Jump to content
SAU Community

Odd Brake Set Up

Hesh

By Hesh,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Hesh Collaborator

Hesh

Posted
Posted (edited)

hi guys, haven't been on here for while but something has come up that you guys my be able to shed light on.

during some research on non turbo models i've come across a variant of the r33 gts that has vented discs on the rear. 266mm by 18mm. to date i believe this model to be named the gts urban liner s (might have a different name in different areas) its an auto (at least the one i know of is) and has the rb20e engine.

anyone ever come across these rear discs before? and more importantly had to source replacements? after much searching replacements for vented rears at this size with integral drum brake are rarer than a Scotsman buying a round of drinks!

any and all help and suggestions would be great.

si

Edited by Hesh
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254120-odd-brake-set-up/
Share on other sites
N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

My R34 25GT Sedan had 265mm Rear Discs with single pot calipers...not sure if that really helps you much though :D It was a pain to get any decent discs for them as well, I ended up upgrading the whole brake set up in the end. I was only able to get 265mm in plain non-slotted items. I'm wondering if it's the same brakes that were used on the R34 Sedan.

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

Yeah, both front and rear ventilated, front were 280mm 2 pot caliper, the rear were 265mm 1 pot caliper.

These were the front 280mm that I had removed:

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i229/l33...C00765Large.jpg

And these are the rear 265mm ones:

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i229/l33...C00766Large.jpg

The front calipers:

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i229/l33...C00768Large.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i229/l33...C00769Large.jpg

The Rear Calipers:

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i229/l33...C00770Large.jpg

Not sure if visually they are the same? Wouldn't suprise me if Nissan used them on more than one model Skyline, and if it's a RB20E than it's hardly going to need the bigger brakes in its stock form (after all these came of a RB25DE R34 Sedan).

If they are the same, then don't expect to find many aftermarket listings for the rear brakes. My local brake shop told me they could get them in plain RDA discs. Getting anything better than that seemed near impossible, and with a turbo conversion on the way I just upgraded them, and saved the hassle for future replacement parts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...