Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys was hoping to accompany the help of u guys to help me find threads that will help me with my rb25det conversion into my r32 gtst. iv found one thread so far but it doesnt really help u just tells u a bit of what needs to be done. if there is a step by step procudeure or detailed description of what needs to be done very grsateful if u could post it up so i can get my conv done asap so i get the driftpig back out of track

thanx guys

Edited by Harry-Hotpants
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255617-rb25det-into-an-r32/
Share on other sites

Remove RB20.

Drop RB25 in (complete with RB25 engine harness and ecu).

Connect everything.

Drive away.

If you want to do the gearbox aswell, there are many threads in the Drivetrain section in regards to putting 25t gearboxes in R32 GTSt's.

Use the same mounts but use the RB25 engine harness and ECU (ecu obviously but I think the difference between the harness is the injectors wires are the other way round or something like that).

Climate control should be fine, haven't heard otherwise.

If you really wanted to, you could swap the wires to the injectors and run it on the RB20 ECU (as it is easier to remap) but you wouldn't have VVT.

Greg, same *should* apply to your GTS4. Just re-use all the mounts etc, though I'm not sure if there would be any dramas with the RB25 ecu needing to talk to the ATTESSA computer at all..

We put a twincam 30 in my mates GTS4 but I believe that is running on a GTR powerfc.

I would also not bother with the dualstage solenoid boost control (stock 33 setup), just put your RB20 actuator on and plumb straight to that.

Edited by bubba

bubba: in regards to the physical work im 100% clued in its the wiring changes that have to be made re: rb25 engien loom connecting to r32 body loom and also what is to be done re: changing speedo cable to electronic for the dash etc

If you already know what needs to be done, why were you asking then?

What exactly do you mean about changing speedo cable to electronic for the dash?

Are you putting a 25t gearbox in too?

It's not rocket doctory :)

If he's keeping his RB20 gearbox then he doesn't need to change anything.

If he is putting a 25t box in then he can't re-use the RB20 sender.

I'm not exactly sure what he was getting at with the sender question, hence why I asked for clarification :banana:

Edited by bubba

yeh i am putting in the rb25 box in aswell. i didnt kno whether the rb20 ccable will mate into the rb25 box of if i have to use the electronic setup from the rb25 box and make changes with my cluster. i need to kno what changes need to be made regarding mating the rb25 engine loom to the r32 chassis loom etc.

also "cmoney" ur link isnt working for me.... :domokun:

Edited by Harry-Hotpants

Have you searched at all dude? I know there's at least one thread on RB25 into R32 and I know there's a few threads on 25t boxes into R32 GTSt's, in those I, among others, documented what we did.

No offence mate but the search function is there for a reason.. so we don't have to keep typing out essays :( if you have any specific questions, shoot me a PM :)

i believe this is what you are looking for

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...RB25+conversion

btw, if u are looking for a 25det pfc and wiring harness, ill have one mid year for sale

Edited by ahh 33 s2

bubba i am specifically looking for the changes that may/need to be made in regards to the rb25 engine loom into the r32 body loom, that is what i have not yet been able to find. i did state that above

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...amp;pid=4378780

Wiring

Wiring is pretty straight forward if you have the correct diagrams and ecu pin outs. I'd recommend using the RB25 loom and ECU, which is what I used. This a) allows easy engineering to meet polution standards b) Allows you to run the cheaper and more readily available RB25 powerFC. Once you can get the stock ECU working fine, just drop in the PowerFc and it should work right away.

I won't go through the whole lot here, but a few things to note.

1. Grey wire near the main engine bay plug is your 12v constant injector feed. Make sure this is hooked up to a 12v line. Without this the car won't start.

2. It's not a bad idea to splice in your original engine bay resistor (passenger strut tower, silver block thing) from the rb20 loom back through the firewall and to the thick black and white wires of the r32 body loom. This provides backup ground to your fuel pump incase you lose the grounding in the boot area. It will work without it, but is a valuable safety measure which is worth keeping if you value the engine.

3. Use the O2 sensor from an RB25. I believe the R32 one is different. Effects fuel economy

4. To get the wipers working, you can use the r33 loom plug as a direct fit into your wiper.

There is another plug nearby which looks similar. You'll need to connect the orange in this plug as well or your wipers won't turn off once turned on until IGN is turned off Cut the orange up near the plug, and run a wire to this through the firewall, and this connects to one of the wider R32 body loom plugs. There is like a thick orange and a thick green next to each other. Connect this to the orange. This turns the wipers off when you whack the wiper switch back to "off". Took a while to work this out.

You also need to attach 12v IGN source to blue w/ red stripe on that plug. Hook the black with silver blotches to GND (or chasis).

The rest of the r33 plug is 'spare' and the other wires can be left disconnected down near the r33 ecu part of the loom as well.. On the R33 it connects to a brown junction box on the passenger side...but on the R32, this is on the driver side and can stay there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr  another to bov  and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?
    • From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up Which, is not what happened. 1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own 2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted. 3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper) 4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump. 5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v.  I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue. Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit.
    • 3rd time lucky, the AAC is now all plumbed up after getting some final fittings All set up under the plenum of maximum access
    • OK, so the weight has been bugging because it was really low. I did it again today and got a more believable answer at 1246 without driver And with a 93kg driver I'm pretty sure the car was still slightly on the quickjack last time meaning the full weight was not on the scales  
×
×
  • Create New...