Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

My airbag light was flashing and I found the solution on the net and it worked first go on my M35.

Turn the ignition to the "on" position. Watch the airbag light closely(it will be on solid) the split second it goes off(beggining to flash) turn the ignition off, count to 5. Turn back to "on" position and do the same another 2 times.

Next time you turn it to "on" position it will blink really slowly(diagnosing) Then switch off. Next time you turn it on it will be solid and then turn off completely.

Much the same as what Iamhe wrote above, that worked for me 6 months ago but a battery replacement last week caused it to flash again. I would say this was caused by a low voltage to the controller. Lucky its an easy fix.

  • 4 months later...

Hi Guys,

my local Repco mechanic couldn't clear my flashing airbag light with his plug in gizmo.

I tried the solution above and it didn't work but did give me a repeating series of flashes which, I assume, helps with the diagnostics.

My airbag light did this after following the procedure above:

9 flashes, pause, 10 flashes, pause, solid for 2-3 secs, longer pause, repeat

Now to find out what that all means.......

need the seat replaced. already done one in a PM35. there is a airbag ram in the base of the seat and the explosive device has died.

its nothing to do with the diagnostic routine you guys are doing and in fact it renders half the system useless when in fault mode. not the sort of thing you want when you smack something at speed.

need the seat replaced. already done one in a PM35. there is a airbag ram in the base of the seat and the explosive device has died.

its nothing to do with the diagnostic routine you guys are doing and in fact it renders half the system useless when in fault mode. not the sort of thing you want when you smack something at speed.

Thanks for the good news. :laugh:

Mine doesn't have the airbags in the seat so I guess its a different problem?

I figure if the reset works for a few weeks or months then its a wiring or connection fault more likely? I'm replacing the seats soon so hopefully Bride has figured out how to get around the problem.

thing is they DO NOT need bags in the seats for this fault. the ram is in the seat base. given that the youngest car (NM35) is 7 yrs and the bags/supporting devices are supposed to be done at 10 yrs most of these cars are either due to be done or about to fail.

  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry to dredge this topic up again, but my light has been flashing since I got the car so I can't be certain if something is just broken or perhaps not connected. (You'll need to hear me out..)

And, before anyone asks, here's what I have done already:

1. Checked all fuses using a multimeter

2. Tried to reset the light by the method mentioned elsewhere in this forum

3. Had my local mechanic try to reset the error codes with his computer thingy (that'll be the technical term I'm sure :starwars: )

BTW, the error codes (as displayed on the computer thingy) are:

B1161 CRD RH (OPEN) and

B1166 CRD LH (OPEN)

A short time Googling these ODB2 codes shows results from Toyota and GM products with a few anomalies.

eg. Toyota list them as: B1161 Inflatable curtain RH open circuit (84?) & B1166 Inflatable curtain LH open circuit (88?) which sounds a lot closer than GM's "B1161 = Lamp circuit failure".

Since I don't have curtain airbags, I started looking under the seats for signs of seatbelt pretensioners having been activated etc and was greeted with this (see pic):

Now I've read that yellow connectors are typically associate with airbag circuits, so could this be the "open circuit" referred to in the ODB2 error codes?

I also found a picture of under Bis-e Bee's front seat (thanks mate) and it confirms the yellow plug is connected (see other pic).

But.... my car doesn't appear to have anywhere to plug in the free connector.

Any ideas anyone?

post-76144-1283499792_thumb.jpg

post-76144-1283500111_thumb.jpg

yep yours has the same issue as most. the anti subarmine rams are gone. new seat time (x2) for you.

Is this the only option?

Any idea of the cost (they are the leather seats)?

If what you say is true and, depending on the cost, we may be waiting a while to get you to do the cruise/english conversion we spoke about the other day.....

Cheers.

Also Chris, what is the go with those connectors of mine under the seats that aren't plugged in, and look to have no where to be plugged in?

Do they have no bearing on any of this?

Can Nissan really design a car that needs the seats replaced when an airbag component fails?

My X-Trail is about the same age as the Stagea & it's never had any airbag warning lights active. Is that just a matter of time too?

All these unanswered questions.....

come for a drive through the week (call first.) and I'll take a squiz. thing that gets me though . how did it gt complied with that light on and even more so how did it get registered. that is a sizeable defect that should not have been allowed through IMO.

If what you say is true and, depending on the cost, we may be waiting a while to get you to do the cruise/english conversion we spoke about the other day.....

Cheers.

Chook on the forum is the one who can help you with the language conversion in QLD now..

Good luck sorting out the airbag light.

Cheers

Andy

come for a drive through the week (call first.) and I'll take a squiz. thing that gets me though . how did it gt complied with that light on and even more so how did it get registered. that is a sizeable defect that should not have been allowed through IMO.

I'm about 2hrs away so won't be able to drop in this week, but if I'm no closer to sorting it out when I visit for the other work I'd appreciate your input.

I think I'll explore some manuals/wiring diagrams to see what I can learn.

Re compliance/registration - I'm not sure how long the fault has been around but can only guess it happened after those things (but before I got it) as I can't see how it could have passed.

Possibly the importer reset the system so that it wasn't flashing during the "important" steps of compliancing etc.

Mine started to flash again, reset it Thursday night and then on my way to work Friday morning, hit boost and it went off again.

Reset it last night so hopefully it won't happen again for a few months, really hoping it doesn't become a too frequent event.

