Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When I bought my -5's I only paid $2100 via MTQES in wetherill park (syd) and at the time hks gtss's were almost double that...there is money to be saved. You will need the gasket kit and also don't forget about a set of actuators which set me back another $450 with brackets. You will then be set

well if the garrets are $2100-$2500 a pair and actuators are $450 a pair, plus gaskets, other fittings they are pretty close to HKS GTSS which are around $3000 or so (from memory) which includes HKS actuators, all gaskets and fittings etc. the HKS ones do seem to be more nicely finished too.

Not even close to the same ATM :)

Nengun has them listed currently @ $3400 given the exchange rate has gone to the pooper. Way more than -9s with actuators/gaskets right now. Add postage, tax... You'll be pretty close to 4k landed.

Which is around $800-$1000 more @ this point in time.

Not even close to the same ATM :)

Nengun has them listed currently @ $3400 given the exchange rate has gone to the pooper. Way more than -9s with actuators/gaskets right now. Add postage, tax... You'll be pretty close to 4k landed.

Which is around $800-$1000 more @ this point in time.

I do not get it are you happy that they are more expensive or happy because you corrected someone on an internet forum?

I do not get it are you happy that they are more expensive or happy because you corrected someone on an internet forum?

beerbaron is correct.

as per rhd website, GTSS complete kit comes 262,395 Japanese Yen = 3,306.18 Australian Dollars (much better value for money)

And what about the $300+ in tax that you'll are potentially going to cop? :rolleyes:

You can get -9s locally for around $2800-$3000. That's complete with gaskets ($100) & actuators ($250).

If you paid $450 for 2 actuators, then you were stung yet again. They are $250 from GCG every day of the week.

The HKS Kit costs $300 more before it even leaves Japan. Add freight, add Tax... Even conservatively you've paid $3700

All for what?

A spray-on HKS logo on the 2 actuators. That's it. There is no other difference.

The HKS Kit is only comparative when the dollar was above 95, which when it was - the HKS kit was a good buy.

And what about the $300+ in tax that you'll are potentially going to cop? :rolleyes:

You can get -9s locally for around $2800-$3000. That's complete with gaskets ($100) & actuators ($250).

If you paid $450 for 2 actuators, then you were stung yet again. They are $250 from GCG every day of the week.

The HKS Kit costs $300 more before it even leaves Japan. Add freight, add Tax... Even conservatively you've paid $3700

All for what?

A spray-on HKS logo on the 2 actuators. That's it. There is no other difference.

The HKS Kit is only comparative when the dollar was above 95, which when it was - the HKS kit was a good buy.

ive 'never' paid tax & ive bought most of my gear from japan on all my gtr's ive owned.

my actuators were not standard, they were setup with a heavier diaphram's to make them equivalent to the hks actuators (base release was 17psi from memory). nothing beats hks actuators & this not my personal opinion btw.

difference between garrett & hks is another debate and also depends on who you ask...

HKS actuators with the GT-SS kit are not 17psi base. They are 14-14.7psi outta the box. I know because I have them on my GTS-R.

They are identical to the ones you buy counter from GCG, just with a little HKS logo sprayed on.

difference between garrett & hks is another debate and also depends on who you ask...

What debate? The GT-SS and Garrett -9 are identical in every way.

Anyone that says they are different doesn't know what they are talking about

HKS actuators with the GT-SS kit are not 17psi base. They are 14-14.7psi outta the box. I know because I have them on my GTS-R.

They are identical to the ones you buy counter from GCG, just with a little HKS logo sprayed on.

What debate? The GT-SS and Garrett -9 are identical in every way.

Anyone that says they are different doesn't know what they are talking about

well then ive been taken down the garden path by GCG & 3 other workshops who all told me that hks actuators are not the same as GCG items - i had this problem when my rb30 was on the dyno & saw it with my own eyes.

the debate has already started with hks v's garrett lol

SS's -9's

Compressor Wheel

GT25 GT 25

Compressor Wheel (mm)

44.46 - 59.41 44.46 - 59.41

Comp Trim

56T 56T

Comp AR

0.42 0.42

Turbine Housing

T25 T25

Turbine Wheel

GT 25 GT 25

Turbine Wheel (mm)

42.4 -53.85 42.4 -53.85

Turbine trim

62T 62T

Turbine AR

0.64 0.64

FROM GCG

Ball bearing

Oil & water-cooled bearing system

T25 turbine inlet flange with threaded bolt holes instead of traditional through holes

GT Series oil drain flange

Turbine housing has a unique "compact" 5-bolt outlet that is not interchangeable with traditional T25 5-bolt outlets

Turbine housing is cast from high-nickel "Ni-Resist" material for extreme application

Actuators not Included

Turbine wheel is cast from "Inconnel" material for extreme applications

0.64a/r turbine housing

0.42a/r compressor housing

$1376.77 each (then minus SAU 10% = $1239.10)

X 2 = $2478

+ dains and gaskets = $216

+ actuators = $216

TOTAL = $2910

* The above assumes you are a SAU Member

SS kit from Nengun via the slowest snail mail I could find was $3572 delivered

Same fkn turbo, same shit. With the $662 (if you dont get hit with tax which normally you dont but who knows) you can go and buy yourself a set of poncams or some cam gears and a some cheap skank for the night. :thumbsup:

Funny thing is -5's come with a 15.5 PSI actuator for exactly the same price!

If you wanna be a real hard arse you can go the -10's for $1633 each but they dont come with actuators. We all know what a awsome turbo those bad boys are!:nyaanyaa:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If there's a next time, next exit after mine is Costco 😛
    • OK. But what about parts of the block that, when assembled, were twisted into a position that pushed into the void space, which, when disassembled, then released that force and opened back up, thus putting the grout into tension? Would effectively just pull the cast iron off the grout at the interface, leaving a tiny void and benefitting not much at all. Swings, and roundabouts. It's like putting something tiny into the fleshlight and finding out you needed a smaller one, to perhaps follow your area of expertise.
    • Nah. You buy a kit that has shorter tubes.
    • I didnt present too many conclusions because I wanted your opinions and feedback based on your own experiences. I don't know the exact material, but it is similar to concrete and therfor only has valuable strength in compression. The forces on the set material once the head is removed would mostly be in compression since the grout wants to retain its shape and the block wants to return to its relaxed state since it's still within the elastic region. The grout would theoretically make the block more rigid. The exact amount would take a better setup on my end. Thought experiment: Instead of aliens, twist your favorite fleshlite. Now fill it with grout and allow it to sit for a week. Now try to twist it again. Observe what you see. Now get your other one and blow into it. Observe what you see. Now put it into a can and fill the space between your fleshlite and the can. After it sets blow into it. Less movement in torsion and less expansion i hope.   
×
×
  • Create New...