Jump to content
SAU Community

-7/9s Or -5s Garretts


Adz2332

Recommended Posts

not a very original sign in... :P ^^^

you know the real DRDRIFT is on here regulary?

Lol, I thought that too!

I'm going for the -9's on my R34 after a lot of reading, previously had 2530's on the R32, but wanted more spread so to speak, and not aiming for 350+kw.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well ive had my number plates DRDRFT for over 10years. plus look at the date i signed up to sau....i aint gonna change it because sam is also known as dr drift....

Seriously though, no beef from me. Was just a thing that stood out, lots or similar user names on here anyways :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What do we think the -9 is capable of? My GTR is only a daily driven thing so I don't want it running 22psi with 400kw. I was thinking when I get them all installed with injectors etc to suit, to be running a high boost of about 18psi (seems to be a good figure to keep the standard 26 alive) and a low boost setting of 14psi.

14psi= 250rwkw

18psi=280-300rwkw?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

garrett specs and power levels as per my sig

Yeah but at how much psi are those power figures. Going by the RB26 power thread most -7 users are making 280ish at 18psi.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so.. whats the differance between a -7 and -9. and what is the real world "lag" differance compared to a -5

wait.... is this a troll?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stock everything -5s my car makes positive pressure from 2k RPM easily and really starts moving at 3k RPM. It's making 300awkW by 5k RPM. At 60km/h in 3rd it's at 3k RPM so not that laggy, really.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If doing mods later and you want more top end, as I plan to, I reckon they really aren't laggy. Then again I had HKS 2530s before so maybe I'm just used to it? I much prefer this kind of delivery to the stockers anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My old GTR which I built 5 years ago had all the normal (saftey not power goodies, forgies etc... and had a set of HKS GTRS, on its maiden tune it made 366.9Awkw @22psi, not laggy.

Lost my licence so sold it but could off got alot more out of it with more tuning.

Now I just got the bug and have just started a new build on another GTR. this time with money being hard, i have opted for -10s, motor has internal saftey work but still running standard fuel system! til i get more money. @10psi i am 300Awkw...this is only stage one and when funds allow will be upgrading fuel system and than start to play again. Not as responsive as previous setup at the moment but not a lag bomb. Anything over 3800rpm and she will start to boogie...I cant make a definitive answer yet til I turn up the boost but so far it feels like even though the -10 is rated the same as the HKS GTRS, I dont think on the street it will preform on par with HKS? But only time will tell....

I think people are too fused about how much boost is safe on the street, It is all to do with tuning, Big turbos doesnt mean lag if setup and tuned right!

My old supra ran 577Rwkw@over 2bar boost, as a daily drive, turbo was bigger than my head and everybody said it will be laggy as hell, but I am also a lazy driver and I can tell you that it was not laggy, no need to drop gears, just excelerate and spin to my hearts content... IMO its all in the tune. Did go to calder just for fun and she pulled [email protected] spin 3/4 track...But that was with full tien drift setup....was not setup for quater...

Dr Drft...

My -10s out performed my previous hks gtrs setup :P

When I built my engine, I was tossing up between the -10s and a t04z and I stuck with -10s for a number of reasons...my tuner told me at the time its either u go -10s or a t51r as he can tune a t51r to come in about 1000rpm later than the -10s so yes I agree with u, tuning plays a huge part in response. Also noted if its tuned for response u sacrifice top end and vice versa.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Although Im running a rwd rb26, Im very happy I decided to go with the -5's rather than the 7's. I have been in a couple of gtr's that are running built motors with the 7's and in my opinion although they are super responsive they seem to run out of steam in the upper rev range.

Using the -5's with poncams and vi-pec on only 14psi my car made 325rwkw easily and pulls as hard at 8 grand as it does at 4 grand with massive amounts of mid-range.

Positive boost is cranking by 2 grand and by 3000rpm its fully into it. After having a RB20 in the car previously this feels like no lag at all.

I realise that once i wind the boost up it will have slightly more lag, but I can deal with that if I can reach the magical 400rwkw whilst still on 98RON.

My 2 cents.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

These are the prices I've been quoted for the 2860s. Probably going to go with the -9 for the great medium between the -5 and -7. Also I have no idea why Garrett don't make the -9 and -10 with actuators not included in the bundle.

They did make the "-9" included with actuators.....it is known as the 780371 -1 .... notice the same chra number.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...9R_780371_1.htm

I believe your stock act will work as well but i have no idea how they will respond compared to the garretts that come with the new turbo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i guess the clear distinct advantage here is you can keep your working stockers or sell them when you buy a pair of new turbos

whereas if you highflow your old ones, you take them off, send them and get them back later

if price was the same

i would go a new pair %100

instead of highflowing originals

I'm aware that high-flowing something is a little annoying for the mechanic involved, however my point was, as per hypergear's post:

RS has different turbine wheel. Probably not much more in HP, but lot more torque. We've been using those 2x types of CHRAs in our 300zx turbo developments. Very noticeable amount of difference on road, The RS gives stronger pulling sensation while both turbos made within 2KWs difference.

In reference to using a 2860RS core on GTR turbo's. So the extra torque / approx power level is what I'm referring to.

I found a little info on the 300ZX forums but I'm not a member there and they do have 3litre engines.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am currently going this route. I am curious how much horse power you put behind the cut bell housing? Collins was telling me I am going to crack it and bluh bluh bluh. Because I didn’t buy the custom fly wheel from him. I am looking for somewhere around like 500 hp
    • Forgot to mention that these are the before pics when I first got it!
    • Thanks @PranK for the updated member status, much appreciated! 👍🏼 Now, about those pics… Unfortunately I could only find ones that I took in the dark. I was soon to discover that underneath it wasn’t in the best shape, but it was mine and that’s all I cared about at the time 😆
    • Oh, and only having done this task yesterday, I've now driven the car ~60km since, and while it is hard to avoid placebo effect and confirmation bias, I reckon that some annoyances I had with the way the car has been behaving have improved. Which....kinda makes sense, I guess. If the bushes were really stiff and resisting rotation, they would have been contributing to the effective wheel rate. And if it was more so on one side (which it was, because one side was worse than the other) then.... you might imagine that the additional rate would be asymmetric, and potentially even different between compression and rebound. And so... the car has been twitchy at higher speeds - like freeway on ramps. It really shouldn't be. The wheel alignment is good and there are no (other) known problems elsewhere in the suspension. But at 90-100 on a long sweeping ramp, tiny steering wheel motions would make it feel like it wanted to rear steer. Quite nervous. At lower speeds it would heave about in a manner that it didn't use to. Didn't want to put power down, etc etc. Now...seems to behave better. Am going to have to concentrate on the various corners where it has exhibited weirdness, on the rare occasions when I can get a decent run at them without Methanial getting in the way in his D-Max/Ranger/LDV Van/etc.
×
×
  • Create New...