Alarms

[chef_stagea]

jw what you guys use/ recomend

i understand you might not want to disclose that info... if so dont post... want it a clean thread

im gna get sumthing pretty out there in the 260

any reccomendations? ive used autowatch b4 and am quite impressed!

[rhys5169]

just make sure what ever alarm you purchase it is australian standard, alot of the pretty ones at JB's etc are not aus approved, and therfor alot of if not all (?) insurers will not cover you in the event of a claim

[scandyflick]

just head to auto perfection/installer of choice, grab a decent aus standards alarm and have it backed up with a few hidden killswitches that automatically become active when the engine shuts down.

... and get a bit f**k off club lock.

[SLED]

goodluck Adam, but I don't think you're gonna get too many peeps revealing what alarms they've got

so your thread is pretty much doomed before it even starts

we'll give it a go and see how it fairs

[Nightcrawler]

and what's more if you do a search you will find this topic has been covered dozens of times before in various guises.

[Tangles]

I just went off ebay, black wired to aus standards for insurance purposes etc, any alarm like this will do to be honest

if they want your car bad enough they'll have it.......

[SkyHi_33]

consider a gps tracker, retail around $350 and all you need is a sim card that sms's you if the car has:

1. moved from your pre-set perimeter

2. alarm gone off

3. engine been started

+ lots more

and best of all in case its on the move while you're sitting at your office desk, it sends you the cars current global position + speed etc...

on top of all that it makes the job of recovering a car easy as for the 5.0

[cruzin33]

make sure you add a steering wheel lock aswell

[Hotwire]

Adam:

Go see Ric at Auto Perfection. He fitted an Aust Standards alarm to my legnum that has been great so far. Never had false alarm, but has been set off (unintentially) so I know it works too. Also, tell him your from SAU and you'll get discount too thanks to Steve (Madaz)

[chef_stagea]

yep... thanx to sled and nightcrawler for letting me go it was just intended to see whats out there not a i have this kinda thing.... any one had problems with auto watch, viper, cheater all of those kinda people?

im after sumthing with a few imobeliser points

seperate control buttons as ive got a nismo key so if i lost the orig key id b stuffed

i have a gps tracker elsware

turbo timers are bling... but seriously r they worth the $

paging hand peice would be kool but DO THEY WORK LIKE THEY SAY???

[rad100]

ive had a viper and its been great,

i now have a upgraded viper ready to be installed..

so ill c how it goes..

[Dohmar]

yep... thanx to sled and nightcrawler for letting me go it was just intended to see whats out there not a i have this kinda thing.... any one had problems with auto watch, viper, cheater all of those kinda people?

im after sumthing with a few imobeliser points

seperate control buttons as ive got a nismo key so if i lost the orig key id b stuffed

i have a gps tracker elsware

turbo timers are bling... but seriously r they worth the $

paging hand peice would be kool but DO THEY WORK LIKE THEY SAY???

turbo timers are only useful for people who really boost heaps... think mallala.... most of the time 30 seconds cooldown is all you need and that you can do while collecting your wallet, getting out of the car etc...

-D

[shy_s6]

GT Autosound is where i go, wouldnt go anywhere else!

[Damo_R34]

i use and recommend Ric from auto perfection.

[CRoNic...]

+1 to GT Autosound.

And yeah, wouldn't bother with a turbo timer... just search Turbo Timer on SAU and you'll get the same answer.

I quote from the Nissan Skyline owners Manual: "If you've been driving for a extended period over 80kmph, when you reach your destination, let your engine idle in neutral for 15 - 30 seconds".

Meaning, if you've been flogging your car and testing to see if you can actually reach that 320km/h mark on your Nismo speedo, let your car cool down after!

[SLED]

no probs Adam....seems to be going well so far

here's one thing though....please nobody post the short comings of any particular brand, that may give clues on how to get around that particular system.......that will be the doom of this thread.

[CRoNic...]

Adam, generally speaking:

Paging System-styled alarms - Work well in a close radius. Won't work well 'deep' indoors or over long distances. Meaning, you'll receive the signal/notification when you get back into range. Good feature to have, though.

Just make sure you get a Aussie-standard alarm system with all the usual goods. And get it installed properly the first time.

And, don't be stupid and stick up "This car is protected by xxxxx alarm system" stickers on your car window!! You'd be amazed by the sheer amount of cars that have this! It's basically advertising what alarm you have installed, making it alot easier for people! Example: "Oh, he has xxxx alarm installed... that means I can do this xxxxxxx to get in!"