My error code was the same as Scott's (from memory) something about RHS Cord or something.

Possibly the importer reset the system so that it wasn't flashing during the "important" steps of compliancing etc.

Mine started to flash again, reset it Thursday night and then on my way to work Friday morning, hit boost and it went off again.

Reset it last night so hopefully it won't happen again for a few months, really hoping it doesn't become a too frequent event.

My error code was the same as Scott's (from memory) something about RHS Cord or something.

You may be right but hard to tell since the guy we bought it from isn't saying too much. All I know now is that it can't be reset via the "proper" ODB2 gadget at the workshop nor have I been successful with the DIY method.

I hope you don't have continuous problems with yours as it wears thin real quick. Interesting issue with yours re. it being related to the boost. I wonder what the connection could be there...

I think when I find out what these unplugged yellow connectors are for I'll be a whole lot closer to solving it.

the 4hour drive will answer your questions you know. there is really no point posting it here when no one has the correct tools to fix the thing and further to that I know what I'm looking for when I see the car. most are going to tell you to go nuts with the door swtich which in your case is not going to help.

as it sits now with your car: SRS system offline therefore car unroadworthy therefore its NOT insured if you smack something.

bisebee,

yours is a similar issue. seat ram is farked. common on the V series cars from 2001-2004.

Chook on the forum is the one who can help you with the language conversion in QLD now..

Good luck sorting out the airbag light.

Cheers

Andy

he's already involved in this one:)

the 4hour drive will answer your questions you know. there is really no point posting it here when no one has the correct tools to fix the thing and further to that I know what I'm looking for when I see the car. most are going to tell you to go nuts with the door swtich which in your case is not going to help.

Hi Chris, I'll give a call to tee up a time as soon as I can get half a day free. Could be a week or two though.

Thanks for your help.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's about the same time for me from Bunnings, or the Fasteners. My big push away from takeaway food, and gluten in general keeps me away from the Bunnings Snags too! Weather up here, I've been out for two walks today in the beautiful sunshine. Had a few little drizzles, and some wind, that honestly, a tin of beans and I could compete on how harsh she blows Thankfully, being this bit inland, we're not getting anything much really. Will probably pick up a bit more when/if Cyclone Alfie decides to come ashore. A few areas in the GC though, and south into NSW are really getting smashed though! Right now, I'm just annoyed Alfie hasn't hit, as I'm not allowed to crack into the BBQ foods like the bacon and eggs until the Cyclone hits "In case we lose power"...
    • I love fastener joints, the price difference between them and joints like Bunnings or Super Cheap is amazing, and they either have exactly what you want, or they can get it to quick They have even given me some for free when I only needed a couple of specific size In saying this, I have paid premium for fasteners from Bunnings if they have the sizes I need, but only for convenience really, as my local is only 10 minutes away, the Sushi joint near them is also a consideration  How's the weather Matt? Stay safe mate
    • Wideband is worth setting up if only for tuning purposes. I would not mess with the ignition system unless there's a misfire. HKS crank trigger is popular out here for the relatively easily sourced Denso crank sensor, not a bad idea to install as well regardless of power level on a standalone. Boost leak test is worth thinking about. Oil pressure sensor tied to a fuel cut isn't a bad idea either. Getting the tune figured out is a good idea. Without putting eyes on it and getting under it there's no way for us to tell you exactly what it needs but most likely you're down to the last 10% that will make a big, big difference in how happy you are with the car.
    • Doing a refresh of my 33 and can see a few websites stating they sell the entire main carpet for our cars, but they all have generic photos which is fine, i understand they are custom made to order.  Just seeing if anyone has got it done or had any experience with this, as i would only want to do it if the fit and finish was as good as oem https://carmatsdirect.com.au/products/moulded-carpet-or-vinyl-for-nissan-skyline-r33-1993-1998-coupe https://knoxautocarpets.com.au/moulded-carpets/nissan/skyline/skyline-r-33-1993-1998/
    • Any plans for E85? If so, add flex fuel sensor.   I'd probably add in the sensors I mentioned above if the Link will support using them for engine protection. With water pressure, you need to be able to effectively set it that "If temp > X, and pressure = atmospheric, shutdown" as at running temp, you should be able to read pressure in the cooling system. If pressure suddenly disappears, it means the water went some where, and this is a quicker reaction than waiting on water temp to go up (Which, can take a little longer than you'd like, considering it now has to wait for hot air to heat it up) Oil pressure, Oil temp, both would be on my list too if you're looking to add sensors. Wideband O2. And at least one EGT sensor. If you're feeling deluxe, put in individual runner EGTs. Single EGT sensor is more so forget about a specific number, get used to "What is normal EGTs", and then keep an eye on it, if it starts going away from "normal" it's a sign something is wrong (Also, things like the tune can still start going out of spec, but EGTs may not show it, for example one injector starts running leaning, so ECU richens everything up, now 5 out of 6 cylinders are rich, and running cool, with one cylinder lean and running hotter, so it's not perfect) Then there is your other things to look at non sensor related, but you may have already done, or have underway, and that would be things like building a sump for more oil, and better oil control under high G-Forces (Cornering, brakes, acceleration). Basically, the above is worth looking/thinking about, if the ECU can do protective stuff with it, and you continue to use it how you are (Drive it to the track, thrash it, drive home, repeat once every 3 to 4 months)
×
×
  • Create New...