Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i think mine is 5 hole? ill have to double check.

if all goes well im going to buy a R33 GTST ABS diff with half shafts tomorrow.

also one more thing, will the R33 diff bolt to the R34 GT25 NA tailshaft?

yeh my NA R34 is open centre, 1 wheel spins only :P

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i think mine is 5 hole? ill have to double check.

if all goes well im going to buy a R33 GTST ABS diff with half shafts tomorrow.

also one more thing, will the R33 diff bolt to the R34 GT25 NA tailshaft?

yeh my NA R34 is open centre, 1 wheel spins only :ninja:

Let me know how it all goes once you get it done man, or do a write up, im getting tempted to weld my centre :P

^ don't weld it mate, makes daily driving a big fken nuisance (sp??) i had a locked diff in my old silvia, it was fun but very very annoying!

lockers have never really bothered me to drive with, probly a personal preferance, but i have resisted the urge to lock it n id rather sort out an lsd, so let me know how yours goes

good news, fits 100%!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

for all you 25GT guys out there, rush out and buy a R33 GTST ABS DIFF, Auto preferbly (as its got teh same ratio, 4.363) otherwise a manual 4.11 will just be fine as long as its got ABS.

:D:) can do sick skids now!

f**king Excellent! My GT will do 2's with a bit of brake feather, but goes back to single as soon as you get more than like 30 degrees of angle, i know whats next on my shopping list :D

EDIT: do the stock driveshafts bolt up?

Edited by Silver_GT

yes, stock driveshafts bolt straight up, as long as you get a 5 hole type.

ive read up that the GTST ones are stronger then the 25GT but in a NA, it doesn't really matter as its not packing much power & wont know till it breaks and i replace it with a GTST item.

Yeah thats what i thought dan, pretty much the whole suspension in a 25GT is pretty much identical a R33 GTST.

great stuff, most of the r33 and r34 stuff is interchangable. When you say that you use the stock driveshafts, do you mean that you used the stock gtst 5 bolt rear shafts? Its just every r33 na diff runs the 3x2 bolt rear shafts, the same as my r34 diff atm.

If anyone else wants to do the conversion, best to use the stock gtst manual diff, the auto diff has a ratio close to 3.5:1 which isnt very nice for a low torque engine like the rb25de

I'll be putting the r32 gtr mechanical diff in my r34 in the next few months, i'll let you guys know how it goes.

Congrates, now for some skids :)

great stuff, most of the r33 and r34 stuff is interchangable. When you say that you use the stock driveshafts, do you mean that you used the stock gtst 5 bolt rear shafts? Its just every r33 na diff runs the 3x2 bolt rear shafts, the same as my r34 diff atm.

If anyone else wants to do the conversion, best to use the stock gtst manual diff, the auto diff has a ratio close to 3.5:1 which isnt very nice for a low torque engine like the rb25de

I'll be putting the r32 gtr mechanical diff in my r34 in the next few months, i'll let you guys know how it goes.

Congrates, now for some skids

i used the stock R34 drive shafts (mine had 5 hole type not 3x2 hole). i thought the auto diff was a higher ratio, like 4.363? (thats what my search uncovered and manual is 4.11) I know R32 GTST run 3x2hole half/drive shafts

i used the stock R34 drive shafts (mine had 5 hole type not 3x2 hole). i thought the auto diff was a higher ratio, like 4.363? (thats what my search uncovered and manual is 4.11) I know R32 GTST run 3x2hole half/drive shafts

really 5bolt shafts? my r34 diff is the crap 3x2, must have something to do with the gtfour model.

4.3ish:1 ratio is the manual gts4, 4.11 is the gtr. Autos are definately much much taller gears, around the 3.5:1

Theres a bloke i use to know that had a auto diff in his r33 (was converted to manual) and the gears on that was redicously long, as in you wouldnt bother going back to 2nd at 50km/hr to give it some shit, you go back to 1st :/

Definately wont go well with a na skiz, way way too slow

My diff has a 3x2 shaft setup and its just a normal 2wd 25gt.I am now actually confused as to what diff I actually have, All i know is 2way diff ftw :D ...

All I want now is a set of 4.3 gears to make my car accelerate a little bit quicker...

Does anyone have some for sale here in brisbane?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
    • So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels.  The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for    
    • I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.
    • That's less offensive than the previous gen.....except for all that ugly black tupperware around the edges. Blerck!
    • I leant out the window recently and took a picture of this new WRX. It looked real damn fine in person. It's faster around a track (stock) than a (stock) GR Yaris. It's much more practical despite being heavier. It's significantly cheaper. This gen tunes really well, much better than others. .... I think they're probably a lot better than people expect.
×
×
  • Create New...