Comments On Dyno Graphs

[R33GTRKid]

I have put up a while back in the RB26 turbo thread however rather than tie that thread up with chit chat, I am posting up the graphs here and am seeking some feedback.

The mods of note are:

GTSS kit

HKS extension kit (dumps)

Tomei manifold

PFC d'jetro

M's intakes

HKS racing chamber kit

Tomei poncams type B plus adjustable gears

Sard 700's

HKS fuel pump, Nismo AFR

EVC6

mines stainless front, race cat (VERY high flowing lol), Kakimoto full mega N1 cat back

Couple of things:

1. I am not sure what revs each of the speeds along the bottom represent, but it was in fourth gear and obviously where it drops off just over 215ish is obviously 8,000 rpm.

2. so it looks like it is hitting mac boost of 17 psi at about 3,500 odd rpm (never does this on the road).

3. Even tho the EVC is set on high at 18.1 psi, it never gets there, max I have seen is 17.2 psi, why would this be?

Any other comments are welcomed!

Dyno1.pdf

dyno2.pdf

thanks peoples

[Guilt-Toy]

the spring in your wastegate is not strong enough to hold the pressure. upgrade the actuators.

nice setup. tune seems allright as well. how much did that tune cost you ?

[Brockas]

X-speed = Ant Scali.

Should be a damn good tune.

Km/h to rpm for a GTR running std diffs and gearbox:

86 3000

115 4000

135 5000

162 6000

178 7000

210 8000

Edited January 22, 2009 by Brockaz

[R33GTRKid]

GT: it has the HKS heavy duty actuators that came in the GTSS kit, I did not think you could get any more stronger than that. The tune cost me about 4 hours worth of time

[R33GTRKid]

bump anyone else?

[rev210]

The tune is clearly a conservative and safe one.

very nice looking curves.

It's holding boost well.

Answers;

1) as mentioned. The tune takes into account that smashing the motor right to 8,000rpm is not something to encourage on a stock bottom end.

2) Boost is 17psi as you said. What it gets to on the road is always going to vary as the load on the motor will determine boost response, so different gears / up or down a hill and throttle use will effect things.

3) The EVC may be set to 18 psi but, thats a relative number to the boost you actually get and where you get that reading from. If the boost measurement is before or after the intercooler there might be a 0.5 to 1 psi actual difference of pressure in addition to the guages error margins.

I'm sure the car is very fast. Thats what matters.

[Pattygtst]

do you have a copy with revs not km/h?

The actuators could be faulty? Unlikely though

What psi are the actuators?

Edited January 30, 2009 by Pattygtst

[rev210]

With a cam tweak you can get some more power and bring things on sooner if you want. Have some settings you can try.

[R33GTRKid]

I should have said that the top boost line (the one that looks like it is holding 17psi is my hand writing which I used to explain and ask why my boost did not stay there. The true boost starts at 17 ish and then dips to 15 and holds steady, this is the problem I am asking about REV210

[R31Nismoid]

You need to modify the actuators.

You can get them holding over 20psi all the way to 8k. I should be there in a few weeks... without an EBC as well. No need for one

[R33GTRKid]

how do you do that? i thought the heavy duty ones (the same that you buy for 2530's should be able to hold 18psi to redline?

[PSI Parts]

Each actuator has a different spring rate (boost level). They can be from 5psi through to 30psi, which is the pressure that they open at. The aim is to get an actuator closest to the desired boost setting so the EBC has to do as little as possible to gain ultimate response. Some aftermarket actuators you only have to replace the springs, where others are sealed and you have to replace the entire actuator. Let me know if you need to purchase one.

[R33GTRKid]

cheers Ill get xspeed to check out what the HKS ones are rated to and let you know