[Carbon 34]

Myself and jack 88 can speak of alarms and audio, I owned/worked in a auto audio and alarm shop/home theatre in USA for 15 years and hold a master installer certificate in auto electronics. as well as Aviation advance electronics

I can say , stay away form the cheap alarms(ebay specials, not covered by warranties ), stay with something from Direct electronics , Clifford, or one of the local major brands , makes sure the connections are soldered , no other connections are acceptable, black taped into the harness to look factory.and properly fused, and power from multiple sources. , pin switch on the bonnet, boot, back up battery , a GPS if you can afford it? or a paging alarm , the new ones work for a few K away, even in stores at the mall, depending on the metal and antenna placement. the alarm LED needs to be seen BEFORE the window gets broken?

a field sensor is good if setup right? of course a shock sensor that is setup and tested on install, then a few weeks later after the wires settle in, a free check up is a must. the sensors shock sensitivity changes sometimes so make sure its free to reset a week or so down the track.

crims setoff your alarm over and over until you get sick of it and shut off the alarm completely. so dont fall for it!!!!

a 3 point system is recommended, but no matter what brand you get, its only as good as the install, and must be used everytime you stop, even in front of your house for 2 seconds. and even a shit club lock on top of the alarms delays and deters the thief to move on to other cars.

the fuctions you get added , like windows, door locks, timers, sunroof etc can rack up the install cost fast, so be warned. the timers are defectable if hooked up. so dont place the sticker it comes with on the car , it alerts the cops to the turbo timer. besides just sit in the car for 30 seconds instead.

you might think too much security is a pain but when you come out to a empty car park,,,, you will change your tune? or a pile of broken glass ???

prices range a lot in town and people do haggle on items like this. so HAGGLE!! I cant recommend a shop , maybe GT autosound or MOB because I install all my own stuff .

and two remotes are a bonus, cause if you loose or destroy one, they can be expensive to get one afterwards. some 200ea.

they must come with a lifetime warranty on install and electronics, no extra gimmick charges for that either. a good installer has no worries about it working for life of the car ownership.and proud of his or her work to let you see the process on another car. alarm just tossed behind the dash take seconds to bypass, make sure its mounted well out of sight and secure. the siren needs to be near the firewall, not near the cooling fans. no wires should be visible at all???

and if you fidle with the wires it wil void the warranty they can tell it you have !!! dont do it!!

alarms are about DETERING the thief BEFORE break ins, and then about using as many ways possible to stop a crim if they break in.

understand a professional car thief will get your car no matter what you do to stop them, if they want it,,, its gone. a GPS is the only hope if used the second it detects the car is stolen.

good thing most arent pro's , most just want a thrash and burn,(joy ride) or strip your parts off and dump the rest.

and dont expect a alarm to stop someone from breaking your window out if you leave items in plain view, the temptation is too great for crims.

and the sticker they come with are a mixed bag, if you buy a good alarm advertising it will stop crims, but average ones dont bother it says steal me Im easy target. I have never seen a car with brand stickers broken into unless it has stuff out in the open , a cheap alarm, or the alarm wasn't on. which by the way voids your car insurance payout too. but know of surveys with crim , they will steer clear of cars showing a serious alarm setup.

my two cents , feel free to ask away

Edited January 28, 2009 by sapphiregraphics

[Damo_R34]

my alarm has a red led that doesnt flash very bright, even at night. any way i can run a bright secondary light to the corner of the windscreen?

[Carbon 34]

my alarm has a red led that doesnt flash very bright, even at night. any way i can run a bright secondary light to the corner of the windscreen?

yes very easy to do, but watch out the load on the alarm brain cant be exceeded or it will fry.

the current load will increase by 2 and most LED will be duller then, so you need to have it done properly. also some LED lights have a narrow field of view so watch out for that too..?

you can also buy a better LED, or change colours, or scanners or just about anything you can imagine. a 555 timer(silicone chip) will run multiple lights on the Brain power output. for a few bucks, a good look is to mount them on the A pillars on both sides, or on cars with door locks showing , drill them and place the led in the outside layer of lock pin, or even in outer door handles near lock covers or mirror pods. just takes time to do . not expensive. but extreme care has to be used.

a new brighter LED is under 5 bucks , takes a few min to install. but check the power output, a resistor is needed on most LED setups. output voltage varies, from 2-12 volts output. and a 1 amp fuse is a worthwhile investment on the line to LED's just in case it shorts out

Edited January 28, 2009 by sapphiregraphics