Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thread brings lols

Eric was telling me about those brass cages Sean looking freaking sweet!!

Don't sneeze too hard piggy ?

Thanks!

Work in progress, but all back together and ready to go now :D

post-12712-0-79445800-1391761731_thumb.jpegpost-12712-0-22310300-1391761755_thumb.jpegpost-12712-0-22021000-1391761777_thumb.jpeg

I'll do the turbo swap tomorrow.

Oh the joys!...

Tempted to fly Yavus up here and rent a dyno! ;D

Good luck mate.

Call him and ask but I don't think he will unless it's $$$$$ on the table.

Drive it down, weekend with the "crew", tune and drive home ;)

I'll do the turbo swap tomorrow.

Oh the joys!...

Tempted to fly Yavus up here and rent a dyno! ;D

I finally swapped out my turbos after contemplating for a year, yes it was a lot of fun but as long as you have a methodical approach it really ain't that bad (with the right tools, that kinchrome stubby ratchet set is a live saver)
  • Like 1

Yeah it's been a while eh! :)

Gonna go stock cams so, the usual settings on those ;), was happier with stock for street.

Yep love the stubby kingchromes!

The old, "bigger ain't always better".

Love it :D

You think I would of learned the first time...

Yeah love the stock cams down low. Easy to pull over double factory power from them too.

Maybe a 250 poncam would be a happy medium. Not much more duration, but a decent whack of lift.... Or go the whole hog, relieve the head and run some high light, low duration cams.

Personally, I'd like to do a back to back with a 250ish with 11 mm plus cam vs my ones. All R&D :(.

I'm looking at getting a set custom made around there

Maybe a 250 poncam would be a happy medium. Not much more duration, but a decent whack of lift.... Or go the whole hog, relieve the head and run some high light, low duration cams.Personally, I'd like to do a back to back with a 250ish with 11 mm plus cam vs my ones. All R&D :(.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • careful when running the car after a boil over. Ive heard you can lose enough coolant that it won't show the right temps because of too much air in the system (or something like that). Make sure the levels are good before trying again.  Maybe a mobile mechanic can come have a look with their scan tool ?
    • OK, just for some extra clarity - there is more than one option at Frenchy's. 1. You can buy the whole kit - with or without the actual compressor. The whole kit includes mounts, hoses, condensor, etc. That's either ~$2200 or ~$2800. No surgery required with this option. 2. You can buy just the bracket (~$600), or the bracket with the compressor (~$1200). Either of this or the above option "without the compressor" is if you already have an Echo comp or you are able to source one locally. Whatever the case, in this option, you will need surgery done on your hoses to adapt to the new compressor. When I said "the Frenchy's kit", I meant the whole kit in option 1. It is obviously somewhat more $$ than a $1500 OEM compressor. But if I had to spend $1500 on an OEM compressor, I would certainly consider spending double that to renew and significantly update everything forward of the firewall. Another option is to rebuild your original compressor. My R34 comp is currently dead and I will be most likely doing that to it if the spare one in the shed is also leaky.
    • I’m thinking that’s the route I’ll  go, thanks for the input!
    • Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
×
×
  • Create New...