R32 Gts-t Stalling When Coming To A Stop

[Chris-06R]

Hi all,

My car has a problem that has developed over the past few weeks and I cannot figure out what is going on.

The problem is the car stalls after you have pushed the clutch in/gone to neutral as you come to a stop. Its occurs most if the revs are about 1500-2000rpm or more as you push the clutch in, and the needle will just fall way past the idle point, either bouncing off 0 and coming back up, or stalling the car alltogether.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/RP...G-SAG-t408.html

I've checked in the above thread in which people seem to have the same problems, have cleaned my AAC valve, checked to make sure there are no vac leaks, disconnected the aftermarket bov and running standard. The only other thing people seem to suggest is earthing the fuel pump so it runs 100% all the time. I DID get a new walbro intank pump a few months back but the car was fine for several weeks before this problem developed.

After fiddling around with trying to earth the fuel pump as described in the above thread i've had no luck - it seems the earth has to go back to the ECU otherwise the pump will not operate at all, so I'm not sure how to get around this problem.

Does anyone have any ideas what might be going on, or how to rig the pump so it operates all the time (without any major rewiring)?

Thanks for your help.

[Bennett]

So stock bov is back on and installed properly?

Fuel pump is easy, just take the boot trim out are follow the loom leading to the fuel pump. Find the black wire and bolt it directly into a hole in the chassis. Try pick one that already has something else grounded on it.

[Chris-06R]

Yep, stock BOV was still on car, crazy jap that had it before me felt two bovs were better than one.

And i did the fuel pump trick, but earthing the black wire just killed the fuel guage - i think the earth for the pump was white with as green stripe? But earthing that meant the fuel pump would not run at all...

[Bennett]

Shit. so your fuel guage is ok now?

Ill go check the colour of mine...lol

Yeah its definately black. I followed the loom coming from the fuel pump up the side of the boot and tapped into the ground from there.

Edited January 24, 2009 by Bennett

[Mark_McQ]

Hi all,

My car has a problem that has developed over the past few weeks and I cannot figure out what is going on.

The problem is the car stalls after you have pushed the clutch in/gone to neutral as you come to a stop. Its occurs most if the revs are about 1500-2000rpm or more as you push the clutch in, and the needle will just fall way past the idle point, either bouncing off 0 and coming back up, or stalling the car alltogether.

I've been having the same issue too with mine. I find it happens most if you accelerate fairly quick and then have to come to a stop.

Do you also find your idle sometimes is all over the place? One minute it will be at, say, 1k, then it will go up to 2k all by itself.

[Chris-06R]

hmm no, the idle is generally ok, sometimes hunts between 600-1000rpm, but not too bad. Have you tried cleaning out the AAC valve/adjusting the idle. That might help with that problem a bit, but it didn't help for me.

[bish33]

do u hav the stock ecu? i would try resetin it see if that works

[RedDrifter]

I had a similar prob a little while back and it ended up being the battery was low and because I dont drive it much these days the thing wasn't getting charged long enough. After leaving the battery on charge for a few days it solved all my idle issue.

Regardless its worth a go , the batteries in the r32's are quite small.

[dori34]

check the lines going to the charcoal cannister, they could have a leak or the cannister is leaking.

[shotter]

When i accelerate fairly quickly and then have to come to a stop my stalls too. But the idle is fine. I just try to keep the revs up if i accelerate quickly and have to stop.

[slydn32]

mark_mcq i have the same problem with my rb20'd r31 , still havn't found out what it is but its not my daily driver so not to worried, to the best of my thinking its problably my jammed blow-off making it flutter because my mates 180 does something similar with his blocked blow-off.

maybe rb20's are more prone to this because their slightly lower compression, or my ecu not being happy with VLT FLutter noises???

try running just 1 blow-off ??

[Bennett]

Anyone who has no blow off valve or a atmo bov on a rb engine is just asking to get this problem

[Cjmartz2k]

Check to make sure there isn't something stuck in the factory BOV return line. Mine had a coke bottle cap in it to block it off when I bought it!! I have seen that many times here on Okinawa now.

