Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

I own a 2003 M35 AXIS and have the following queries.

First;

is the car a 4wd?

the 4wd light comes on sometimes and most of the time is off? why is this?

2nd;

i had a bloke come out to instal an alarm on the vehicle. He advised the dirvers door has no lock/ unlock motor. meaning when the alarm is activated or deactivated it will open or close all the doors bar the drivers door. After pulling the driver door trim off he to advised it was activated via a wire which looked like it was from factory and that it didnt seem like a motor once existed in the door before?

thanks for those who take the time to reply.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254071-awd-driver-door-motor-enquiry/
Share on other sites

Hi guys

I own a 2003 M35 AXIS and have the following queries.

First;

is the car a 4wd?

the 4wd light comes on sometimes and most of the time is off? why is this?

2nd;

i had a bloke come out to instal an alarm on the vehicle. He advised the dirvers door has no lock/ unlock motor. meaning when the alarm is activated or deactivated it will open or close all the doors bar the drivers door. After pulling the driver door trim off he to advised it was activated via a wire which looked like it was from factory and that it didnt seem like a motor once existed in the door before?

thanks for those who take the time to reply.

Google "Attessa" to learn about the AWD. It is a computer controlled system. Normally the rear wheels only are driven but when the computer senses that they are losing traction it will transfer as much as necessary drive to the front wheels up to a maximum of 50/50.

Don't know about your car but mine has power locking on all doors. This model (series I ) came out with a remote locking key which operates all doors and the tailgate. Hard to imagine yours didn't have all door locking from new.

Find your way around this website - there is a wealth of information for the discerning Stagea owner!

Hi guys

I own a 2003 M35 AXIS and have the following queries.

First;

is the car a 4wd?

the 4wd light comes on sometimes and most of the time is off? why is this?

2nd;

i had a bloke come out to instal an alarm on the vehicle. He advised the dirvers door has no lock/ unlock motor. meaning when the alarm is activated or deactivated it will open or close all the doors bar the drivers door. After pulling the driver door trim off he to advised it was activated via a wire which looked like it was from factory and that it didnt seem like a motor once existed in the door before?

thanks for those who take the time to reply.

Hi Fred,

Congrats on the new car.

Yes, it is 4WD. Mostly rear wheel until slip is detected and then drive is sent to the front wheels.

There is a switch to to right of the gear shift that has "synchro" (this sends equal power to front and rear up to 40km/h) and "snow" (same as syncro plus you start in 2nd gear and the boost is reduced unitil over 40km/h). The snow really works on icy roads.

Not sure why your light is coming on. This may mean a faulty sensor.

I think I know why he said there is no motor in the drivers door but has is wrong. If you use the door lock function above the window controls on the drivers door, it will not lock the drivers door. Don't know why but that is standard. If you look at your key, you will see you have remote locking from the key, which means there has to be a motor in there to work.

Also I have an alarm fitted to my car and no problem having the doors lock off the remote.

Sorry to say, you need to find an alarm fitter who is familiar with these cars.

Cheers

Andy

my 4WD light comes on too sometimes. if i turn the car off and turn it back on again it goes away. cant make it happen for the dealer tho!!

anyway, check the atessa fluid level in the back. AFAIK its on the RHS behind the rear wheel.

...

I think I know why he said there is no motor in the drivers door but has is wrong. If you use the door lock function above the window controls on the drivers door, it will not lock the drivers door. Don't know why but that is standard. If you look at your key, you will see you have remote locking from the key, which means there has to be a motor in there to work.

Also I have an alarm fitted to my car and no problem having the doors lock off the remote.

Sorry to say, you need to find an alarm fitter who is familiar with these cars.

...

exactly. With a S2 it is the same thing; there is a separate locking circuit and a separate power window circuit for the driver. ie. one locking circuit for the driver, and another for the other 3 doors. The box which controls *all 4* in a S2 is located on the passenger side, under the dash. You have to pull the whole glovebox out to get to it. It's right up in there. As for M35; I don't know sorry. But there is definitely an actuator in the driver's door, be it solenoid or servo, if the door unlocks then it is there. What your installer can't find is *the connection*. For which you need some sort of wiring diagram... for the S2 the R34 workshop manual was very useful for me as it is probably 95% the same as S2 stagea. Maybe you can get hold of a V35 diagram or whatever the M35 equivalent is... if there is one?

We (I) could be wrong about this. I had an alarm guy around today and he said that some Stageas do not have solenoids for the driver's door lock. It is possible that the remote locking was an option and that if you don't have it the drivers door has no solenoid (only a switch for operating the other 3 doors and tailgate). I can't check becasue i have sold my driver's door but I'm getting another Stagea next month and I'll have a good look.

the installer doesnt know these cars. they DO have an acutator in that door. its isolated from the rest. I generally rewire the that door to the rest and trip the OE BCM module with the alarms neg triggers. regardless or not if the car has keyless entry as standard.

on a slight tangent. the N16 pulsar was sold with and without keyless. the only change they made was the control box for the locking.same with these.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...