Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was told that TPS was dodgy was causing the idling, gearshift problems & tight steering when backing out driveway. So I had to buy tps through Nissan and after a week it turned up. Fitted last thursday, took car for a drive and was no better. Yesterday I checked tps volts via Apexi AVCR, new verses old and there was no real difference??!! New read 1.13v closed & 3.98v open. Old read closed 1.3v & 3.95v open. Does anybody have any tips so car doesn't have to go mechanic on tuesday?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256022-dodgy-tps/
Share on other sites

That fault code could have been there for years, it stays in the memory, even it if it detects a glitch for a split second, ie, tps may have been dissconnected during some maintenance in the past thus logging a code. Best way to check is clear codes first and look for codes that appear repeatedly. You may have several problems, cant see how idle problem can be linked to tight steering.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256022-dodgy-tps/#findComment-4414285
Share on other sites

If the car is idling weirdly and lower than normal the steering will get tighter as the power steering pump isn't being driven fast enough.

I have an after market ecu and for a long time the car would almost die as i came to a stop, or would actually stall at the lights, more so at night with the headlights on. Blamed my tune for ages and kept getting the tuner to retune the issue, wasn't getting charged for it. After a while he noticed that the tps voltage would intermittently "bounce around", at idle. Replaced the TPS and all fixed, idle is alot more stable too.

Have a look at your tps voltage, while the fault is occuring. See if it is changing by itself, without any throttle input. The sensor could be fine, but the throttle shaft, etc, could be loose/worn, causing false readings.

Could also be an ecu issue.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256022-dodgy-tps/#findComment-4414303
Share on other sites

Yer have read those volts needed. Just double checked at computer and had same closed volts as SAFC (1.3v). Just took for a drive. 4wd and check engine light stay on. A/T light flashed 4-5 times on startup. Getting worse!!!

Edited by skidkid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256022-dodgy-tps/#findComment-4414414
Share on other sites

Need to clear all codes first as Chook said...make sure u get the "55" code which is no malfuncton after reset.

TPS fault code is "43" see if you get this once you have reset your ECU.

If still have the code, from the R34 service manual this is how you set the TPS;

1. Rotate sensor body until you get the specified value on your multimeter (specified value is 4.6V). From memory connect one of the middle pin TPS wires and good engine ground.

Do this with;

a) IGN switch "ON"

b) engine NOT running

c) Accelerator pedal not pressed

The TPS code will trigger when the output voltage is 4.7V or greater (open circuit) or less than 0.3V (short circuit) for predetermined time while park/neutral switch is OFF and speed is 4km/hr or higher.

Give it a go and see how you go. Make sure there are no codes left in system once sorted i.e reset ECU again.

Edited by RS4StagMan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256022-dodgy-tps/#findComment-4414826
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...