Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just bought a cheapie boost guage and was wondering how to get the tubing through the firewall. I tried sticking it through the hole where the wires from the factory sensor dissapear but doesnt seem to work.

Im like a kid with a new toy and coulndt wait so I hooked it up with the tubing coming in through the drivers window just to check the acccuracy of the gauge and the initial results seemed very promising. It sat on 5psi on early revs then up to 9psi in the later revs.

Anyway, anyone with any ideas and/or pics on how to get the tubing throught the firewall would be greatly appreciated.

Also, is it better to keep the factory gauge hooked up as well or not?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25623-boost-gauge-help/
Share on other sites

bought it from supacheap although the gauge still has the Marlows brand name on it. Costed $40. Looks fine and initial results seeemed to be quite accurate. Cant justify spending stupid amounts just on a gauge that looks very similar. Maybe the brand name gauges are more accurate to .5psi or whatever, maybe its just marketing and image?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25623-boost-gauge-help/#findComment-544148
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. Managed to get it through the grommet that is to the right of the brake booster. Wasnt much room left in there so had to push through some coathanger wire then pull through the tubing afterwards. Next step is to find a decent location for the gauge. Currently have it gaffa taped around the steering column and surprisingly it looks alright. Can you get a yellow for this?

Is it better to have the factory boost guage still connected using a T-piece as well, or just one tube connection from the guage to the intake manifold?

NExt step is to wire the guage up. Wheres a good place for the earth and the power to be hooked up?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25623-boost-gauge-help/#findComment-544386
Share on other sites

Xcuse the ignorance but can you just tap into the power, not completey take the power source?

Mine's tapped into the dimmer power source, and works fine. maybe i should get me one of these small junction connector blocks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25623-boost-gauge-help/#findComment-544956
Share on other sites

couple of things - anything on your dash needs to be dimmable - under ADRules. Therefore the best way to do this is wire the lights into the dimmer switch that is installed for compliance. Just make sure you splice AFTER the resistor - from memory the dimming is actuall on the ground side of most of the accessories. If you know what I mean.

Also, at the risk of stating the obvious, you need to use an accessories line (comes on when the key is turned on), not a 12v+ battery power line, lest your light will be on all the time and run your car battery flat.

also be aware that you need to be able to see the factory gauges and that anything impinging this veiw is yellowable.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25623-boost-gauge-help/#findComment-545792
Share on other sites

zanda is knowledgable... i want the light on mine to come on when i turn on the car so i will be using the accessories....i still have an illumination/accessories wire spare from my cd player that i may use...

that is the wire that turns on the light when you turn on your headlights hopefully.... dont know with these imports....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25623-boost-gauge-help/#findComment-546605
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But if I smoke test 5th cylinder it’s all ok, no leaks  when I try with 2nd it’s leaking exhaust and intake, it doesn’t come from oil dip stick.    so maybe when car was running poorly, rich or sth. Spark plugs were black and covered in charcoal or sth lookalike. could potential contamination make valves not seal properly? is there also a possibility that rb’s don’t have equal performing cooling passages  meaning back of the engine will be hotter than front. Can this cause improper wear if engine was running under load for short time? Or carbon build up could just burnt from 4-6 and is still on 1-3?   I out of my head like really. Timing is as manual crank-exhaust 47, exhaust-intake 38 at this point I thinking about give it a try and make another 500-1000km and check if anything change, if not I will most likely disassemble engine head /or whole engine and send it back to rebuild. It’s killing me     
    • Thanks Duncan, I don't have a GTR these days mate. Gone soft..
    • Yeah. air pressure leakdown test is where I would be headed next here, using one's ears to determine whether it's the valves or bores/rings leaking...
    • More likely you didn't bed the rings in correctly and have glazed the bores. Running with misfires on a fresh build is somewhat of a no-no. Surely no-one "smoke tests" the combustion chamber? That's what a leakdown test is for. Smoke testing is, um, a bit of a wank at best, and only really useful for external pipework.  
    • Well, obviously that kit is not a relocation kit or anything other than just the original isolators and the like. I would suggest that it should be a matter of just bending up some flat bar to build a mount over the top of some other diff, with the flat bar held to the back of the diff by the rear hat bolts. A little welding, a little thinking about how to secure the front of this structure, maybe some different hoses in case you can't get it in just the right place.
×
×
  • Create New...