Wat Oil Pump Should I Use On My Twin Turbo 26/30

[CRD]

120 psi at 3000rpm thats way to much the pump should have two springs in the bottom where the nut is. remove the smaller one and it will drop to about 70 psi at full nosie but you do have to remove the sump

Hey guys. Oil pressure should be your friend! Everyone is different but for us 110 - 120 psi is excellent. Even factory N1 oil pump will run at 110 psi all day (depending on clearances). A dead stock R32 GTR in good cond will run 100+ psi.

anyone used nitto oil pumps in big hp engines??

never heard of nitto

We now use Nitto oil pumps in all our RB engines with excellent results. Price is right too!

[craked]

Hey guys. Oil pressure should be your friend! Everyone is different but for us 110 - 120 psi is excellent. Even factory N1 oil pump will run at 110 psi all day (depending on clearances). A dead stock R32 GTR in good cond will run 100+ psi.

We now use Nitto oil pumps in all our RB engines with excellent results. Price is right too!

im not bagging the pump at all i would recommend it to any one building a seriuos rb it was just 120psi was to high for me

[Waza_GTR]

im not bagging the pump at all i would recommend it to any one building a seriuos rb it was just 120psi was to high for me

I had high pressure and was blowing white smoke out the exhaust. Too much pressure at turbos will drive oil across seals into exhaust.

That was with N1 pump, hitting 110psi at 6k.

Edited March 10, 2009 by Waza_GTR

[CRD]

im not bagging the pump at all i would recommend it to any one building a seriuos rb it was just 120psi was to high for me

No worries cracked! Did not feel you were bagging anything at all.

As long as it does what you want it to do then that's great!

Sounds like a pretty stout car you have there man!

[CRD]

I had high pressure and was blowing white smoke out the exhaust. Too much pressure at turbos will drive oil across seals int exhaust.

That was with N1 pump, hitting 110psi at 6k.

Hey Waza_GTR

Turbos normally have a 0.8 - 1.0mm oil restrictor in them restricting oil flow / pressure through them so this should not have been a drama.

What turbos were they?

[craked]

No worries cracked! Did not feel you were bagging anything at all.

As long as it does what you want it to do then that's great!

Sounds like a pretty stout car you have there man!

thanks man. going to add another 15 to 20 psi and c16 a go race it hopefully run into high to mid nines with a h pattren manual

[CRD]

thanks man. going to add another 15 to 20 psi and c16 a go race it hopefully run into high to mid nines with a h pattren manual

Nice one! Good luck with it!

[Swiper the Fox]

Hey guys. Oil pressure should be your friend! Everyone is different but for us 110 - 120 psi is excellent. Even factory N1 oil pump will run at 110 psi all day (depending on clearances). A dead stock R32 GTR in good cond will run 100+ psi.

We now use Nitto oil pumps in all our RB engines with excellent results. Price is right too!

As above...ive discussed this so called issue with Jim at length. The pump will only will only see 120psi when cold...and then its a maybe depending on bearing clearances used and oil viscosity etc. SR20's run a crack off pressure of 120psi from factory so i dont see it as a drama. As Andrew stated "oil pressure is your friend" especially in RB's another 20psi or so of oil pressure has positives...but no negatives i can think of.

Im using Nitto pumps on builds and they look to the the eye a top quality item that may even be on par if not outdo the Tomei item. No engines running with them yet but will post some results and feedback when it comes available.

[R31Nismoid]

To the eye is one thing - how they hold together with a bit of abuse is another

But then you can get N1 pumps to last if you treat them with respect and dont live on a limiter.

[Adriano]

How much are the nitto pumps?

[craked]

pretty sure they retail for $1390

my problem was standard the rb30 runs 60 psi at full nosie the nitto was running 120psi by 3000rpm even when warm but once i removed the second spring oil persure is 80 psi at full nosie which is what i want. great pump for the price

[Phobic]

who sells the nitto pumps?

[CRD]

You can contact us on 02 9648 4264 or email: [email protected]

[R32 Driver]

How does the Nitto compared to the jap stuff like greddy, jun, tomei, hks?

might be a good inbetween from the N1 to jap gear i guess judging from the price

[CRD]

How does the Nitto compared to the jap stuff like greddy, jun, tomei, hks?

might be a good inbetween from the N1 to jap gear i guess judging from the price

The price might look like it is in between N1 and the jap pumps but from what we have experienced and tested with these pumps, they surpass the jap pumps in gear material quality and strength. The casting on the housing is also much nicer and better quality than the JUN and Greddy pumps too. Great value for money. Others are way overpriced especially at the moment!

