Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Turbos were going bad on my R32 GTR so I replaced them with stock R33 turbos. The very first time I started it the hicas light came on and the steering was heavy.

So I pulled back into the garage thinking that I didn't tighten up the belt or the fluid level was low. After popping the bonnet and poking around a little I couldn't find anything wrong. Belt is new. Fluid looks clean and is full. Pump looks fine. No leaks. So I took the car out hoping that it just clear up on its own. No change after 10-20 km of driving.

I live in the USA and it's difficult to source new RB parts. I really don't want to replace the pump unless I know it's bad. Is there anything else I can check before spending money on a new pump?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255196-power-steering-failure/
Share on other sites

well mate it all comes back to basic common sence.... was the pump working b4 u changed the turbos.... do the turbos have nethin to do with power steering. obviously sumthing uve missed here cuz ps pumps dont just shit emselves sitting still

Edited by skylinekid
is the passenger side wheel speed sensor plugged in...its down near where you were working. This item not plugged in will disable the hicas.

The connector right in front of the ABS unit? Blue wires? Looks good... Pulled it apart and put it back together just to make sure.

well mate it all comes back to basic common sence.... was the pump working b4 u changed the turbos.... do the turbos have nethin to do with power steering. obviously sumthing uve missed here cuz ps pumps dont just shit emselves sitting still

I'm just banging my head on the wall trying to figure out what I broke while I was swapping turbos. :P

Edited by DanShirts
The connector right in front of the ABS unit? Blue wires? Looks good... Pulled it apart and put it back together just to make sure.

I'm just banging my head on the wall trying to figure out what I broke while I was swapping turbos. :P

its the small one that goes through the inner guard near the brake line to the passenger side front brakes. Its lower than the ABS down near the chassis rail

is it possible to do a diagnostics check...

Yes it is, and it's the first thing to do before trying to 'guess' where the problem lies.

DanShirts - suggest doing a search on these forums for 'HICAS diagnostics' as I'm sure someone will have posted the procedure + error codes previously.

Also suggest you get a hold of a workshop manual as all this is covered (I'm sure it's available for download from somewhere.......)

Yes it is, and it's the first thing to do before trying to 'guess' where the problem lies.

DanShirts - suggest doing a search on these forums for 'HICAS diagnostics' as I'm sure someone will have posted the procedure + error codes previously.

Also suggest you get a hold of a workshop manual as all this is covered (I'm sure it's available for download from somewhere.......)

I found the post about hicas diagnostic, but the car wont go into diag mode. (?) I must have tried 6 or 7 times. I will try again tomorrow when I have more time.

  • 2 weeks later...
Is there another way I can get the codes?

No, you'll just have to keep trying. If you hadn't touched the steering wheel, etc as part of the other work, it seems unlikely that would be the problem, BUT it might be possible. Before randomly swapping parts tho, I'd be going through every connector + checking all hoses and pipes, as it seems that your problem is related to the turbo install (particularly if everything was fine beforehand, apart from the turbo's themselves).

One of the relays in the boot is having trouble. It clicks about once every 30 seconds. It's very quiet and I wouldn't have noticed it if didn't get into the boot when the car was running.

Part number 25230-05U00. Fast calls it is the "Anti Skid Relay". I'm pretty confident that this relay (or the wiring or whatever it's connected to) is the problem. I will post again when I have more information.

Edited by DanShirts

Got it fixed. The relay connector was bad, but that wasn't the problem. The 12v wire that goes to the steering angle sensor had a break right next to the connector. Patched and running strong!

Thanks for all the help!

Edited by DanShirts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...