Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

there used to be a white vz ute that lived in my area with an RB26 in it, and let me tell you it was not slow anymore it munched everything, though respect was lost for the shell :P

Edited by HI2U

it would handle like crap, and not just because of the live axle. Why would you want all that extra weight hanging past the front axle line? Sif replace a V6 with an inline 6....

On a crusie on Saturday night just gone, there was a guy in an RB26DETT powered Patrol that was pretty awesome. Chucked four rooster tails in the dirt about 20 feet high :(

Oh, and there is a RB25DET powered HQ Kingswood here in Perth that is pretty sweet

*rummages*

MV09045.jpg

Actually, an RB into Commodores is quite a common fitment because (from what I've read and heard) it's pretty much just changing the engine crossmember.

Dale, I'd rather a smooth inline 6 than that shitty excuse for an engine the Commodore V6 was, even with the changed weight distribuition...

Not that I'd do it - screw even owning a Commodore in the first place! :)

god knows why ppl do this. someone must like it though cos its sold. sure it would be ok in a vl. but the lack of low rpm torque from the 2.5 would drive me nuts. actually thats the only thing i hate about my stagea. twin turbo 3.8L @ 14psi FTW!!! the engine bay pic is my commo. let the flaming begin!! :banana::);)

post-41608-1233656112_thumb.jpg

there was a RB25 powered VS ute around perth a while ago.. the owner now has a VQ30 powered 32 4 door.

apparently it was just a matter of swapping the front cross member over to a VL one, and a few other minor changes, and it was in.

ps.. that purple/polished engine bay looks awesome brad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 95 is just a scam outright. 98 is the real "premium" with all the best detergents and other additive packages, and at least historically, used to be more dense also. 95 is just 91 bargain basement shit with a little extra octane rating. Of course, there's 91 and there's 91 also. I always (back in the 90s early 2000s) refused to put fuel in from supermarket related fuel chains on the basis that it was nasty half arsed shit imported from Indonesia. Nowadays, I suspect that there is little difference between the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the "bargain" chains and the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the big brands, given that most of it is coming from the same SEAsian refineries. Anyway - if there's still anything to that logic, then it would apply to 95 also. 98 is only made in decent refineries and, as I said, is usually the "premium" fuel, both in terms of octane rating and "use this because it's good for your engine because it's got the unicorn jizz in it!".
    • Yeah since those first 2 replies I actually went and put some 98 in it and tbf it's already doing much better than the 95 (which is weird and makes my inner tinfoil hat wearer think the 95 was a crap batch), getting 8ish around town. Again, wonder if it takes a while to stabilize if the fuel is changed a couple of times. I swear cars used to just either run "well" or "s**t* in my 20s, none of this fuel optimisation business haha 
    • Any number of different ways. Have the coils draw sufficient current to provide contact wetting. Use different contacts in the switch, either by material or design, better suited to the low current drawn by a relay coil. Etc.
    • Hmm, how does the R34 manage to have headlight relays then without getting excessive carbon buildup on the headlight switch contacts?
    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
×
×
  • Create New...