Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Vs Xr6 Turbo

suburban drifter
 Share

Recommended Posts

Scottydoo Community Regular

Scottydoo

Posted
Posted

Here's a crazy thought, you could just go to the drags and race him :)

There'd probably not be as much in it as you'd think i'd say. The weight difference would help the r33 alot. But so many variables its hard to guess

blitzxtr Community Regular

blitzxtr

Posted
Posted

[quote name='Crans' date='28 Jan 2009, 10:21 AM' post='43926 They are awesome cars with one of the best engines ever built

Your kidding right they are not the goods & know people blowing them up there rods arent the best there chinese specials at $60 a pop

Trust me there not what there made out to be due poor cheap engine internals.

Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted

There was a complete test done in serious performance 7 dvd i think.

power wise the xr6 was much better but on the track the race drivers chose the r34 gtt (same thing as r33 gts-t) hands down.

Must be manual though with minor mods and suspension work.

The bigger and heavier xr6 will always be a family car pudding of a thing.

bozodos Grand Master

bozodos

Posted
Posted

is the skyline turbo? :(

depends if it was built to be a drag car etc etc, XR6T are fairly quick, theres a Typhoon around here with 300rwkw which can just beat a mates HR31 Passage with a NEO and a HKS 2540 hanging off it - thats running the original Stagea computer and 14psi. Traction would probably be the main issue I guess?

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted
just out of interest how far behind do you think a 300kw xr6 auto would leave a 300 hp auto r33 in the dust.just got a bit of a wager going, got a mate who reconds 60 meters over the 400 .what ya recon

The XR6 turbo is measured in kW's and you measured your car in HP..?

XR6 T = 300kW (402HP)

Weight (Approx 1723kg)

R33 GTS-T = 223kW (300HP)

Weight (Approx 1500kg)

You decided LOL! :(

GTR-32U Mentor

GTR-32U

Posted
Posted (edited)

Give him a run and see how well you go I say. Drop your rear tyre pressures slightly and practice a good spool up launch technique. You may surprise yourself.More so if he stuffs the take off and you nail a good jump on him. It wouldnt be the first time a car which was inferior on paper won the race-and it wont be the last.

Give your car a bit of a service..clean out air filter, oil change, check plug gaps etc...all may sound stupid but it does help..Just a shame you cant up the boost just a little bit

Heck on one of my old cars i had a bag of ice sitting on my Supercharger while I was waiting for the guy..helped too !

Edited by GTR-32U
Crans Mentor

Crans

Posted
Posted
[quote name='Crans' date='28 Jan 2009, 10:21 AM' post='43926 They are awesome cars with one of the best engines ever built

Your kidding right they are not the goods & know people blowing them up there rods arent the best there chinese specials at $60 a pop

Trust me there not what there made out to be due poor cheap engine internals.

Stock engine from 02 to 06 would handle just over 300rwkw without any work (Valve springs may need upgrade)

From 06 all engine internal were the same as the F6 Handling well over 300rwkw.

RB26 stock die when pushed over 300rwkw so are you saying they uses cheap crap parts aswell??

Baz Experienced

Baz

Posted
Posted

There is one point that everyone is forgetting.

The XR6 turbo produces a lot more torque than the R33 would at the same horsepower figures due to the fact it has a 1.5L advantage over the RB25. The dyno graphs of a 300kw Rb25 vs a XR6T 300kw would be very different.

Horsepower figures don't mean jack if you haven't got the torque or the bottom end power to get it moving.

Depending on grip available and choice of transmission the XR6T would almost always win hands down.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R32GTR R200 reverting from Nismo centre to stock

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Factory LSD is supposedly a 2 way with a very conservative cam. If you've already tried adding friction modifier to the diff oil and it still locks up too much for your liking you might want to adjust the ramp rate on the cam to be more like OEM instead of reducing initial torque even further. People claim the 8 kgf-m disc kit for the OEM LSD is still very streetable but I've never been able to compare everything side by side on my own.
    • Ozdavroz
      NC MX5

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      Oh man, at least it sounds they've accepted they stuffed up and not put it back on you...could see some confusion if they asked if it had a hardtop or not, and you've answered truthfully but maybe not answering their real question which is what roof did it have from the factory! Glad your keeping it N/A 2.5
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Nah, I much prefer colour matched Talking about colour matching stuff, the new/used boot lid turned up, all painted up perfectly......aaaannnndddd, it's for a power retractable hard top, not a soft top.....LOL They are now sending a boot to fit a soft top.....,  whilst frustrating, life is like that sometimes, sometimes you just need to dodge, duck, dip, dive and, ummm, dodge.
    • Ozdavroz
      NC MX5

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      You would need to paint your hardtop again though
    • djr81
      R32GTR R200 reverting from Nismo centre to stock

      By djr81 · Posted

      I have an old R32 in the shed that hasnt moved much in the last few years and probably should see the light of day. At one point I had a Nismo 1.5 centre put in the rear diff. It is a clunky nightmare POS of a thing on a good day. To make it less painful the initial torque setting has been put on the minimum (7.0kgf-m, mid is 9.5, high is 14) and the oil changed out to something more slippery. But it is still awful and ruins the vibe of the thing. So my questions are: Given I have the original parts sitting in a box somewhere would it be better to rebuild the thing again, reverting to more purity? Is there a standard kit or do you just go and replace the friction plates etc and shim it the way you like it. How much initial torque does the standard R32 rear diff have? Or does the Nismo disc kit offer a better solution - the caveat being the initial torque for both options appears to be higher than the clunky 1.5 way. There appear to be two Nismo disc kits: 3843S-RS520 for 8kgf-m. 3843S-RS521 for 12kgf-m. Or is the easiest solution to reshim the Nismo diff to make it looser?
×
×
  • Create New...