26 Oil Pump Solution Thread... [database]

[Tomek]

Have done the search and am yet to find threads delivering all the necessary info which will make me confident that my $$$$$ motor is safe

This thread can prove to be helpful to the people who are building there 26 with today's depreciating currency. Not all of us can go from engine to engine, trial and error is too exxy ...

Asking for input from people in the know.

Anyways here is my dilemma.

After buying my N1 pump, I have decided it's not up to the job, I want to go bigger.

Problem is I've got a stock sump (got jun baffling) so only 5L capacity, i do have an Greddy oil cooler/ relocater, so maybe 5.7L.. The big name pumps have high flow rates so my sump will be consumed rather quickly at High hold RPM applications, overfilling to 6.7L would work but would be a bandaid fix..

Mechanic has recommended if the budget is too tight, I can retain stock balancer and just use shit loads of loctite to keep the bolt tight...

Narrowing it down..

-Hi octane sump with baffling and trap doors in conjuction with Tomei pump and Ati or Ross balancer ; $4-4500 ($300 saving on ross, but quality not as good)

-Above with stock balancer $3700

-Nismo pump with stock sump and my jun baffling $2000, the nismo pump retains standard flow rate.

-External $3000 + sump mods

Im thinking external is the way to go..

(Car is used for street/ track and hill)

If you were building another 26, how would you safeguard it? Keeping in mind today's $ value

Edited February 7, 2009 by Tomek

[R31Nismoid]

How much track and how much hill?

If your under 400rwkw, the setup would go as any other setup that seems to work here...

Racepace does a enlarged sump with N1 pump. Seems to hold up perfectly for everything... (with the street only, like me, keeping stock sumps)

If however you are going to bash the limiter, then indeed you will have problems. The cars for a long time were running stock sumps (no jun/tomei baffles) and i think the point was proven there that it can indeed work (overfill 1ltr)

The oil debate is something that will never end. You spend 3k, and all of a sudden the 4k option is only 25% more expensive, and then the next solution is only a little bit more and so the list goes. You can break any pump, people have and there are a few contributing factors to it all.

With any setup it think it needs to be treated with respect if you still expect it to be a streeter, so hence the above that is done (and the cars are street also) is more than adequate if they are all perfectly fine.

There are a few tricks to it of course as with everything.

[Piggaz]

OK. Another two cents

My situation. Tomei stroker, GT block, RS's running anything up to 1.8 bar on a stock sump and N1 pump. I dont have a head to sump return line and have nver had a problem. I have been on the track and done 25+ laps, oil temps got up to 130 degrees (Motul 15W-50). IF i was to pull the motor out and give it a freshen up (it has only done 11,000 kms on the build) i would put a bigger sump, pump and head return... only because it is out. Make up your own mind...

My car is 99% street driven and never run into any problems.

[shanef]

u can do an external pump for under 3k with a custom sump included (to suit an ati balancer)

if ur serious i can set one up for you, and then just send it up all ready to bolt on

[R31Nismoid]

OK. Another two cents

My situation. Tomei stroker, GT block, RS's running anything up to 1.8 bar on a stock sump and N1 pump. I dont have a head to sump return line and have nver had a problem. I have been on the track and done 25+ laps, oil temps got up to 130 degrees (Motul 15W-50). IF i was to pull the motor out and give it a freshen up (it has only done 11,000 kms on the build) i would put a bigger sump, pump and head return... only because it is out. Make up your own mind...

My car is 99% street driven and never run into any problems.

Were they 25 consecutive?

Or 3 laps, 2 lap break etc?

And do you have an oil cooler, if you don't have a decent oil cooler setup then thats why... if you did then temps might well have been ok

[Tomek]

Car is running a 1.06 housed 35R looking for 420rwkw at max tune, (will run 360-380 daily) Im up North atm for work so Il track it maybe 6 times a year and do weekly hill runs, but if goes well Il be back in Sydney next year where I will track the car as much as possible. I want piece of mind, do it like the germans once and proper.

u can do an external pump for under 3k with a custom sump included (to suit an ati balancer)

if ur serious i can set one up for you, and then just send it up all ready to bolt on

Hey Shane,

Sounds good ... pm sent.

[Piggaz]

Were they 25 consecutive?

Or 3 laps, 2 lap break etc?

And do you have an oil cooler, if you don't have a decent oil cooler setup then thats why... if you did then temps might well have been ok

Nah nah 25 consecutive. I have a 19 row cooler mounted infront of the radiator. On the road i dont see the wrong side of 100 (A blast through the twisties somewhere).

[Risking]

The lattest nitto pumps seem to be standing up to the job as of late. Having much better results with them compared to the JUN offerings.

I personally would never use an integral crank driven pump again but for a streeter you are kinda limited.

If you have to use an integral pump on a circuit car thats going to be abused then use a sensible sized sump as well.

For a lowish RPM sensibly driven circuit car an N1 pump would work fine but there is better.

If your going to do any form of circuit work with it and want it done properly then use an external system. Its still not fool proof as far as oil surge goes but if the sump is built well enough it will be as good as you'll get without a dry sump.

[STATUS]

Every one has their own input on this, just the other week I was looking at a race motor built by stillway in japan with 10k rpm limit and it had a pretty sweet balancer on it, looked stock apart from a far larger centre weight on it. the diameter of the ring was nearly 28cm stock is around 15cm.... this solved all their oil pump failures.

[T04GTR]

did it only have one belt drive? and was heaps chunky, like 30 odd mill thick?

[STATUS]

Nah full set of belts. it was about 4mm - 5mm thick.