Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

just got my rb25 going, it was a stagea motor and ive put a 2wd sump on,

so i noticed that the rb25 dip stick is shorter than rb20? is this because of the sump for the awd system is smaller, so thats why you have a shorter stick to make up the the loss of oil?

reason i ask is because when i first start my car oil pressure goes up to 5-6kg/2 (hope thats the right measure) but when its fully warm and idling at 750-800 rpm it sits on 2kg, it may only be going up to 6 because its a pretty thick oil and the fact that its going through a oil cooler and relocate kit?

oil im using is penrite Sinthetic 5, 5-50w or 60w can remeber what its called, on the website they reccomend using a semi sinthetic HPR10 or HPR5?

should i not worry about the size of dipstick and leave oil at the hieght according to the stick?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255629-rb25det-dipstick/
Share on other sites

Oil level in the sump and oil pessure are totally unrelated (until you don't have enough oil in the sump to pump it around!) The oil pressure is a function of the oil itself.

A 50 or 60 grade oil is too "heavy" for a RB25, you should be using a 30 or 40, ie 0-30 / 5-30 / 5-40 / 10-40.

duno about the 4wd sump, but eevrytime i change my oil, i put in the whole 5 litres and the oil mark is dead on the line. plus the oil filter is usualy an extra 500 or so ML

on a side note, mine when warm idling oil pressure is on 3 - 3.5kg

tru well i was just checking, i think ive put it 4.5L so yeah, i think it should be fine, the only reason about oil pressure and amount you put in, is the fact that i used to work at subaru and i remember an guy doing a home service on his wrx, he over filled the oil a shitload and it lost comp in one piston because of it,

so i think it would be fine,

as for oil, use a 5-40 oil? royal purple or something,

Cheers JV

my rb25 takes 4.5L of oil, that takes it to the full line, would at least start with that much,

as for oil im using a valvoline 5w-30 dura blend, maybe gone through 6-7 oil changes using

it and never had a prob

  SiR_RB said:
duno about the 4wd sump, but eevrytime i change my oil, i put in the whole 5 litres and the oil mark is dead on the line. plus the oil filter is usualy an extra 500 or so ML

on a side note, mine when warm idling oil pressure is on 3 - 3.5kg

Thats too much pressure, you sure you got it right? 2 is OK at idle, 3.5 to 4 at cruise and 4+ above say 3000rpm.

Thankyou :)

With my N1 pump, no restrictors and 10W50 oil I see (when warm) 10-20psi at idle depending on oil temp and an extra 20psi for every 1000rpm (so 30-40psi @ 2000rpm, 50-60psi @ 3000rpm, 70-80psi @ 4000rpm and anything over that is pretty much 100psi).

See Bubba it wasn't hard to drag you into the 21st Century.......was it!!! Only been metric since 1975!!! lol

So you have 1 to 1.5 at idle, 2 to 3 at 2000rpm, 3.5 to 4.2 at 3000rpm and then ever onwards and upwards, thats pretty much what I have [and said]. So we either have two engines about to let go, or its normal.........I vote normal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I also think it comes down to the dollars spent for quality items, there's some cheapie versions out there, which look fine, but, there are versions of much higher quality out there, but, you obviously pay more for the quality of materials used and quality control When I first got work done by Advan Performance on my old R33 the silicone joiners were cheapies and actually blew out on a joiner heading to the plenum, when I then took it to Unigroup they said that the silicone hoses they used and were junk, Unigroup replaced every hose on the engine with much higher quality items and from then I never had a issue with any hose Additional cost and quality gets you quality silicone base materials and quality reinforcement fabric stuff As for OEM rubber hoses, again, quality materials and strict quality control will give you quality hoses, but only to OEM spec, I believe using quality silicone replacements is a upgrade I  saying this I have only dealt with vehicles I own and play with
    • Not gonna lie my sense of smell isn't the best. But it does look more grey to me. It doesn't smell like oil, friend says it smells like fuel.
    • That's it. Too rich for me. I'm out. If it does start to sell in pieces, I'll probably register an interest in the diff & axles, gearbox & tailshaft, and maybe the brakes.
    • I tried my best, well I see how it is though... It's time to be ruthless! I'll up my bid with a JVC sub and an amp to run it, 8 stainless steel drink coasters with a rubber backing, and a photo of Tom Cruise. Oh, I can increase the cash portion by 20 cents if that helps. 
    • Or if it's grey, is it watery? Does it do it after you've been for like an hour long drive it will still do it, or just near the start of the trip? As GTS said, does it seem like oil (blue), water (white/grey) or fuel (black)? Sometimes the colour can be hard to see clearly too for what it is, as GTS says, what's it smell like?
×
×
  • Create New...