Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25det Into An R32


Harry-Hotpants
 Share

Recommended Posts

hey guys was hoping to accompany the help of u guys to help me find threads that will help me with my rb25det conversion into my r32 gtst. iv found one thread so far but it doesnt really help u just tells u a bit of what needs to be done. if there is a step by step procudeure or detailed description of what needs to be done very grsateful if u could post it up so i can get my conv done asap so i get the driftpig back out of track

thanx guys

Edited by Harry-Hotpants
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Remove RB20.

Drop RB25 in (complete with RB25 engine harness and ecu).

Connect everything.

Drive away.

If you want to do the gearbox aswell, there are many threads in the Drivetrain section in regards to putting 25t gearboxes in R32 GTSt's.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Use the same mounts but use the RB25 engine harness and ECU (ecu obviously but I think the difference between the harness is the injectors wires are the other way round or something like that).

Climate control should be fine, haven't heard otherwise.

If you really wanted to, you could swap the wires to the injectors and run it on the RB20 ECU (as it is easier to remap) but you wouldn't have VVT.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Greg, same *should* apply to your GTS4. Just re-use all the mounts etc, though I'm not sure if there would be any dramas with the RB25 ecu needing to talk to the ATTESSA computer at all..

We put a twincam 30 in my mates GTS4 but I believe that is running on a GTR powerfc.

I would also not bother with the dualstage solenoid boost control (stock 33 setup), just put your RB20 actuator on and plumb straight to that.

Edited by bubba
Link to comment
Share on other sites

bubba: in regards to the physical work im 100% clued in its the wiring changes that have to be made re: rb25 engien loom connecting to r32 body loom and also what is to be done re: changing speedo cable to electronic for the dash etc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you already know what needs to be done, why were you asking then?

What exactly do you mean about changing speedo cable to electronic for the dash?

Are you putting a 25t gearbox in too?

It's not rocket doctory :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If he's keeping his RB20 gearbox then he doesn't need to change anything.

If he is putting a 25t box in then he can't re-use the RB20 sender.

I'm not exactly sure what he was getting at with the sender question, hence why I asked for clarification :banana:

Edited by bubba
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeh i am putting in the rb25 box in aswell. i didnt kno whether the rb20 ccable will mate into the rb25 box of if i have to use the electronic setup from the rb25 box and make changes with my cluster. i need to kno what changes need to be made regarding mating the rb25 engine loom to the r32 chassis loom etc.

also "cmoney" ur link isnt working for me.... :domokun:

Edited by Harry-Hotpants
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you searched at all dude? I know there's at least one thread on RB25 into R32 and I know there's a few threads on 25t boxes into R32 GTSt's, in those I, among others, documented what we did.

No offence mate but the search function is there for a reason.. so we don't have to keep typing out essays :( if you have any specific questions, shoot me a PM :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...amp;pid=4378780

Wiring

Wiring is pretty straight forward if you have the correct diagrams and ecu pin outs. I'd recommend using the RB25 loom and ECU, which is what I used. This a) allows easy engineering to meet polution standards b) Allows you to run the cheaper and more readily available RB25 powerFC. Once you can get the stock ECU working fine, just drop in the PowerFc and it should work right away.

I won't go through the whole lot here, but a few things to note.

1. Grey wire near the main engine bay plug is your 12v constant injector feed. Make sure this is hooked up to a 12v line. Without this the car won't start.

2. It's not a bad idea to splice in your original engine bay resistor (passenger strut tower, silver block thing) from the rb20 loom back through the firewall and to the thick black and white wires of the r32 body loom. This provides backup ground to your fuel pump incase you lose the grounding in the boot area. It will work without it, but is a valuable safety measure which is worth keeping if you value the engine.

3. Use the O2 sensor from an RB25. I believe the R32 one is different. Effects fuel economy

4. To get the wipers working, you can use the r33 loom plug as a direct fit into your wiper.

There is another plug nearby which looks similar. You'll need to connect the orange in this plug as well or your wipers won't turn off once turned on until IGN is turned off Cut the orange up near the plug, and run a wire to this through the firewall, and this connects to one of the wider R32 body loom plugs. There is like a thick orange and a thick green next to each other. Connect this to the orange. This turns the wipers off when you whack the wiper switch back to "off". Took a while to work this out.

You also need to attach 12v IGN source to blue w/ red stripe on that plug. Hook the black with silver blotches to GND (or chasis).

The rest of the r33 plug is 'spare' and the other wires can be left disconnected down near the r33 ecu part of the loom as well.. On the R33 it connects to a brown junction box on the passenger side...but on the R32, this is on the driver side and can stay there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You need the kit turbo taipan has shown you because that manifold ia designed have side feed injectors 
    • @johnnysr22 did you end up installing the little screen thingy and did it work ?>   
    • There is a LOT of stuff that can be done, it all depends on how much time and money you want to spend on doing in.  Not all ECUs will be able to do it, and the more control you need the more time and knowledge needs to be put into making it work.  If you're willing to spend the time and money and have the right hardware and skills involved there's a lot that can be done. 
    • I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
×
×
  • Create New...