Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

First off my car is idling at 1100rpm and i cant seem to lower it.

I've check the idle controller, the screw is all the way in I've adjusted the 6 the butterfly plates. Cant do it with the computer. and there's no air leaks.

What else can i do???

Cheers Tom

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253975-r33-gtr-idle-too-high/
Share on other sites

yeah i just adjusted them. Nah didn't clean them read another thread saying don't clean the plates cause it heaps seal???

Air regulator????

Air regulator...are you sure about the throttles? Did you pull them out and clean them, or just adjust?
I've check the idle controller, the screw is all the way
That could be your problem. You need to disconnect the electrical plug before adjusting the screw to get the idle correct.

(You may need to "unadjust" the butterflies too)

Yeah that's for a RB25. what do you do for a RB26???.

might have another play with it. see how i go.

Pretty much the same thing (but i havent done it myself yet so not 100% sure). The AAC is just under the plenum, held on by 4 small bolts and not too hard to get to IIRC. Here's a plenum off pic showing where it mounts - its the vertical face just to the left of the braided hoses - sorry dont have a pic of the AAC itself.

gallery_15274_3064_206110.jpg

Yeah that's for a RB25. what do you do for a RB26???.

might have another play with it. see how i go.

Yeah it's the same. With the engine running take off the brown plug off the back of the aac valve then screw the adjuster in to lower the idle, then plug it back in, it should then be reset. The other thing is that the idle solenoid does cark it with age.

hi guys,

i pulled off the idle solenoid and cleaned it and reset it and still didnt lower the idle. if i take the brown plug off the solenoid i can control the idle then????

Yeah it's the same. With the engine running take off the brown plug off the back of the aac valve then screw the adjuster in to lower the idle, then plug it back in, it should then be reset. The other thing is that the idle solenoid does cark it with age.

You need to have the idle control unplugged from the ECU, otherwise the ECU just keeps making corrections to the AAC valve position. That defeats the whole purpose of the exercise.

Have you also "unadjusted" the butterflies?

how do you unplugged it from the ECU???

yeh i adjusted them to get the idle down, but it only went higher. so i put it back,

Bad choice of words - should have said 'disconnected'.

Simply disconnect the electrical plug from the AAC valve, that will "unplug" it from the ECU.

Put it all back to "factory" first, then do the necessary adjustments.

Hey tom !

Theres two things you may need to do,they are both quite difficult unless your competent with spanners and common sense.(no disrespect !)

first,if your idle screw is all the way in,it sounds like the spring in the valve may need a bit more tension.Directly underneath the idle valve screw you will see a circular blob of glue,behind that is another screw that tensions the idle valve,you`ll have to chip all that away,then you`ll find either a plastic or brass screw that will screw in to tension the idle valve,plastics ones are a pain so maybe you might want to go for option 2...which is...

Where your 3 throttle linkages meet the throttle cable(bolted on the plenum)remove the three(8mm headed nuts)take the adjustable linkage off the throttle control and pull on them slowly and try to feel any resistance,you should feel a slight resistance as the butterfly breaks from the closed position,repeat the process for the other two(each one controls 2 cylinders).Now if you look where they connect at the bottom of the throttle bodies you`ll see a screw(throttle stop) withanother 8mm headed lock nut,the screw has a philips screwdriver slot so you can unscrew the stop and then use the locknut to secure it.If you can experiment with the first screw(which is the easiest to get to)try unscrewing it and feel the resistance improve.

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shove more foam in it as a minimum if you possibly can. Or steel wool (not the stuff with soap on it!) Baffles / getting the oil out of the air is huge, and should be done at both the cam cover, and the catch can.   I'm about to do a power steering reservoir, and even that needs some thought to make sure air is separated from the oil, to stop evil Cavitation. I'll probably look at doing my own catchcan later on too.
    • I was once told, who it was I'm to old to remember, that the length of the OEM wheels brace supplied with a vehicle is designed long enough for a average person to apply enough torque to do up, and undo the wheel nuts to the specified torque  What a average person is is anyone's guess though, i.e. average fat bastard, average knuckle head, average perfect sized human......like me Unless of course, a tyre shop has ugga dugga'd them up to "torque to yeild/strip" specs, used cross threading as natures lock tight, or a big breaker bar was used to tighten them up to get some nice stretch in the poor old wheel studs Me, I torque wheel nuts to 1 elbow joint click, lower torque settings are based of wrist clicks, higher torque settings are based of shoulder clunks, or total dislocation for anything that requires all of the torques 
    • I think the catch can design is pretty flawed. Evident in the fact that the V2 one moved to a larger top mounted filter which alone would have helped with overflow and reduce restrictions compared with the side filter. I also imagine there was a major improvement to the baffling design. It is worth mentioning that this catch can with the RB20 was never as much of an issue and the high kms RB25 is likely a part of the problem. I have gotten quotes for both a new "Vibrant Gen 3" catch can and to modify this existing ones but that may have to wait until after the track day. I hope the sump/head breathers/drains and cam splash plates will be enough
    • Yep, both. The ratio is 1.8 instead of OEM being 1.7. The rocker bodies are modified with a larger bolt hole and re-threaded with 10mm holes instead of the 8mm YT has stock. Finding out they don't actually fit the stock castings cause a lot of un-impressment by the person in the USA who tapped the new holes for the 'upgraded' YT product. He was very unhappy with them given their previous design did not require 'clearancing'
    • That too, but I think this is why she's put the work into the cam cover baffles. I mean, a catch can should only need to be a catch can, not an oil air separator also. Not to say that putting the effort into having it do a better job of oil-air sep is a waste of time, but doing the sep earlier is always going to make life better. And that should happen now anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...