[Chris-06R]

Thanks for the replies all. Unfortunately all I've succeeded in is finding out alot of people have this problem, with no guaranteed solution...

As for some of the suggestions -

-Battery - less than 6 months old, so I can't see it being that.

-Charcoal Cannister - That all looks good, I can't see any probs with leaks or damaged/perished hoses

-Factory BOV return pipe - Thats all good, had that off a while ago and it was clear

This problem really has stumped me - especially due to the fact it gradually got worse without me changing anything. I've checked the air filter etc, also running some injector cleaner through it atm. Have cleaned the plugs for the TPS and CAS, so I'll see if that makes any difference.

I still would like to try and get the fuel pump running so it is earther 100% all the time as bennett has mentioned, but I'm still not sure how i'll go about doing that...

[Chris-06R]

I'm still having this problem... does anyone else have any more suggestions?

I've now checked the CAS and TPS plugs, and have also checked for error codes on the ECU and reset it - still no change.

As the car goes to stall the revs bounce of 0, come up a bit, fall back down to 0, come up a bit more, then seem to recover and get back to idle speed ~700rpm. Dunno if that info helps the diagnosis at all.

[nanook]

I'm still having this problem... does anyone else have any more suggestions?

I've now checked the CAS and TPS plugs, and have also checked for error codes on the ECU and reset it - still no change.

As the car goes to stall the revs bounce of 0, come up a bit, fall back down to 0, come up a bit more, then seem to recover and get back to idle speed ~700rpm. Dunno if that info helps the diagnosis at all.

Hi, Have you tried cleaning your Air Flow Meter or checking for intermittent solder contacts inside it were the connectors go in.

See if you can monitor or log using consult or datascan the maf readings and check whats going on that way.

[RipNGrip]

Hey guys,

I am having similar problems,

r32 gts4 with rb25

- had two bovs - atmo and plumb

currently running stock plump back with flutter when engine is warm... so i assume it has failed (getting replaced)

- checked fuel pump > fine

- new battery and spitfire coils

I think its my aac which is from a rb25 stagea and doesn't really talk to my remapped ecu too well but i have to check the impedence and voltage signals when un i has finished for the semester

maybe check aac valve and its function... and check your AFM

hope this helps... let us know if u solve it too

[pipster11]

check your intake and exhaust manifolds and make sure they are tight

had similar problems with my 32 and it was just a combo of a lot of things

also the cold start valves (on the inlet mani under the throttle body) like playing up too

trace back the val line and block it, then disconnect the plug going to it

also check your tps too, should be .5 ish volts with the t/b closed

[SimpleGTS-T]

Hi all,

My car has a problem that has developed over the past few weeks and I cannot figure out what is going on.

The problem is the car stalls after you have pushed the clutch in/gone to neutral as you come to a stop. Its occurs most if the revs are about 1500-2000rpm or more as you push the clutch in, and the needle will just fall way past the idle point, either bouncing off 0 and coming back up, or stalling the car alltogether.

hey guys, i also have an r32 gtst tht was doing the same thing until i changed my slave cyclinder out.. tht fixed the problem.. ( but.. it may only be the salve cyclinder if ur having problems  getting into gear )..

[skins]

My R33 had that problem when i upped the boost. They blocked off one side of the BOV and plumbed it back into the standard plumbing (where the standard bov vented into) mechanic = me. And that fixed the problem. Now i have a top mounted turbo and they (autotech in toowoomba) have changed the exhaust manifold so i cannot see where it would vent back into standard as before. They have set it up so the bov discharges into the inlet pipe before the turbo. Now it stalls all the time. They told me that i would need a computer upgrade to fix the problem. But it seems to me that if i could plumb it back standard the problem would go away.

Would getting say a haltech x11v2 and installing that would that definetly get rid of the stall?

P.s. Not much help for the original guy who posted it sorry.