Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fitting the std 33 turbo will be cheaper, high flowing your 20 turbo will cost lots, i called turbo tech a while back when i screwed my turbo and they wanted a kidney.... at least....

As far as performance, most people get at least 250 hp at the rears on a std 33 turbo as long as you have some for of fuel controlling device ie SAFC or something... as for high flowed 20 you would probably have to dig about for the results.

Reliability, the 33 turbo is still standard and can (im not saying they all do) shart a rear turbine wheel off... The high flow would be steel wheels and capable of longer life and higher boost. std 33 turbos dont really like 15 pounds of boobs. I do.

Ive personally gone from a std 20 turbo, to a std 33 turbo and now a high flowed 33 turbo, the high flow 33 turbo is un-goddam-believeable, the power up the top end is awesome, but at the same time ,smooth.

At a guess i'd say the high flowed 20 would be better for midrange?

Hope this helps.

Good luck with it all.

Be prepared to have a few bolts snap, or gasket replacement, or, and this is my personal favourite, "you have snapped manifold bolts, 4 to be precise".... or generally some form of pain in the ass. 32's are known for the "EXTRA WORK NEEDED" line from your mechanic.... *looks at my wallet* >_<

Still there is nothing quite like it when all of a sudden at 3500 rpm it pushes you back into the seat.

ENJOY!

33 turbo for cheap horsepower (get a series 1 item, mine has been going hard on my RB20 and now RB30). ~250rwhp out of an untuned RB20, just make sure you have a new fuel pump as the old stocker probably won't keep up.

VG30 turbo is the same size as an RB25 Neo turbo.

I have a neo hiflow on my Stag, it's stupidly large, takes ages to spool but makes 320awhp @ 12psi.

Nissan went with the nylon wheel to get it to spool faster. I really don't think they had people running them at 12-14psi in mind.

Ask around and see how many people have blown series2 turbo's when winding a bit of boost into them.. my series1 turbo has been running 12psi on my RB20 for over a year and now on my RB30 for 1.5years, still going strong.

I have seen countless topics on max boost for the rb25 turbo, to be honest i havent notcied any larger number in s2 failures then s1 but that doesnt mean your not wrong. I have seen lots of results comparing 10psi to 14psi and the max power figure didnt change, however the midrange was improved on the higher psi runs. So then in theory if the S2 turbo spools up quicker as you say, then that would be an improvement in the midrange without needing to up the boost anyways. But thats just my opinion at the end of the day i cant say for sure but thats just what i reckon. Sauwa wouldnt be the same if i didnt get to disagree with you Bubba. :(

HOW DARE YOU DISAGREE WITH ME?! :(

Nah, a couple of members had their s2 turbos shit themselves not longer after they got the cars and wound some boost in.

The main thing that goes in RB20/25 turbos is the exhaust turbine (due to it being ceramic and seeing excessive heat when leant on). I have seen failures of the compressor wheel in s2 turbos but not in s1 (probably due to the fact that it is a steel wheel).

Lastly, if mine can survive the hammering it took on my RB20 AND survive the hammering on the RB30 (where it is actually a restriction, I'm sure the thing must glow when I spend much time around 6000rpm!) it must be a good thing :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Strangely I noticed it either disappear later in the day, or not be present. I definitely noticed when I was crawling around that open wheel thingy entering the pits (that part was audible in car). Driving home and commuting around town for example, I didn't hear it. It's plausible that it was a brake disc or something still slightly in contact. The brakes absolutely felt BAD for the first couple of sessions, huge amounts of shudder and grinding as they got up to temp - And then I actually just forgot about it as the day went on/didn't notice it. The videos were from the morning when this was more present than the afternoon/drive home when it wasn't. I've asked around and got a variety of responses including handbrake shoe contacting hub, CV joints, CB tailshaft bearing as above, and clutch input bearing. I didn't test if it disappeared when clutch was in. I haven't noticed it in any of the other videos nor did I notice it when driving to that extent. More or less hoping the microphone at the rear license plate giving some kind of clue of 'something' but it looks like "spin stuff and see if you can notice it" is the way forward here. I could be smart and use the gopro mic and re-mount it to that location to see if the sound is still present at low speed actually. Sounds like a decent test whenver I have the CBF'ness to drive the car again. Given it's almost 40C for the day of the track day and the next 3 days after, the CBF is high. All I've done since getting home is unpack the car, remove the remnants of the lip and undertray and left it there. I was surprised how well the PMU Club Racers actually worked. The brake performance on the track was absolutely fantastic, best I've ever personally used, no fade whatsoever and the bitiness was almost too good, I was scrubbing more speed off than I needed to, but I also ended up infield when I started trying to scrape off ... less speed.... so...
    • Not really, no. Anything you would do is easily reversible.
    • I would like more noise related info for my truly uneducated guess  Does it do it at idle or when revving, clutch engaged, and disengaged? Does it only do it when the car is moving? I've heard "similar" noises from a clutch pack that left the chat room, and CV joints that have chewed themselves out But as Matt said, how's the yokes, tailshaft and centre bearing going after their last little issue Fingers crossed it is something simple  Weird noises make me cringe 
    • One other question, is there a chance that changing the idle speed can lead you down a rabbit hole and is the reason the tuner didn't touch it? Reason I ask is because if that's the reason the tuner avoided it then I probably shouldn't be touching it lol.
    • Pfft. As if I'd ever point a high pressure washer at my car.
×
×
  • Create New...