Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Springs

gebba54

By gebba54,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

gebba54 Collaborator

gebba54

Posted
Posted

I'm hoping someone who got the sk group buy springs can clear something up for me.

I have read through the suspension thread and of the "STAGEA SPECIFIC" whiteline springs,

but the part no's mentioned by SK are 83159(front) and 70191(rear) and are R33 GTR, R32 GTS according to the whiteline catalogue.

Are there STAGEA specific springs or are they the same as the skyline.

cheers

g

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255856-stagea-springs/
Share on other sites
260tech Proficient

260tech

Posted
Posted
I'm hoping someone who got the sk group buy springs can clear something up for me.

I have read through the suspension thread and of the "STAGEA SPECIFIC" whiteline springs,

but the part no's mentioned by SK are 83159(front) and 70191(rear) and are R33 GTR, R32 GTS according to the whiteline catalogue.

Are there STAGEA specific springs or are they the same as the skyline.

cheers

g

I'll dive in ............ target = :thumbsup:

" Are there STAGEA specific springs? Answer is "not sure, there may well be now."

or; are they the same as the skyline. " (Yes, kinda, hard to answer ~ there are a few variations of Skylines, some bits fit.)

Hi there, it is my understanding that early on in the development of the Stagea suspension package group buy SK (after heaps of research, being a diehard Stagea owner & performance suspension engineer), came to the conclusion that the Whiteline springs you list above were a very close/ideal fit to what was needed to optimise/improve factory spring rates. It was also decided that because of low numbers of Stags a specific spring development/factory run would be costly & therefore not practical for the whole purpose of "group buys", especially when there was an already existing Whiteline product "close fit" with the desired spring rates.

So, the part numbers specified are close fit, not especially Stagea specific. Can't remember (fr or rr) now but one set needed to be installed downside up. Some owners opted to keep thier original springs, squeeze them down a bit along with adjustable Bilstein shocks with the extra circlip grooves to obtain desired ride height along with the "bang for buck" Whiteline swaybars which work a treat. Since the package was launched Eibach springs have been offered as an alternative & these are the business but more costly.

Having said all that, there may well now be "Stagea specific" Whiteline springs being produced which do not need to be inverted. Dunno.

Some background, my car was initially around 400/380 dragarse on delivery & chewing out tyres at an alarming rate, so I bought "the works" including the springs listed in your post above, a couple of years ago, couldn't get my head around inverted spring fit on my most precious possession (coulda been front spring set) so I installed my original springs back in with the grooved Bilsteins which worked fine (I wanted not so low ride height anyway for the bush driving ~ lotta carcases on the roads) springs was compressed a fair bit to achieve ride height, visions of spring clamps failing, so when Eibachs were offered as a solution I opted for them. Very happy with the results.

GW

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255856-stagea-springs/#findComment-4413891
Share on other sites
sleeper393 Collaborator

sleeper393

Posted
Posted

if you can afford eibach/ bilstein setup , man you will think the thing is on rails - the best , i have the setup on my falcon cannot praise enough, eibach springs are cold drawn through a die , instead of being heated up and formed , the cold method allows less metal fatigue , thus less chance of the springs sagging over time , german technology . :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255856-stagea-springs/#findComment-4416494
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • silviaz
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      12.8 for a great condition, fully charged battery. If the battery will only ever properly charge to about 12.2V, the battery is well worn, and will be dead soon. When I say properly charge, I mean disconnect it from the car, charge it to its max, and then put your multimeter on it, and see what it reads about an hour later. Dieing batteries will hold a higher "surface charge", but the minutest load, even from just a multimeter (which in the scheme of things is considered totally irrelevant, especially at this level) will be enough over an hour to make the surface charge disappear.   I spend wayyy too much time analysing battery voltages for customers when they whinge that our equipment (telematics device) is causing their battery to drain all the time. Nearly every case I can call it within about 2 months of when the battery will be completely dead. Our bigger customers don't even debate it with me any more ha ha ha. A battery at 12.4 to 12.6 I'd still be happy enough with. However, there's a lot of things that can cause a parasitic draw in a car, first of which is alarms and immobilisers. To start checking, put your multimeter into amps, (and then connect it properly) and measure your power draw with everything off. Typical car battery is about 40aH. Realistically, you'll get about half this before the car won't start. So a 100mA power drain will see you pretty much near unstartable in 8 days.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Car should sit at 12.2 or more, maybe 12.6 or 12.7 when fully charged and happy. If there is a decent enough parasitic load then it will certainly go lower than 12.2 with time. You can't beat physics.
    • silviaz
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be.  If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue. Isn't 12v low, shouldn't it be around 12.5v?
×
×
  • Create New...