Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday all

Just Bought an R33 gts-t Shell (Literally) the only thing it has is Front, Rear and Rear Quarter windows

I Have no Parts for it at the moment Buy them as i go. Where Should I Start?

Thanks

I will shortly be pulling a 235RWkW engine out of my R33 to make room for a RB30/26. Also available is a R33 GTST Powerfc and hand controller. Engine comes complete with GT3076 turbo. Splitfire coilpacks and Z32 AFM, if your interested??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254713-where-to-start/#findComment-4396681
Share on other sites

I reckon it will work out a lot more expensive and frustrating that just buying a working car..

If you're than keen on building it up, then try find a wrecked 33 that you can swap the interior and working bits from.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254713-where-to-start/#findComment-4397376
Share on other sites

yeah seems a little crazy.. unless you're thinking about a stripped interior drifter/track car or something. I'd say you'd really be struggling to find everything from forums/2nd hand, hope you know some one who works for nissan. might be worth buying a halfcut though as others have said.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254713-where-to-start/#findComment-4397566
Share on other sites

Halfcut gets you everything you need from dash forward. Schedule about 4k? (Haven't really looked into halfcut prices recently)

In terms of interior there is a guy in Perth wrecking 2 33's atm that will probably have most the parts you need. His thread is in the FS section (Car parts and Accessories)

Running gear you'd have to source, referring to hubs control arms etc and again that guy has a turbo 33 that hes parting out which should have most of what your looking for.

Once you have 90% of it in I'm sure you'll start looking for specific parts. If your doing the work yourself and its a bit of a project then good luck with it all and im sure it will be a rewarding process.

If you were looking at trying to get a cheap r33 this way you'd be better off selling this hell and getting a complete car.

My2c.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254713-where-to-start/#findComment-4397602
Share on other sites

Pretty sure he bought the leftover shell from the guy that was wrecking those 2 33's. It is smashed and literally bare except for glass: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bo...ts-t254005.html

To be honest man I think you would be better off buying a complete car. Not only do you need to fix the smashed up front end but you need to buy so many individual components to get it to a working state...it will be a massive headache.

If you were trying to do it this way to save money then I think you will be suprised at how much you dont save.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254713-where-to-start/#findComment-4397638
Share on other sites

Thanks Everyone For the input

I'm Gonna Keep The Shell And Do it up not to fussed bout how much it'll cost

I Just always wanted to build a car from scratch and what better car then an R33 Parts Aplenty

And as Someone mentioned above upon completion it will be very rewarding!

I've enquired bout a half cut from prestige motorsport is there anyone in W.A that imports Half-cuts?

Thanks All

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254713-where-to-start/#findComment-4399718
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Same thought crossed my mind ~ depends on how one connotes 'stalling'...ie; gets a rough/stumbling idle as it get warm until it stalls... or... idles ok and simply falls-over when it gets to temp... ...you can test the whole circuit with a couple of resistors ...unplug coolant temp sensor, bridge terminals with a 2K7 resistor (ECU will do cold start), or with engine warm bridge with a 330R resistor (ECU will consider engine to be at normal operating temp)...it's a quick way to check wiring integrity/ECU response when you don't have a multimeter handy ...
    • They also make them with the motor mounted on the side 
    • Just be warned that that turbo will not be a direct re-fit to the car. The exhaust housing is, of course, in the same place. It has to be - it's bolted to the exhaust manifold. So the dump will fit up. But the centre housing is not as long, so the comp housing will move backwards. This will affect both the turbo inlet and the outlet. There is fab work that needs to be done. Yes. it has one, it should have one. Paper gasket.
    • I only recently purchased the vehicle, it came with the flex setup but the current tune is e85 only, which is why im wanting to get the tune redone to enable a mixture.  First i need to get the exhaust redone tho. I was thinking of getting a varex muffler but it sems they dont fit well in the 33 (hang low because of the valve mechanism which sticks out on top) and generally dont sound good. So that leaves me with redoing the entire exhaust (more resonators and mufflers) so its not a menace when i come and go from home, and then have the aes dump valve somewhere along the line to really open it up. I was thinking of having it before the cat but after seeing how insanely loud it will be (on a vl turbo) im thinking of putting it more towards the rear of the car, after one of the resonators. 
    • At this point I'm just 'hoping' it's the turbo seals. I did speak to someone who said it's normal for these turbos to have a bit of axial play? Not gonna lie I've never checked a turbo for axial play before but you could hear it tapping a bit as I moved it back and forth. Surely that's too much? My theory is (could be completely wrong), bad axial play, worn bearings, bad seals, oil into dump/compressor side, burns in exhaust = blue smoke. On a timing belt related note, my crank pulley was missing that front plate that sits in front of the timing belt. It's that metal round plate. It did have the rear one, and the woodruff keys are in the crank which was nice. Can anyone confirm if the NEO det engine has a front plate, im sure it would to protect the front of the timing belt or something. Water pumps...the pump I got was an NPW (yes grill me if I should've got a genuine one lol). It has a smooth mating surface, kit came with a pretty pathetic looking paper gasket. Do I need to use any RTV or just trust the gasket will work because its a smooth mating surface? Cheers legends have a good Easter break!
×
×
  • Create New...