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hey guys have been running the car with the current tune for about 3 months now and have noticed (since the tune but never really looked into it until now) every now and then under full load on full boost on 3rd or 4th id get engine light flash and the knock would read to somewhere as low as 60 to as high as 120. haven't seen it go higher.

now this dosnt happen all the time for example today while entering the freeway dropped it to 3rd gave it a boot and it was fine. later tonight did the same and engine light flashed and recorded knock to 90. was driving home just an hour ago gave it the boot and nothing all was normal. at times it would flash 3-4 times in a row at times it wouldnt even flash.

i remember reading somewhere that knock sensors can hit a high with normal road conditions then being run on the roller as it picks up vibrations. is that true? i know the best thing to do is take it to the tuners obviously they will look into and correct it but there's not much that i can do or check on the PFC can i?

ta

Ash

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I have the exact same thing in my R33, with PFC, other mods and 205rwkw. Same thing under hard load in 3rd or 4th gear between 5000 and up revs the engine light flashes. Does not seem to lose power. Does not happen all the time either.

Thanks for the help R31Nismoid

that is the power fc's way of telling you that the engine is destroying itself. Expensive flashing light.. too bad it cannot be smart enough to retard the timing to stop the engine from destroying itself.

Its nothing critical, and its not totally destroying itself, not with a knock of 60 or so once in a while anyway.

Just a couple of wayward cells so get it fixed when your next taking the car to your tuner/mech or whatever and don't deliberately bring on the knock :(

Although yours does sound a bit worse than the OP... meaning your tune is probably extremely average

Thanks again Nismoid

Tune was done by CRD, I told them exactly how i drive the car, including a few tracks days a year, etc etc. I thought they would have taken that into account.

Will let them know it needs a re-tune.

IN the meantime i will make sure i dont make it happen on purpose.

CHEERS :(

the apexi documentation clearly states that the owner / workshop needs to view the tune and conditions to correct knocking issues

its not that they couldn't code in a function to back out timing, its because they didnt want to - ie; its a blanket braindead approach

or so the legend goes...

Here's what I do.

Get out a spreadsheet, and make 20x20 cells. Mark the top row RPM, the verticle column Load.

Go into your injector and ignition maps and log each and every cell.

Then do a MAP trace and figure out where you are on that 20x20 grid at 5000 rpm at full load.

Around that area, pull a degree out of the timing and see how you go.

Making a note of the settings if V.handy for when you want to play.

I've got maps of all my tunes from RacePace and just recently was able to reset my settings to my Pre V-Power Racing tune without having to touch a Dyno.

Very handy indeed.

You can also then make pretty graphs and things to see how your tune woks and, like me, you might just learn a bit about it.

So i should take my car back to get retuned ASAP then???

Thanks for the info Guilt Toy

how much did you pay for this tune ? i bet they will charge you to fix it too? Croydon lock power fc's. everyone i have unlocked has needed a full re-tune so he will have to take it back to them and fork out more money.

Guilt Toy, they installed my second hand Power FC and tuned it, cost around 600 or so i think.

So when you say they lock it, is that so no-one else can re-tune it?

Sure as hell dont want to pay them to re-tune it, if they didnt do it right in the first place.

Do you tune Power FC's yourself?

Guilt Toy, they installed my second hand Power FC and tuned it, cost around 600 or so i think.

So when you say they lock it, is that so no-one else can re-tune it?

Sure as hell dont want to pay them to re-tune it, if they didnt do it right in the first place.

Do you tune Power FC's yourself?

Yeah they lock the power fc, you can take it to someone else to tune it but when they unlock it the ecu will have to be totally retuned. I think its got something to do with the different type of software they are using, i never realy bothered to look into it more.. whenever i fix a CRD tune i just re-tune the whole thing from scratch.

$600 is cheap for a CRD tune, if i was to re-tune it i would charge $400 - $500 but I would go driving with you on the street to make sure everything is in order after the tune and compare the knocking on your PFC to a Gizzmo k-mon to make sure your not getting false knock readings which happens 50% or more of the time.

Good luck with it, if they fix it for free then thats great!

Yeah they lock the power fc, you can take it to someone else to tune it but when they unlock it the ecu will have to be totally retuned. I think its got something to do with the different type of software they are using, i never realy bothered to look into it more.. whenever i fix a CRD tune i just re-tune the whole thing from scratch.

$600 is cheap for a CRD tune, if i was to re-tune it i would charge $400 - $500 but I would go driving with you on the street to make sure everything is in order after the tune and compare the knocking on your PFC to a Gizzmo k-mon to make sure your not getting false knock readings which happens 50% or more of the time.

Good luck with it, if they fix it for free then thats great!

i find it difficult to believe Jim would have only charged $600 for a tune...its over $200 cheaper than usual CRD price.

Sorry for taking over your thread Ashneel!!! Apologies mate.

Thanks Guilt Toy, will contact them today and see what they can offer me. If things dont go as planned then i might have to pop up to Newcastle and get you to tune it for me :P

Cheers mate, greatly appreciated!!!

hey guys have been running the car with the current tune for about 3 months now and have noticed (since the tune but never really looked into it until now) every now and then under full load on full boost on 3rd or 4th id get engine light flash and the knock would read to somewhere as low as 60 to as high as 120. haven't seen it go higher.

now this dosnt happen all the time for example today while entering the freeway dropped it to 3rd gave it a boot and it was fine. later tonight did the same and engine light flashed and recorded knock to 90. was driving home just an hour ago gave it the boot and nothing all was normal. at times it would flash 3-4 times in a row at times it wouldnt even flash.

i remember reading somewhere that knock sensors can hit a high with normal road conditions then being run on the roller as it picks up vibrations. is that true? i know the best thing to do is take it to the tuners obviously they will look into and correct it but there's not much that i can do or check on the PFC can i?

ta

Ash

just a quick note (not sure who tuned it) that full throttle yesterday on a 43 degree day is not idea testing conditions :(

it sounds like a few missed celld on the timing map, should be 2mins for your tuner to fix.

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