Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

heya bud didnt mean to sound rude if i did, from the info ive gathered i just thought at 20psi it would have been more like 350-360rwkw

this was a previous persons, power 'just made 320AWKW on 18lbs, full boost at 3800 (of the top of my head) -5's, custom dumps, inlet, pump, injectors, G4 LINK, std cams, std engine'

and my current set up with built engine but r34 bb turbos is making 280rwkw @ 15psi, im thinkn maybe just have my turbos rebuilt and hi flowed this should acheive the 320-340rwkw

heya bud didnt mean to sound rude if i did, from the info ive gathered i just thought at 20psi it would have been more like 350-360rwkw

this was a previous persons, power 'just made 320AWKW on 18lbs, full boost at 3800 (of the top of my head) -5's, custom dumps, inlet, pump, injectors, G4 LINK, std cams, std engine'

and my current set up with built engine but r34 bb turbos is making 280rwkw @ 15psi, im thinkn maybe just have my turbos rebuilt and hi flowed this should acheive the 320-340rwkw

Nah you didn't come across rude at all. :huh: I was just asking if you had personal experience, thats all.

What might clear ther air is that the dyno I was on is a very old model that is well known in Perth to measure less then I am actually doing. I few of the SAUWA members have reported in the past of running their car at the dyno I was on and a few weeks later running at other dynos around Perth and reporting a bigger figure.

My advanced timing is very conservative compared to other people. Plus also I am running low compression (1.6mm Gasket) So the -5's need to push alot more air to get a decent figure.

I agree that 330RWKW is abit on the low side compared to what others are getting but lets take into account that my motor used to have a T04Z with 6 Boost manifold and 50mm Ext Tial Wastegate and it was pushing 575RWHP with no advanced timing to speak off.

My motor is not the best example of the potential of -5's at 20PSI.

All will change at 24PSI though......... :P

-5's.

Thanks for letting me know.

I assume that you compression is standard?

Mine is much lower (with my 1.6mm gasket)

My motor was built for big PSI so its not the best example for 20PSI -5's :huh:

However once boost is raised then we'll see.

Thanks for letting me know.

I assume that you compression is standard?

Mine is much lower (with my 1.6mm gasket)

My motor was built for big PSI so its not the best example for 20PSI -5's :huh:

However once boost is raised then we'll see.

My motor just has bolt ons. I guess I am just trying to make the point (Again, I know I'll go away soon) that a -5 will push out numbers in the range of 400-450rwhp on less psi than a -7 or even a -9.

Which is always a bonus if you want to look after the thing. Less compression = less heat.

But to clarify for two same same motors with different turbos and a same rwhp number the BMEP figure for the motors will be very close.

with cams your power is low because of your 8200 rev limit i would say!

i have stock cams and mine is 8600! still making power at 8500 8600!!!

on just 15 16 psi 400.6 rwhp in 47deg heat would easy go more on a cool day!

i will be re wiring my fuel pump and spit fire coil packs then tuned to 20 22 psi so stayed tuned!

i have 5s to by the way

330rwkw for 20psi is an awful lot of boost for that reading from a -5.

My RB26 is within a few rwkw using 15psi.

I was thinking the same thing. Mine makes 320KW at the wheels at 17psi and it's an original build

...Why would you have expected more? Have you had personal experience with GT2860R-5's?...

...We are expecting over 500 All Wheel HP once done.

I will keep you all posted. :P

In my personal experience I just thought their would be more to gain. Yes I do, see above. I would be expecting something around 480whp on a 2.6. Good luck Adam and please post up the future results :huh:

My motor just has bolt ons. I guess I am just trying to make the point (Again, I know I'll go away soon) that a -5 will push out numbers in the range of 400-450rwhp on less psi than a -7 or even a -9.

Which is always a bonus if you want to look after the thing. Less compression = less heat.

But to clarify for two same same motors with different turbos and a same rwhp number the BMEP figure for the motors will be very close.

I think the maps show that around that range the -5's and -9's are about the same? But, as it gets higher in airflow the -5's excel

stock bottom end & now requires a bottom end rebuild (factory gtr bottom end is not engineered to handle this power, it has happened to me twice now)

in terms of rwkw i think you lose 10% in awkw mode, so maybe call it 350rwkw?

paul (dirtgarage, aka gtr wikipedia lol) can confirm this if he happens to read my post

yes i thought it was good mph as well nick & a little surprised myself, to be 100% accurate i cracked 129.75mph (130mph would have been nice)

Good work - Offtopic: Who will be building your new bottom end? Pm if you like

I was thinking the same thing. Mine makes 320KW at the wheels at 17psi and it's an original build

In my personal experience I just thought their would be more to gain. Yes I do, see above. I would be expecting something around 480whp on a 2.6. Good luck Adam and please post up the future results :P

Will do :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...