Jump to content
SAU Community

Series 2 Rotor Clarification

AndyD

By AndyD,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mr GTS4 Mentor

Mr GTS4

Posted
Posted

ok i have S2 RS4 Stagea with R33 slotted rotors and brakes all round.. the rears bolt on no drama's and i got braided lines made up for them.

the standard stagea calipers use a m14 bolt and the R33 runs a m12 ( r34 uses the m14 which makes a direct swap) so i had some 2mm x 20mm sleeves made up to make the m12 bolt sit nicley inside the hub. you also need to remove the restrictor ( well thats what i'm calling it anyway ) inside the caliper using a small screw then the standard brake lines wil bolt up as normal..

as far as i got i could not find anyone that could make up braided lines for the fronts as they run from one side of the hub to the other using a series of brackets and steels pipes, so yeah no go so far.

any more info just let me know

Curt

  • 9 years later...
bentwagon Experienced

bentwagon

Posted
Posted

Could anyone confirm if theses will be a replacement rear disc brake rotor for Nissan Stagea, Series 2 C34 build 2000. 

Working from a set of Dixcels for sale to fit above vehicle, part number 3252006 with the following specs:

Outer Diameter - 300mm

Thickness - 22mm

Height - 63mm

Holes - 5

PCD - 114.3

 

Protex have same specification - part number DR929 (listed to fit Skyline R32 GT-R, R33 GT-R and R34 GT-R).  This is a cheaper alternative to the Dixcels.

 

As mentioned before - would like confirmation these are the correct specs to replace existing on a Series 2 rear disc rotor.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Potential MAP Reference Point

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Isn't there a fitting on the back of the balance tube? That's what the OEM boost gauge uses.
    • GTSBoy
      Potential MAP Reference Point

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      He's still joining you, he's just delayed it and won't have the fulleh sick ITBs...
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GTT front hood lip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The strange thing is this is a URAS front bumper (or clone of it). The bumper actually does not sit flush with the GTT hood - You need the addon to make the hood 'long' enough to reach the bumper. I have no idea why they didn't incorporate this piece into the bumper itself.. instead of sticking it to the hood instead.
    • AdiR34
      R34 GTT front hood lip

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
×
×
  • Create New...