Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as tittle says, been trying to find some pic's of how it's done..

i know the head is drilled and tapped and a fitting is put in then a return line is fitted and another hole is drilled and tapped to the sump..

where exactly is this done on the head...eg front, left side, right side, back ect..

where exactly is this done on the sump... front, rear ect...

any one got any pics to show us???

Any help much appreciated

Aaron

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256106-head-to-sump-oil-return/
Share on other sites

hey man, from what i can tell it goes from the top welsh plug at the back of the engine, and down to the sump (un sure where) it goes under the plenum side so im guessing anywhere really aslong as its higher than all the oil so it works well,

got a pic, i took it from the oil control thread on this forum, may be some more pictures? would be worth a look?

post-17389-1234093630_thumb.png

heaps of people just fabricate a fitting to do the job. the return is then plumbed back into the sump on the plenum side becasue of the way the crank turns it helps to promote flow into the sump and not get sloshed back up from the crank.

as tittle says, been trying to find some pic's of how it's done..

i know the head is drilled and tapped and a fitting is put in then a return line is fitted and another hole is drilled and tapped to the sump..

where exactly is this done on the head...eg front, left side, right side, back ect..

where exactly is this done on the sump... front, rear ect...

any one got any pics to show us???

Any help much appreciated

Aaron

TUFFRX3 ,makes dash 10 and dash 8 press in fittings for the oil drain off the back of the head ,i have just brought some .no drilling needed ,just press it in and its done .i think he has some pix loaded in the for sale section

cheers

They really are not needed...

i have been told this to by my tuning shop is this true guys? im just building my engine now it has a greddy oil pump got a oil restrictor for head and trust sump extension do i need this return line?

cheers for the pic sly32...

what i read must have been way off, those welsh plug oil drain seem to be the way to go....

cheers to r33cruiser i'm definetly getting one from spool,

only $110 for the oil drain or $250 for the kit with the oil drain, speedflow fittings and hose...

Edited by vspec_gtr32
cheers for the pic sly32...

what i read must have been way off, those welsh plug oil drain seem to be the way to go....

cheers to r33cruiser i'm definetly getting one from spool,

only $110 for the oil drain or $250 for the kit with the oil drain, speedflow fittings and hose...

the questions is... i hear ppl call them just a bandaid fix to a problem... ne other comments on whether there really needed

the questions is... i hear ppl call them just a bandaid fix to a problem... ne other comments on whether there really needed

not required...they dont drain anything substancial...they actually vent the sump on big clearanced race engines. On a properly built street engine they are waste of money, time and damage to firewall.

Notice two fuel rails on the picture supplied in post #2 (it was from another thread that i posted this picture in) Its a big $$ big clearanced racing engine.

Edited by DiRTgarage
TUFFRX3 ,makes dash 10 and dash 8 press in fittings for the oil drain off the back of the head ,i have just brought some .no drilling needed ,just press it in and its done .i think he has some pix loaded in the for sale section

cheers

And IMO, they're shit.

I have one on my R33... There is NO CHANCE you can ever fit the 90 degree bend whilst the head is in place, without unbolting the engine mounts and lowering the engine.

Once you have it on, it sits in the way of the heat hoses, and then, still sits hard against the firewall.

If I had my time again, I wouldn't do it.

Forgot to mention, I'm only running the dash 8... No idea how the people with Dash 10s fitted theirs!

Edited by MBS206
And IMO, they're shit.

I have one on my R33... There is NO CHANCE you can ever fit the 90 degree bend whilst the head is in place, without unbolting the engine mounts and lowering the engine.

Once you have it on, it sits in the way of the heat hoses, and then, still sits hard against the firewall.

If I had my time again, I wouldn't do it.

Forgot to mention, I'm only running the dash 8... No idea how the people with Dash 10s fitted theirs!

couldnt agree more.. sure there cheap.. but not suited at all.. the ones from spool are a much better option!

Well its been covered in past threads if he needed to find out why, but then its been posted in here as well since

i know it has.

i was just bringing to light ur yet again hypocritical ramblings. ur the first to pull up others on totally useless posts that have a suggestion but no fact to back them up.

just keeping u on ur toes :D

not required...they dont drain anything substancial...they actually vent the sump on big clearanced race engines. On a properly built street engine they are waste of money, time and damage to firewall.

Notice two fuel rails on the picture supplied in post #2 (it was from another thread that i posted this picture in) Its a big $$ big clearanced racing engine.

paul, im curious to know how the drain vents the sump. i have a rough idea of where ur going but if u wouldnt mind can u elaborate please

i know it has.

i was just bringing to light ur yet again hypocritical ramblings. ur the first to pull up others on totally useless posts that have a suggestion but no fact to back them up.

just keeping u on ur toes :D

no fact? easy now :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...