Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Missing Under Light Throttle And On Idle.

R33-RB26DETT

By R33-RB26DETT,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

R33-RB26DETT Proficient

R33-RB26DETT

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I need to pass emissions testing therefore I have brought my car back to completely stock.

The history is that I took my car in to the mechanic to fix the below and bring my car back to stock:

-Install stock airbox

-Install stock exhaust

-Install stock cat.

-Replace 1 faulty 02 Sensor

-Replace 6 leaking injectors

Now that all of this has been completed my car is idling like crap, and is missing when driving under very light throttle the car hesitates/chokes from about 2,000 RPM up until 3,500 RPM.

Although if I drive with heavy throttle the car drives and revs normally.

My mechanic advised me to replace my spark plugs as they are most likely fouled as since they needed to start/stop the car heaps of times whilst repairing it.. So I replaced them with (0.8 Gapped plugs) as recommended by him.

I did this, but the problem remains exactly the same.

What could the issue be? Maybe I need to run the recommended stock gap of 1.1?

R33-RB26DETT Proficient

R33-RB26DETT

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Tried changing the spark plugs?

Yes, I have changed the spark plugs as I suspected that maybe the previous ones had fouled.

I pulled them out and they were very black becuase my car was running very rich prior to fixing my 02 Sensor.

New sparkplugs have gone in with (0.8) Gap and the problem is identical.

Perhaps i should only have them gapped to (1.1) even though my mechanic says not too?

R33-RB26DETT Proficient

R33-RB26DETT

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Have you tried resseting your ecu? Are you also using stock coil packs? also try cleaning your AAC valve.

It may be my ACC Valve needs cleaning, I just found a thread on SAU about this, and I will give it a go.

Other than that I have no idea what it could be.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I am probably calling this too early but I think I found what part of my problem is. I have a couple of dents that are fairly close to each other and I tried to fix them individually. Recently I put one larger coat across all the dents and sanded it and for the first time ever it's all even except for the edge where the bare metal is, I just need to put some putty there. I'm ordering some better longer blocks that are more flexible. Other good news is that the other repairs on my panel are flat even with the guidecoat. It's these 2 dents which are an absolute c*nt l lol.
    • MBS206
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Murray will have better input, but I'd be going with less filler, and aimed at the low spots mainly, and hence won't need as much sanding, which then means get the guide coat on earlier. That's how I'd do it, BUT, I'm not a pro, I'm a DIY hack who will then get the shits halfway through, and have one spot awesomely repaired, and the other spots look like a 3 year old was left unsupervised with workshop tools...
    • timmy94
      GTX2867R GEN 2 NO OUTPUT FOR BOOST SOLENOID

      By timmy94 · Posted

      Where is the most common place to locate it? Disappointing that Garrett won’t make a fitting for it since they know everyone will use it
    • GTSBoy
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's the spirit.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR Limp Mode?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      A HICAS fault really should not cause the engine to go into limp mode. These cars are so old that the systems barely talk to one another. The thump might be the lockoff solenoid valve for the HICAS (the safety valve) getting closed, to lock the rear wheels "straight". I say "straight", because when my HICAS used to shit itself before I took off and nuked it from orbit, it would lock up with the rear wheels wildy non-straight and you'd need 45° of steering wheel to drive straight. Take off and nuke it from orbit. First step is to pull the smaller of the two plugs out of the HICAS CU. See if it stops misbehaving. You can also (whilst leaving it plugged in) try to get the HICAS CU into diagnostic mode by doing the pedal dance, or by connecting a CONSULT capable diagnostic reader into the car and seeing what it has to say for itself. Can't do either of these with it unplugged though. 1st gen HICAS is a ballache. I would do a complete delete. I did do a complete delete.
×
×
  • Create New...