Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Hi Flo Or R33 Turbo Upgrade


shinobichart
 Share

Recommended Posts

Fitting the std 33 turbo will be cheaper, high flowing your 20 turbo will cost lots, i called turbo tech a while back when i screwed my turbo and they wanted a kidney.... at least....

As far as performance, most people get at least 250 hp at the rears on a std 33 turbo as long as you have some for of fuel controlling device ie SAFC or something... as for high flowed 20 you would probably have to dig about for the results.

Reliability, the 33 turbo is still standard and can (im not saying they all do) shart a rear turbine wheel off... The high flow would be steel wheels and capable of longer life and higher boost. std 33 turbos dont really like 15 pounds of boobs. I do.

Ive personally gone from a std 20 turbo, to a std 33 turbo and now a high flowed 33 turbo, the high flow 33 turbo is un-goddam-believeable, the power up the top end is awesome, but at the same time ,smooth.

At a guess i'd say the high flowed 20 would be better for midrange?

Hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good luck with it all.

Be prepared to have a few bolts snap, or gasket replacement, or, and this is my personal favourite, "you have snapped manifold bolts, 4 to be precise".... or generally some form of pain in the ass. 32's are known for the "EXTRA WORK NEEDED" line from your mechanic.... *looks at my wallet* >_<

Still there is nothing quite like it when all of a sudden at 3500 rpm it pushes you back into the seat.

ENJOY!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

33 turbo for cheap horsepower (get a series 1 item, mine has been going hard on my RB20 and now RB30). ~250rwhp out of an untuned RB20, just make sure you have a new fuel pump as the old stocker probably won't keep up.

VG30 turbo is the same size as an RB25 Neo turbo.

I have a neo hiflow on my Stag, it's stupidly large, takes ages to spool but makes 320awhp @ 12psi.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nissan went with the nylon wheel to get it to spool faster. I really don't think they had people running them at 12-14psi in mind.

Ask around and see how many people have blown series2 turbo's when winding a bit of boost into them.. my series1 turbo has been running 12psi on my RB20 for over a year and now on my RB30 for 1.5years, still going strong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have seen countless topics on max boost for the rb25 turbo, to be honest i havent notcied any larger number in s2 failures then s1 but that doesnt mean your not wrong. I have seen lots of results comparing 10psi to 14psi and the max power figure didnt change, however the midrange was improved on the higher psi runs. So then in theory if the S2 turbo spools up quicker as you say, then that would be an improvement in the midrange without needing to up the boost anyways. But thats just my opinion at the end of the day i cant say for sure but thats just what i reckon. Sauwa wouldnt be the same if i didnt get to disagree with you Bubba. :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

HOW DARE YOU DISAGREE WITH ME?! :(

Nah, a couple of members had their s2 turbos shit themselves not longer after they got the cars and wound some boost in.

The main thing that goes in RB20/25 turbos is the exhaust turbine (due to it being ceramic and seeing excessive heat when leant on). I have seen failures of the compressor wheel in s2 turbos but not in s1 (probably due to the fact that it is a steel wheel).

Lastly, if mine can survive the hammering it took on my RB20 AND survive the hammering on the RB30 (where it is actually a restriction, I'm sure the thing must glow when I spend much time around 6000rpm!) it must be a good thing :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a LOT of stuff that can be done, it all depends on how much time and money you want to spend on doing in.  Not all ECUs will be able to do it, and the more control you need the more time and knowledge needs to be put into making it work.  If you're willing to spend the time and money and have the right hardware and skills involved there's a lot that can be done. 
    • I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
    • so you can decrease or increase the boost depending on the diet as you wish?     by acting on the wastegate?
    • That's torque and power, it's all from a single run.  The boost curve is "held back" from it's peak target in the 3500rpm to 5000rpm range from memory, so it ramps hard to something like 18psi then climbs more progressively to 23psi nearer 5000rpm.   It makes the torque (and power) ramp more "natural" and less hard on parts and traction, it doesn't feel artificially held back.   
×
×
  • Create New...