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Fuel Flap Actuator Motor...my Exploded Views!

superspit
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Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

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PN - 78850-AM80A

that is the updated part. I'd say they fixed the issue you found. I show a 9600 Yen purchase price.

take that part to nissan and get a price.

I lost where I found it in FAST :sick:

Stephen Thorpe Proficient

Stephen Thorpe

Posted
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OOOH WAAAAAAH.... :huh:

That last picture of the small electric motor, is that the bit seized?

It looks very similar to the R33 Fold in Mirror Motor, with a different gear wheel and I had one of those seized that was 'prised' apart, cleaned up with scotchbrite and crc and re-assembled.

Still works a treat... but wouldn't not turn at all initially.

Check you have voltage to the terminals first.

superspit Mentor

superspit

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That last picture of the small electric motor, is that the bit seized?

It looks very similar to the R33 Fold in Mirror Motor, with a different gear wheel and I had one of those seized that was 'prised' apart, cleaned up with scotchbrite and crc and re-assembled.

Still works a treat... but wouldn't not turn at all initially.

Check you have voltage to the terminals first.

Hi Stepen.....thanx for your suggestion, but the issue is not one of 'seizure', or friction of any sort.

I should've posted the pics of the motor's exploded view......

I have infact pulled apart the motor (going back to a job I had some 25 years ago..LOL!)....and found the commutator terminals (from the coils) were damaged...

Also found the terminals to the brushes were OC.....Multimeter had confirmed open circuit prior to dissasembly, via power inputs.......blah blah blah.... :huh:

So yeah....I'd love to get just the motor for it....it's looks like a very standard hobby motor, a little larger than normal, but certainly nothing special..(it does have a 'keyed output shaft for the 'helix' type drive')......the ceramic capacitor in there probably only serves as a 'spark/noise reducing' component....whatever....

I have a couple of choices now....

Go to Nissan, down the road......or go to one of the few remaining 'real' tronic houses....Jaycar...(seems that Dick Smith sells white goods now!..grrrrrrrrr!)

I don't mind modding stuff like this...we'll see what happens.

Stephen Thorpe Proficient

Stephen Thorpe

Posted
Posted
Hi Stepen.....thanx for your suggestion, but the issue is not one of 'seizure', or friction of any sort.

I should've posted the pics of the motor's exploded view......

I have infact pulled apart the motor (going back to a job I had some 25 years ago..LOL!)....and found the commutator terminals (from the coils) were damaged...

Also found the terminals to the brushes were OC.....Multimeter had confirmed open circuit prior to dissasembly, via power inputs.......blah blah blah.... :huh:

So yeah....I'd love to get just the motor for it....it's looks like a very standard hobby motor, a little larger than normal, but certainly nothing special..(it does have a 'keyed output shaft for the 'helix' type drive')......the ceramic capacitor in there probably only serves as a 'spark/noise reducing' component....whatever....

I have a couple of choices now....

Go to Nissan, down the road......or go to one of the few remaining 'real' tronic houses....Jaycar...(seems that Dick Smith sells white goods now!..grrrrrrrrr!)

I don't mind modding stuff like this...we'll see what happens.

Cool, good work...

Wasn't sure that you had gone that far with motor and yes they do look like something common.

Although, when I started to look for a motor for the R33 Mirror, I couldn't find anything similar. I am fairly sure I tried Jaycar too.

Good Luck

Stephen Thorpe Proficient

Stephen Thorpe

Posted
Posted

Yeh Dick Smiths, what an excellent shop!

Always been quite expensive and now they have really lost the plot.

There's a lack of real Customer Service with Kids that have no real knowledge too, although Jaycar can be a bit like that and sometimes they can not help in an understandable language either.

superspit Mentor

superspit

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  • Author
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Yeh Dick Smiths, what an excellent shop!

Always been quite expensive and now they have really lost the plot.

There's a lack of real Customer Service with Kids that have no real knowledge too, although Jaycar can be a bit like that and sometimes they can not help in an understandable language either.

yep...I hear ya Stephen.....I miss the times when I'd go to Radio Parts to by my Valves for my guitar amps and old radios (I'm not that old really), go through the STACKS of buckets and trays finding the shit that would really make something dreamy turn into reality, or make it work again...(or just plain let the smoke out of the box..which was fun too!) and that excited feeling I got just strolling through the reems of resistors and caps (on magazine tape), 555 timers, 749 op-amps...the smells, the quality staff that actually taught you something....the project kits..(everything from the electronic 'rolling dice' to the 'cricket insect'..amps, alarms, flip-flop/logic circuits...etc)....the groovy dyi mags......ohhhhhhhhhhhhh.......was it just me?

ok..cool....reality check light....all ok.

Stephen Thorpe Proficient

Stephen Thorpe

Posted
Posted

I agree, used to really enjoy getting to those sort of shops and making a project, even if I didn't have one.

Always came out more intelligent, however these days... sad but true Customer Service is not what it used to be.

I blame people that don't care and just want the cheapest and nastiest product which seems to go hand in hand.

superspit Mentor

superspit

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Hi......(grrrrrrrrr) :P

Anyone got a sparey?

Anyone know where I may be able to find one local?..(hahahaha).

Cheers. :P

Details of car as per below.

REVISED WITH SUCCEESS!!!

I managed to track down a nice little comparible DC motor, albeit rated at 24 volts, but still could easily pull the skin off the custard.

I took it out of a robot arm servo ..(I asked him first before disconnecting it, he said that he'll live)..

I had to grind the end of the motor's shaft, to 'key it, so as to allow fitment into the 'helix' drive gear.

I cut back the brass contacts, and soldered the wires (with a ceramic cap across the input) to what was left of the contacts.

Look, I'll show you my pics......but I'm very happy so far.....I'll install it tonite......along with a piece of string attached to the rear rail, just incase she jams up, and I can't be farrrked taking the trims back out to get to this little horror!

All gears freshly greased....just hope I put pos and neg the right way 'round!!!...ooooops!

That's the old (larger motor) pictured aswell.....the device 'aligns' itself quite well!...(you can have a fair amount of play within the helix and key drive), and she'll still go.

Cheers.

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n15m0 Grand Master

n15m0

Posted
Posted

REVISED WITH SUCCEESS!!!

I managed to track down a nice little comparible DC motor, albeit rated at 24 volts, but still could easily pull the skin off the custard.

I took it out of a robot arm servo ..(I asked him first before disconnecting it, he said that he'll live)..

I had to grind the end of the motor's shaft, to 'key it, so as to allow fitment into the 'helix' drive gear.

I cut back the brass contacts, and soldered the wires (with a ceramic cap across the input) to what was left of the contacts.

Look, I'll show you my pics......but I'm very happy so far.....I'll install it tonite......along with a piece of string attached to the rear rail, just incase she jams up, and I can't be farrrked taking the trims back out to get to this little horror!

All gears freshly greased....just hope I put pos and neg the right way 'round!!!...ooooops!

That's the old (larger motor) pictured aswell.....the device 'aligns' itself quite well!...(you can have a fair amount of play within the helix and key drive), and she'll still go.

Cheers.

wow! You should put your hand up to be a mini Chris Rogers or next of kin lol.

Good work...let us know if it works.

Stephen Thorpe Proficient

Stephen Thorpe

Posted
Posted

good work, all the best.

As for the polarity, it will all depend on where the switch is (so to speak) to find out if it will drive the right way. Don't think you want it to drive the wrong way.

you should be able to work out that fairly easily without connecting it first.

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