[The Alchemist]

i HAVE A r32 gtr WITH AN n1 pump, REBUILT ENGINE 10,000km ago and it eats oil

We have checked on the dyno and the road and found that there is no excessive blow by from the breathers under boost conditions , no oil on vacuum overrun (a good thing) but it has a blue oil haze from the exhuast in direct proportion to how much boost you give it. Its much worse when cold too ie clouds of smoke with only 3 to 4 psi boost but much less once warmed up to operating temp.

Engine has forged pistons.

Breathers are open to the atmo

Turboes are Garrett RollerBearing -5's with the HKS restrictor in the banjos

Compressions are good

engine was run in on the dyno

Head has a 1.2mm restrictor

Sump has tomei baffle kit only.

Have tried several oil viscosities with similar poor results!

I am about to check oil presure with a manual gauge as I am concerned that it may be pushing oil past the piston seals in the turboes? Is this possible?

Where else can oil come from under boost conditions only?????

Help

[The Alchemist]

Checked oil pressure today with a mechanical gauge:

Cold engine: idle 60 psi, 3000rpm and over 95psi

Hot engine: idle 30psi, 5000rpm and over 95psi

Seems ok to me.....

May be the old ring issue as we used the rings that came with the ACL/Ross pistons not genuine GTR rings. That together with high oil pressure when cold and the oil squirters under the pistons may behalf the problem.....as it almost completely clears up when engine is up to temp > ie oil up to temp not just the water up to temp, bout 20 minutes running.

[Phobic]

i now have a nitto pump,

what was the consensus to run the higher oil pressure is fine, or to remove the relief spring and lower the oil pressure.

i have heard that the high oil pressure can errode bearings?

this will be run in a drift car running high revs consistantly

[r33_racer]

10psi per 1k of rpm has always been the rule of thumb. That plus say another 10psi extra is fine, however that is relative to main and bigend clearances, If its a street engine with tight tolerances say 1.5 - 2 thou then the rule is fine. However, race engines with larger clearances (2 thou +) may require more. Also note excessive pressure causes excessive friction on bearings (also in turn heats up the oil), especially those with tighter tolerances, which results in more heat and also robs hp. Oil flow is what is more important, good flow means cooler oil which keeps bearings cooler and oil at a better operating temperature. If everything is right, engine wise, you dont need big pressure...its a good cover up though! I wont even bother going in an explanation how super high pressure only makes the "oil in head, not in sump" issue even worse. Its pretty well self explanatory.

Alot of people have issues with oil bypassing seals in turbos, restrictors or not it happens. At full noise i think a ballbearing turbo only requires about 45psi of oil pressure max, or something along those lines. Its alot less then what your oil pump ends up producing when your in the high rpm range.

[Raysboostin]

10psi per 1k of rpm has always been the rule of thumb. That plus say another 10psi extra is fine, however that is relative to main and bigend clearances, If its a street engine with tight tolerances say 1.5 - 2 thou then the rule is fine. However, race engines with larger clearances (2 thou +) may require more. Also note excessive pressure causes excessive friction on bearings (also in turn heats up the oil), especially those with tighter tolerances, which results in more heat and also robs hp. Oil flow is what is more important, good flow means cooler oil which keeps bearings cooler and oil at a better operating temperature. If everything is right, engine wise, you dont need big pressure...its a good cover up though! I wont even bother going in an explanation how super high pressure only makes the "oil in head, not in sump" issue even worse. Its pretty well self explanatory.

Alot of people have issues with oil bypassing seals in turbos, restrictors or not it happens. At full noise i think a ballbearing turbo only requires about 45psi of oil pressure max, or something along those lines. Its alot less then what your oil pump ends up producing when your in the high rpm range.

sorry to bring up an old thread, but im trying to get my head around the whole oil pressure deal with rbs. i get that the aftermarket pumps may have better quality components, but as r33_racer states theres no need for extra pressure. so why is every1 so keen on really high oil pressure?? i understand for track cars u want all the pressure u can, but im talking street driven and occassional track work. my understanding of the topic is not great but ive ot this far.

the rb twin cams have a big problem with oil return from the head so oil restrictors are used. but how do you know what the restrictor size should be with such various oil pressures?? my understanding is the components of the head require a certain amount of litres/min of oil to prevent wear. does anyone know how much this is?? cos this would be the key factor in working out what size restrictor to use. different pressures will give different amounts of oil through the same restrictors, so can somebody expalin how they came up with the restrictor sizes and at what oil pressure they were used??

so then we look at the requirements of the bottom end. the rb30 bottom end is propably the most used and abused 6cyl engine in this country. there are literally 100s of single cam 30s built over the last decade punching out 8s, 9s, 10s, 11s as well as ridiculus burnouts all running stock rb30 oil pumps. but you dont hear about many if any failures.

so this being the case why such high oil pressure?? wouldnt all this extra pressure thats going to waste just wear out the pump faster???