Weird Noise Found - Engine F**ked

[Adz2332]

Ok heres the parts list

-New Crank

-CP forged pistons

-Eagle Conrods

-Gates racing timing belt

-Tomei sump baffle kit

-Mines rocker cover baffle set

-Genuine Gasket set

-Tomei metal gasket set

- ACL Race Bearings to mains and Rods

Recondition Cylinder head

Bore Hone and face block

Plus Labour to remove engine, strip, reassemble, clearance for bearings, ring gaps etc, refit to vehicle

[Guilt-Toy]

that is a really good engine setup if you do go ahead with it.. you should PM Dirtgarage and get him to quote a engine build for you.. chances are it will be cheaper and will be built by someone who knows RB engines better then.. well everyone

[Adz2332]

another package is.....

* NITTO 4340 billet steel I-beam conrods with ARP 2000 series rod bolts

* JE 2816 aluminium alloy forged piston set with premuim ring sets

* NITTO high volume oil pump

* ACL race series main and rod bearings

* Genuine Nissan full gasket kit

* NITTO drag series dual bore seal metal head gasket

Yer mate, will be putting in a call to Dirt Garge

cheers!

[The Dan]

Ok heres the parts list

-New Crank

-CP forged pistons

-Eagle Conrods

-Gates racing timing belt

-Tomei sump baffle kit

-Mines rocker cover baffle set

-Genuine Gasket set

-Tomei metal gasket set

- ACL Race Bearings to mains and Rods

Recondition Cylinder head

Bore Hone and face block

Plus Labour to remove engine, strip, reassemble, clearance for bearings, ring gaps etc, refit to vehicle

There's a $6500-$7k build right there.

When does the noise occur? What sort of noise? and when you took it there, was it because it had a noise you wanted to be identified?

[Adz2332]

When does the noise occur? - Even on idle now. It was a light tap when accelerating but slowly got worse.

What sort of noise? - Yer light a knocking sound.

when you took it there, was it because it had a noise you wanted to be identified? - Yes thats the reason i went there

Cheers

While were on the subject what turbos would you go with this set up as ill be changing them at the same time? Was looking at some N1s but i guess seeing as the engine will be built it could take a bit more power now?

[bigmikespec]

While were on the subject what turbos would you go with this set up as ill be changing them at the same time? Was looking at some N1s but i guess seeing as the engine will be built it could take a bit more power now?

Sorry to hear the bad news man! All the best in fixing it up.

More power means you need a better driveline and fuel system to support, adds up to more $$$. Considering you are up for $10k already.

[Adz2332]

as thinking around 350kws...

[N1GTR]

Ok, assuming you've got a stocker with exhaust and semi decent intake, here is a rough idea;

Clutch (jap twin plate); $2000

Injectors: around $750 mark second hand or about $1200 new

Fuel pump: 044, CRD sell them for $280. Filter also required, do a search on this subject

FPR: $190

Splitfire coilpacks: $645

Radiator: $300 for a china special, $900 for a jap brand

Radiator hoses: $200 or so, silicon

Hard pipe kit: $600 ish

Proper hose clamps: About $100

FMIC: At least $1000 for jap (not required for 350kw atw, anymore and generally required)

Camshafts: $1200

Cam gears: $300

New turbos: Dash 7 or 5, both about $2500

Dump pipes: Tomei $1000 or so (stock is ok to the high 300kw mark)

Oil pump: N1 $550

Head restrictor: $20

Oil return from head: $100

N1 Water pump: $330ish

Labour: Left arm, right leg and your first born.

[Adz2332]

Clutch (jap twin plate); $2000 - Already have

Injectors: around $750 mark second hand or about $1200 new Already have 700 cc SARDs

Fuel pump: 044, CRD sell them for $280. Filter also required, do a search on this subject

FPR: $190 Already have Nismo Fuel Pump

Splitfire coilpacks: $645 Only Standered ones

Radiator: $300 for a china special, $900 for a jap brand Already have

Radiator hoses: $200 or so, silicon Dont Have

Hard pipe kit: $600 ish Dont have

Proper hose clamps: About $100

FMIC: At least $1000 for jap (not required for 350kw atw, anymore and generally required) Already have Trust

Camshafts: $1200

Cam gears: $300 Already have Tomei

New turbos: Dash 7 or 5, both about $2500 Buying, Thats what i need to know ones for around 350 +

Dump pipes: Tomei $1000 or so (stock is ok to the high 300kw mark) deciding.. looking around tho

Oil pump: N1 $550 All in build

Head restrictor: $20 All in build

Oil return from head: $100 All in build

N1 Water pump: $330ish All in build

Plus have the power fc, profex b 2

[The Dan]

Ok, assuming you've got a stocker with exhaust and semi decent intake, here is a rough idea;

