Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I run -7's with a shitty exhaust and stock afm's. With id1000's and a walbro 400 fuel pump I make 325kw on 20psi with E85. If I fix my exhaust and chuck some bigger afm's on I'd probably crack 350kw.

It'd be much easier to do it with -9's and I don't think there would be much more lag involved.

What exhaust you going for?

Ok, had a play.

Your car is obviously tuned in 3rd gear going by the speeds. It's a bit rough but you get the idea.

3950: N= 176 P= 215

4400: N= 252 P = 300

4800: N= 306 P = 375

5244: N = 326 P = 415

5644: N = 344 P = 445

6100: N= 350 P= 460

6500: N = 342 P = 472

Take into consideration how they were loaded up for the runs and whatnot.

Just out of curiosity...

I have a set of -5s on my std RB26DETT and i'm only making 300kw on 22psi...

The things I noticed are my actuators are set at 8psi and I have 600cc injectors coupled with a Walbro 255 pump.

Are these going to be an issue or is it a tuning issue?

EDIT- Using 5speed from RB25 and 4.08 S14 Diff in an S15

Edited by TheGeniusMoose

Thats what im trying to figure out! My injectors hit 100% duty cycle on full boost thats why I thought my pump or injectors were maxing out but doesnt make sence I should be making 300kw on less than 20psi id have thought...

Previously I had valve float but that has been rectified.

Edited by TheGeniusMoose

What exhaust you going for?

Nothing at the moment as I'm content with the power. I think I'll get more gains if I upgrade my actuators 1st and see how I go.

Eventually I'll rip the cat out and the 3" exhaust and replace it all with 3.5".

Ok, had a play.

Your car is obviously tuned in 3rd gear going by the speeds. It's a bit rough but you get the idea.

3950: N= 176 P= 215

4400: N= 252 P = 300

4800: N= 306 P = 375

5244: N = 326 P = 415

5644: N = 344 P = 445

6100: N= 350 P= 460

6500: N = 342 P = 472

Take into consideration how they were loaded up for the runs and whatnot.

Was 4th gear he doesn't tune in 3rd

Well the 255L was an upgrade on the SR lol. What should I be aiming for when I buy a new one?

The pump provided its getting the right voltage should have an issue with that power. I think it's time to put your inspector gadget hat on and start investigating.

I'd say, once again, attention to detail on the setup is where the better results are. Big, size matched exhausts blah blah.

Got a sheet Nick?

Exactly.

I had 340rwkw with -9s on 98, but it wasn't a stock engine - and that is where the extra bits/gains come from

Nothing at the moment as I'm content with the power. I think I'll get more gains if I upgrade my actuators 1st and see how I go.

Eventually I'll rip the cat out and the 3" exhaust and replace it all with 3.5".

I see!

An actuator upgrade will do it good.

Yeah, if you want to get over the 350 rwkW mark, go 3.5".

Exactly.

I had 340rwkw with -9s on 98, but it wasn't a stock engine - and that is where the extra bits/gains come from

+1

Other thing is the turbos are REALLY laggy.

I get 18psi by 6000rpm and power drops off completely at 22psi at 7500rpm so theres no point revving past there...

The pump provided its getting the right voltage should have an issue with that power. I think it's time to put your inspector gadget hat on and start investigating.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This piece is obscenely discontinued. I honestly hate the frameless window design because the rubber gets stressed and the guides as well every time you open and close the door.
    • I wouldn't be concerned at all, other than to suggest having them flow tested when you receive them to confirm they are reasonably similar, and then put the highest to lowest flowing ones in cylinder 6,1,5,2,4,3
    • I’m only posting this cause I thought I had seen a bad review on these somewhere before. Any feedback? Would you guys recommend that if I do buy these I send em to RC to have em checked before installing. Or any other suggestions?   https://www.ebay.com/itm/114009965865?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JDl-15yLQ8C&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=QTzlFXB1S-S&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
×
×
  • Create New...