Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Would any one be able to help? My M35 split glass/half hatch in the tailgate won't open. For the avoidance of doubt, the tailgate opens fine. I've just got the car and I've tried squeezing the button under the rear wiper with no luck with the car unlocked with both the key and factory remote.

I have stripped off all of the tailgate lining and have tested:

+ the button under the rear wiper that "pops" the half hatch with a multi-meter (continuity tester) and this button is working fine

+ the actuator that unlocks the half hatch latch by taking it out and running 12V through it and it's working fine (even opened the half hatch by manually pushing the arm connected to the actuator - mechanical components of the half hatch lock are fine)

+ with everything in place and connected I've tested voltage across the wires running to the abovementioned actuator - no pulse is sent to to actuator

+ I've pulled out and checked all the blade fuses I could locate, i.e. the main fuse panel next to the accelerator pedal and the engine bay next to the battery - these are all ok

Except for removing external body panels on the outside of the talegate which I think would expose more of the wiring loom to check for damaged cables or disconnected terminals etc, I'm stumped.

I noticed a control unit in the tailgate that at least runs the automatic back door closer (I could hear relays clicking inside the unit in time with the tailgate opening and closing etc). I wonder if this also controls the half hatch opener? It would be great to swap this out with one from another Stagea that has a working half hatch to eliminate it as a variable.

My guess is what ever "tells" the actuator to open when the button is pushed (only when the car is unlocked) is faulty.

I have also rung the Nissan dealer/service department the previous owner had the car serviced with and was able to extract a bit of info. They had a crack at fixing the issue last year but because they could not get their hands on a workshop manual/wiring diagram to guide them they will need the car for an extended period of time to work through the fault. (Stageas were never sold as new in NZ - you probably already knew that!). I'd rather save my $ and sort it out my self...

You'd be an absolute legend if you could shed some light on this.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253720-m35-half-hatch-problem/
Share on other sites

ok they are setup like this:

rear buttons feed foward to the BCM in the drivers kickpanel. that units takes the buttons in and fires two relays to control the actuators. those relays are usually up top above your left knee. look up there and check the feeds to them. one of them will fire the hatch and the other fires the glass.

they should be neg trigger on the coils.

tear the drivers sill area down and chase the actuator wires to that point. if you find them then the above holds true. they did a few strange things from what I have seen on these things..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd need to check my notes at work Duncan, but I'm pretty sure most of that is purely OBD2 on the display. How quickly is it all able to update? Do you have any internet capability in your workshop with a laptop?
    • Yeah just gonna be near stock runner only want 180kw to 210kw can’t find anything been looking ages looked in to rb25 but money is tight as the moment need the car back on the road 
    • From there it is trickier. Ecutek seems to be one of those closed ecosystems where everyone password protects their tunes which means I either choose a tuner and can't change from them and can't make any changes myself for any reason, or I have to buy the tuning software (about $4k) and then get someone to tune from scratch (which is not simple with all the multi dimensional tables these days). Once you buy about 300 "flash points" per ECU you can get it tuned and add their "RaceROM" function which hacks extra functionality like launch control onto the ECU, and also makes extra data available for logging over CAN Not sure what I'll do there yet; I'm tempted to use one of the overseas shops that does billions of remote tunes of the platform instead of starting from scratch locally, a lot can be done online these days.
    • Can I log IAT eh? Well, can now So next thing was looking at data logging. Not straight forward because none of the motorsport displays have cracked the nissan/inifinti CAN and ECU based displays don't do g logging, lap timing, predictive laps etc.  So, I bought an Ecutek dongle from Tunehouse (Oz distributor). Even without a tune onboard that allows display and logging of about 50 parameters via Android (and presumably iOS) app. Approx 600 for the bluetooth + Usb version That gives me (pretty ugly but) functional dash display on Android And logging of these parameters I'll play around a bit over the break, but at least now I can make sure I have oil pressure when I get to some track testing.  
×
×
  • Create New...