Clutch (jap twin plate); $2000

Injectors: around $750 mark second hand or about $1200 new

Fuel pump: 044, CRD sell them for $280. Filter also required, do a search on this subject

FPR: $190

Splitfire coilpacks: $645

Radiator: $300 for a china special, $900 for a jap brand

Radiator hoses: $80 or so, silicon

Hard pipe kit: $600 ish

Proper hose clamps: About $100

FMIC: At least $1000 for jap (not required for 350kw atw, anymore and generally required)

Cam gears: $300

New turbos: Dash 7 or 5, both about $2200

Dump pipes: Tomei $1000 or so (stock is ok to the high 300kw mark)

Oil pump: N1 $499

Head restrictor: $30

Oil return from head: $150

Water pump: $100ish

Labour - $1700-2200

I fixed a couple of things and added your expected labour charges.

[R31Nismoid]

ok this might be a stupid statement but is it worth me trying to get a crate motor? LIke an N1 ? etc

very stupid

crate motors still have all the inherrant problems that RB26's have... with oil flow, bearings and so on.

Hence really the money put into a proper full build is always better spent in my view.

10k is easy to eat. Once you add in turbos and everything else you'll see it'll be 15k quite easily (mine was around that).

Especially with the dollar not so good, it has added some extra cost to it all.

However dont be hasty and decide to change turbos etc just because, more power you chase the more stuff you'll break later (gearboxes, diffs and so on)

go back to the tuner, blame him for the bearing problem. Besides he should have told you to turn it off quicker and it could have been avoided and its his fault. Make him pay for your new engine and re-tune your new engine too! even though he was at fault for breaking your car.

lol where have i heard that before?

Steve-o - you have a fair few things you 'dont need' neccesarily on there... hard pipe kit and that kinda thing.

The first list posted i also agree (as others have said), around a 7k build and is a good reliable one for 350rwkw.

You can save money even on that as not all the parts in there are required by any means.

Adz - how about you post up a budget, and a overall power aim???

Then people can help you do a few lists and that kinda thing a bit easier if there are some constraints.

[STATUS]

another package is.....

* NITTO 4340 billet steel I-beam conrods with ARP 2000 series rod bolts

* JE 2816 aluminium alloy forged piston set with premuim ring sets

* NITTO high volume oil pump

* ACL race series main and rod bearings

* Genuine Nissan full gasket kit

* NITTO drag series dual bore seal metal head gasket

Yer mate, will be putting in a call to Dirt Garge

cheers!

go the JE over the CP's for sure as for the rest of the list its really up to you. As for rods NItto/spool/ART all the same, used all three in sr's and RB's with no issues, nice and cheap too. I HATE acl race bearings and prefer to use king in all my engines.

Edited January 23, 2009 by URAS

[GTR-32U]

Ok heres the parts list

-New Crank

-CP forged pistons

-Eagle Conrods

-Gates racing timing belt

-Tomei sump baffle kit

-Mines rocker cover baffle set

-Genuine Gasket set

-Tomei metal gasket set

- ACL Race Bearings to mains and Rods

Recondition Cylinder head

Bore Hone and face block

Plus Labour to remove engine, strip, reassemble, clearance for bearings, ring gaps etc, refit to vehicle

Is the new crank 100 % necessary ?

It may be salvageable

[The Dan]

go the JE over the CP's for sure as for the rest of the list its really up to you. As for rods NItto/spool/ART all the same, used all three in sr's and RB's with no issues, nice and cheap too. I HATE acl race bearings and prefer to use king in all my engines.

Any reason for not liking ACL Race series? or is it just a personal preference? And are you referring to the King Alloys?

[GTR1993]

What is the reason for ACL bearing hate? I have used in a few motors with out issue my self.

[shanef]

id be putting a DECENT oil pump on it, tomei at the very least

whilst ur getting the head reco'd, may aswell get them to tickle the ports

u only need 1 gasket set acl kit or if u want to put some boost into it get the tomei kit (for the better head gasket)

match port all the pipes/ports whilst its apart

mahle pistons are still fairly cheap

bite ur nails waiting for the next 3 months to get it back

[Nisswreck]

you will spend 10k with your eyes closed, i just built my 26 and it cost me alot more than that

you could always buy a 2nd hand motor but obviously has the risk of failing

[Adz2332]

Yer thanks guys... Decideong on a way to go at the mo... not going to rush into it. Just getting quotes back etc as we speak.

As for power aim 350kws would be enough... So yer still looking at turbo ideas for that to get it easily.

And as far as budget $10,000 would have to be it... wouldnt want to much more then that. But the closer to the $7000 to $10000 bracket the better!

Its not a race car, drag car etc.. Its just a daily

[R31Nismoid]

Still not totally clear

7k-10k just for the motor? and not including things like turbos and so on?

Or 7-10k in total?

[Nisswreck]

go for the hks gt-ss turbo's they are perfect for a streeter