Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive got a VL turbo on my r33 and NO it does not bolt straight up.

the oil line is completly different. I had to custom make the oil line from the turbo to the block and use the r33's return oil line.

The water lines need to be heated and bent into different directions also.

if you look at the pic where the oil goes into there is a plate with 2 bolts that bolt onto the turbo. R33 or R32 did not use this as they just banjo connectors.

Its not a direct bolt on. but would go well once installed.

if you look above its only the turbine housing of the vl, not the centre cartidge. The hole you are talking about has been tapped and takes a banjo fitting, does not use a flange fitting (you can actually see the banjo bolt in the hole). but well spotted anyway. I can tell you for sure the standard rb20 lines all connect straight up and I can also tell you they are the same as an rb25.

cheers

I have exactly th esame turbo on ma RB20DETits very laggy considerring i have stock computer and coller so im not sure by changing computer ill get rid of the lag or not? by the way my shit mechanic (which is now bankrupted) didnt desine the exhaust pipe like urs with that litle extra hose he just closed it i think and its just not as good... wen i rev it up to 7-7500 RPM it feels like the boost is finishing and its just gives me the shits..

So good luck with the sell Pal... :P

Vtrim is a big Compressor, as long as it "Doesn't" make 15psi before 4100rpm on and RB25 it won't surge. It flows so much damn air the Rb25's just don't want all that air at low revs. My Hybrid has a Vtrim and as you can see it makes massive amounts of flow at low boost.....imagine if I could run 1.3 bar.... Mine needs and external gate for more boost.

I don't think its the compressor, there are plenty of rb25's out there that have larger compressors etc... I think you'll find its the match between the tubine and the compressor. If you have a VG30 turbine, then that is most likely your problem. The turbine is around 42mm and the 13b turbine is around 52mm, flows a lot more. There was absolutly no surge on my car, and I doubt very much that it would surge on a 25.

MRPREZ,

It is a little laggy, but I got used to it pretty quick. Increasing timing before the turbo comes on song, will make it spool a little quicker (more exhaust gas). My turbo pulls all the way to red line.

Haste

Can you tell me HOW to get rid of it plz?? Uhh by the way.... im getting an EMS computer done soon so i hope that reduces lagg little bit for me... :(

Sorry dude,

have done 50+ hours of experimenting and design with this compressor. If you understood what I was saying, then you wouldn't worry, if the turbine is matched then it will come on boost around 4100rpm and all will be good. As I said b4 this compressor flows ship tins of air at lowish boost which is great news for chasing big power from an RB25 without having the need to do a head gasket. I was just trying to point out that it would be unrealistic to think this turbo will spool-up super fast as it is just not possible. I think the buyers who own an RB25 would benifit from this information as you have had no experience with this turbo on an RB25. A HKS 3037 on a friends car has made 257rwkw with external gate. Mine with Vtrim 266rwkw and less boost. I cannot think of any other compressor that performs so well. For the money I will go the Hybrid hands down. Hope this clarifies. =)

for interest sake i have the same turbo but have used the original r33 rb25 intake housing because of the larger housing. which im guessing will once again make it spool up later. should give a slight increase in power output i would think.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's a short. Find the short. It will be somewhere between that fuse and the headlight. Start by removing the plugs from the back of the headlight and dimmer switches, and measure resistance to earth. Supply side (power from the fuse) should have none. The other side should have resistance compatible with whatever globe(s) is there (which is relatively easy to say for a normal globe, perhaps not as easy to say for LEDs). Anyway, if you have very low resistance, you defo have a short. Then you just have to run the wiring like you're running the bowel of a dog (on the operating table) that has swallowed something it wasn't supposed to.
    • Hey guys, need help figuring out why my driver side (RH) fuse 15amp keeps blowing. The Driver Sides Headlamp is out, i replaced these a long time ago with LED ones that were working for 1-2 years. Now, the driver side light is out and i traced it back to a broken fuse. I replaced the 15 amp fuse in the engine bay and as soon as i flip the headlight on, it blows the new fuse. Any idea what's going on?
    • I found the same with Subaru’s.  I own and love the SG9 Forester, after that model 2008+, Subaru threw the ugly stick at all their line up and somehow managed to make them look worse with every succeeding year.  lol
    • It's something we all have to consider as time marches on. Also consider lifted rally MX5 conversion at that point.
    • I should be fine for a few more years, whilst I do have arthritis I also exercise and do mobility training every day to keep as fit and healthy as I can, military life, which is the actual cause of most of my joint issues, has set daily regimes, which I weirdly enjoy I also train alot smarter now, not really focusing on lots strength or puffy muscles, I'm more focused on maintaining what I have for my future older self, I actually train as much mobility now as I do exercising Check out this "simple" drill I have been doing daily prior to training now for a while now, this has worked wonders in my all round mobility   
×
×
  • Create New...