectangular with one plug coming off the side and wires going to another plug then it's series one.

Series one coil packs have 4 little bolts holding them to the bracket, Series 2 only have 3

"Series one coil packs have 4 little bolts holding them to the bracket, Series 2 only have 3"

Gah.

My old coils have 3 bolts, the new ones have 4.

Sigh.

My car IS a series 1 though. What did nissan do, just throw random S2 bits onto the 95's for the hell of it?

Gonna have to call Justjap tomorrow i guess and try get the S2's sent out. Screw putting the car back together, Ill just have to take the bike tomorrow.

Thanks for your help guys. I feared they had sent me Series 2 coils by mistake, in the end it turns out I NEEDED series 2. Bloody Nissan.

Hey, thanks for the quick reply. My car is a 1995 and is listed as a series 1 so I just bought series 1 coils. My car may be a series 1.5, I was unaware they had Series 2 coils?

I just looked at them further, the earth and positive are reversed so they are definetly the wrong coils for my car. The receipt from justjap says series 1.

If my car indeed does require S2 coils, being a late 1995 series 1 (and thus possibly a 1.5) then the mistake is mine for assuming I needed series 1 coils.

I have a set of S2 JJR coilpacks here if JJ won't take them back. These were in the car for 2 weeks. I can sell the other set as series 1 which is what I intended to do with this other set if that helps.

I have a set of S2 JJR coilpacks here if JJ won't take them back. These were in the car for 2 weeks. I can sell the other set as series 1 which is what I intended to do with this other set if that helps.

why wont JJ take it back?

wtf

95model R33's have a S2 motor... I know because I have one

Yes. I was unaware the 1.5's used the 2's engine. Lesson learned I guess.

You click on the S2 coils on the Justjap website and it says

"Engine Compatibility:

- Nissan R33 RB25DET (1/95-5/98)

Which I would have seen, except that I didn't even bother clicking on the S2 coils as I dismissed them thinking I needed S1 :)

1995 are commonly refered to as series 1.5, have some parts of the series 2 and some parts of the series one

yeh yours will probably be series 2 engine. Two easiest ways to tell would be looking at your TPS as already mentioned or looking at the back of your engine valley cover and if theres no igniter there then u will need series 2 coils.

ah im tired so if i've stuffed up someone correct me haha

Easy tiger, read the post properly before you jump the gun.

I am certain that if the wrong coils were ordered they will be more than happy to switch them over :)

hey blitz, im referring to 3lit3 32's comment, not lachlans :O

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
    • I'd want at least $40K for mine, but thats easy to say cos I'm not selling anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...