Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 86
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

No pics yet . Rego'd and definitely roadworthy.

I'm waiting on some money to clear from the bank (check deposit from another car sale... Could take another two days).

Plus another two guys were looking at it for the same reason and they are dead keen. It could still fall through if one of the other blokes gets in first.

Fingers crossed the money will clear and I get there first.

Well I did some digging around on its history. Need some second opinions.

Has a new head on the CA18DET. The old one broke a timing belt and destroyed a pair of valves plus other damage. Has a new head with lower k's than the original head plus a new head gasket.

Has a new diff plus a few other bits and pieces. As I mentioned before it still needs a new front bumper.

This all said the bloke will part with it for $5000.

I'm not so sure now. Seems like it has had a tough life... That also said replacing the CA18 is damn easy (comparatively) and I know of three nice cheap (relatively) replacements off the top of my head.

Would anyone else be put off by the way it lost a timing belt and lost a head?

When the new head went on, did they fix or replace anything else?

What caused the timing belt to go?

Any proof, like receipts for the fix?

I'd certainly look into it more, which you by the sounds of it!

excellent mate, well done, seeme that you are not kidding yourself by thinking it wont cost you more money. dont be too worried about the timing belt issue, it happens, and as long as it was repaired correctly it will be fine, but keep in mind the age and milage of these engines. might be worth a sr20 later on down the track.

Well I am about to buy a manual S13 complete with CA18DET, a tad dirty and in need of a new front bar and some lovin' but mechanically spot on (and all stock bar a pod filter) with coilovers and new DBA gold slotted rotors. Desperately in need of some better tyres though.

In response to some people here. I am not going to be competitive in any way (at least not yet). This is a learning and fun experience.

I am not too fond of go karting no matter how fun it is - I have had a bit to do with go karts in the past. I prefer the full sized car. I don't care if I will be ridiculously slow. To restate what I said earlier I just want to have fun.

The ten thousand is my initial budget - car, basic modifications, etc. I suspect I will see this balloon out to at least double this by the end of the year. Lets not get confused between a someone wanting to build a cheap, fun car to take to club days and someone who wants to be leading the field.

When the new head went on, did they fix or replace anything else?

What caused the timing belt to go?

Any proof, like receipts for the fix?

I'd certainly look into it more, which you by the sounds of it!

The timing belt snapped due to age I believe.

Well it seems the repair was done by a competent mechanic (as in a good mechanic but wouldn't take it to him myself) and included a head gasket and a low kilometre head replete with stock valves, cams, etc.

There is definite proof - it drives very well, blows no smoke, came on boost cleanly with no surges/spikes of any kind.

I don't know it just turns me off having found the car and then finding it has had major problems in the past but what would you expect for a 19 year old car that has probably been driven every day of its life and driven hard?

Its still cheap no matter how I look at it. I am paranoid of bottom end damage though even though it all looks fine. Its just the risk of something being sh!te thats turning me off....

Maybe I should just keep looking around. Maybe I should just buy it and if something screws up stick to my guns and build a strong SR20/CA18/RB20 to replace it.

Sounds like a decent choice you've made their mate. Personally I'd go for an SR, but that's just me.

Have you looked into ex-drift cars? Sometimes you can pick up half decent ones with some work done for not much money, just require a fair bit of tidying up from some dodgy modifications.

Well i am always looking around and if its a CA18DET powered S13 which needs bumper and bodywork and is very std then i would nto be too fussed if you miss it at $5,0000 as i believe you will be able to get better examples for that sort of money

Try finding one in tasmania though. Car prices here are ridiculous sometimes - in particular for imports. :)

If you can find a similar car in similar condition either in the state or in a position to be transported here at low cost (aka spirit of tasmania), let me know!

I haven't parted with any cash yet, still waiting on that cheque to clear, and if something better came up I would give the bloke my apologies and snap that up instead.

my only advice would be try not to build a track/street car. i started out doing that with my skyline and it does not work. no track car is fun on the street, and when it comes time to move on it sad to see what people are willing to pay for it :down:

thats why im keeping mine and focusing more on track time

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
    • Car has been sold and I am now selling leftover parts. Prices are non-negotiable as I will sell to my mechanic if it won't sell here. Prices are firm except for the Random Parts listed at the very bottom. All parts are genuine except for the S-Tune front bumper. Volk Racing TE37SL 19×10.5″ +12 5×114.3 pressed graphite with P-Zero 275 30 19 tyres [USED] $4,500 Wheels are in perfect condition, have been sitting in my garage for the past 6 years. Tyres still have 90% tread, but since they're now old, I would not recommend you drive hard on them. K-Sport Super Sport External Reservoir Coilovers (made to order) [NEW] $2,500 Front spring rate 14kg, Rear spring rate 7.5kg Fork Type. You can read all about it here (https://www.k-sportracing.com/product_detail.php?Key=12). I was going to start tracking the GTR, but never got around to it. Paid $3500 (after USD conversion and taxes). HKS Kansai Service Tower Bar [NEW] $500 Never fitted in the original Japanese box. R34 GTR S-Tune Fibreglass Bumper [NEW] $500 No mesh - No Box - No damage - just dusty. Nitto RB26 Clear Timing Cover [NEW] $50 Couldn't fit RB2630 due to bonnet clearance. HKS Piping Kit Special Type (BNR34) & Apexi Power Intake Air Filter Kit & Password JDM Adapter [USED] $1,000 Missing some rubber hoses and supports, but you get what you see. Nismo NE-1 Weldina Turbo Back Exhaust & Custom 3.5"straight pipe [USED] $1,000 Needs some love, but perfect for those who want to go back to OEM+. Bayside Blue Aluminium Vspec Bonnet/Hood [USED] $700 Came off my GTR. Unfortunately, the tips have been slightly ground down. It will need some repairing. Bride Low Max Super Seat Rails [USED] $350 The price is for both sides. Will post pictures when I get a chance. Random Parts [USED] - negotiable Standard rb26 cams (intake and exhaust) $10 Stock amber front indicators $10 Standard GTR bumper lower side grills $10 Stock amber side indicators $10 Nismo Sports Resetting ECU $50 Water reservoir $10 Stock airbox mouth $10 Stock fuel rail $10 Stock coilovers from R34 GTR Vspec $100 PM me which items you are interested in. I do work 9-5, so I will be responding daily at best. Best time for pick up is after 5 and before 7 on weekdays, or i can work something out on weekends. I will only accept cash or PayID. Pick up only - located Epping NSW area.
    • sensible choice....and all 32s should be in yellow
×
×
  • Create New...