Driving/TakeOff Tips & Techniques

[Guest | hype^ |]

ok ppl...

since iv never had any cars that have had any decent hp i dont know how to drive this thing properly when racing..

i dont want to get my a55 kicked by some goon and have him brag to his mates "i beat a skyline"... pfft

so i wanna get my technique down pat b4 i start messing with traffic light grand prix...

now iv heard some ppl talk about how they take off with about 3000rpm, now i tried this a week or so ago and i dont this i used the clutch right cos i ended up doin a massive burn out with the a55 of the car all over the place, till i hit the rev limmiter.. for my first rwd burn out this was 'interesting' to say the least :lol:

im after some tips from you more experienced guys about the best way to take off, shift and whether and how to double clutch (if it even makes any difference if you do it or not, i cant see how it can but maybe im doin it wrong)

and please dont think im some punk that cant drive for sh1t.. i can iv just never had a powerful car b4 so i never tried to race..

thanx guys...

[two40]

if you rip the clutch out at 3 grand you will more than likely spin. try to release the clutch slower in 1st and rip the sh1t out of it in the other gears.

i'm pretty crap when it comes to driving but the best advice i can give you is practise. you'll soon learn your car and won't dissapoint the skyline community.

[ex-static]

yea I talked to a few guys about this the other day for great luanches, and we had a good 1hr practice session (not much tyres left now ! )

We tried the handbrake, 5000rpm clutch dump.. well that sent us sideways up the road.. fun, but not effective.

Then tried a lower rpm - 3000, dropped the clutch, and again.. sideways down the street..

So I thought id try just a normal launch then floor it.. this seemed reasonably effective, but still was lacking that 'unf' of a good launch..

Then we did similar to what ONARUN said, held it at about 2500-3000 released the clutch, just as it felt it would lose traction, fan the clutch out a little as you pick up speed, then fully release when you know youve got full traction, then hard on the accelerator .. and away you go

anyone got any tyres they want to give me? ive killed the 255s :burnout:

[hawks]

i dumped my r32 @ 4500 rpm today and it spun heaps but it took off pretty quick. sometimes a bit of wheelspin doesn't hurt your acceleration.............

[Guest | hype^ |]

thanx for the response guys..

ill give it a try...i still aint gonna race till im used to it and at least got a cooler and higher boost..

what about double clutching ...

worth the trouble or just a wast of time..

also if its worth it, can some1 clear up whether or not you actually accelerate between double cluthes, different ppl have told me different things..

[cereal]

Double clutching is for trucks without synchro's........

Don't bother, it's a waste of time unless you've got a 10 second eclipse.......

[blind_elk]

why not confine your racing to the track, that way you really don't need a launch technique.

You don't need to know double-clutching, but you should know heel-toeing - on down-changes, use the side of your braking foot to blip the throttle while the clutch is in. Saves wear and tear on the drivetrain, and reduces risk of compression lockup.

[XrSiSt]

Hype - It's hard to say. Everyone has different combo tyres/clutch/power

Me on:

This is what i found effective in my situation with minimal wheelspin.

- Standard clutch, 3500rpm stock tyres

- HD clutch, 2700rpm stock tyres

- HD clucth, 3500rpm 255s

As you can see i had to reduce alot of rpms when i put my

clutch in. My clutch just grips, you can ask anyone who's been

in my car. hmm. actuallly i think thats only Ryan.

Pratice is the only cure.... :burnout:

[funkymonkey]

i've got a set of 250/55 or 255/50 one of those two, with about hmm 5mm of tread b4 it becomes unroadworthy, came with the car, had to take em off n I got Goodyear f1's now.

[_turtle_]

sheesh isn't anyone worried about burning their clutch out? i'd like to launch it a bit more, but then if the clutch goes, i won't have money to put in a new one

[Guest Boxhead]

now here is my question.. a launch for an auto?? just one foot on brake and one on accelerator? since myn is n/a no loss of traction...

although i think the best racing i can do in the vehicle, is none.

[Guest | hype^ |]

i was practicing take offs tonight.

i now can take off with 3000+ revs without wheel spinning like a fool, by taking my foot off the clutch slower... only im worried this might be burning the clutch.. does it?

i still need heaps of work on my shifts.. i dont know whats up, my gear box feels stiff when shifting, like it need more lubricant or some thing, any1 else got this prob?

[ex-static]

Yes, you will be burning the clutch.. its nto that bad if you do it once in a while, but if you do it every launch... bye bye clutch

[XrSiSt]

Originally posted by | hype^ |

i dont know whats up, my gear box feels stiff when shifting, like it need more lubricant or some thing, any1 else got this prob?

Someone has changed their gearbox oil/fluids and said it made

alot of change. Mines hard to change too.. Hmm.. Think i'll dig up

the post.

[NISMO]

Definately agree with George, launch at lower RPM and it will be way more effective. If you have a standard turbo then the power band is quite smooth, so your not going to get any advantage by launching at high RPM. If on the other hand you have a T78 then yes rev high.

As far as burning the clutch, you just have to know the point at which you can safely lauch without burning it. I've had my clutch for well over 12 months now ( just a $450 RPM HD cheapie) regular launches, about 4 trackdays and still no slipping. Know the limits and you'll be fine,

if not remember these words

" OS Giken Triple Plate":D

[XrSiSt]

Originally posted by NISMO

if not remember these words " OS Giken Triple Plate":D

ehehea.. i'll keep remembering "New gearbox and diff"

[NISMO]

Originally posted by XrSiSt

ehehea.. i'll keep remembering "New gearbox and diff"

shhh don't tell anyone, 1 problem at a time, besides thats in part 2 of " how to destroy your gearbox, and what to replace it with"

[Guest | hype^ |]

Originally posted by XrSiSt

Someone has changed their gearbox oil/fluids and said it made

alot of change. Mines hard to change too.. Hmm.. Think i'll dig up

the post.

yeh that would be good..

[Cubes]

This may be different for me bacause I have a Lightened Flywheel which has made me have to launch at 4000rpm otherwise it will lag and I will have to slip the clutch then if i have half throttle it will come on strong and spin the rears anyway so this is what I do.

Stall to 4200rpm and keep the rev's steady.

Leave the gearbox in neutral. (Helps stop you getting nervous)

Lights go amber on the other side I select first with keeping the rev's steady.

Then when the lights go green don't put your foot down any more than 1/4 and let the clutch go with a nice smooth action not a drop but feel when it grabs then let the clutch out, while you are accelerating to half throttle.

I guess it is riding the clutch with the launch, I get the tyres just chirping and basically I havn't had many cars keep up with me or beat me off the mark appart from the od 4wd..

Some times I still stuff the launch and it wheel spins, it really depends on the road surface, but you will learn to pick the road surface and how grippy it is with the look of it.

I run a HD Clutch and some times in second as I nail it it flicks to red line because the clutch is stinking hot so i have to back off then flatten it again.. will be needing another clutch when the power starts to get up around 200+rwkw.

But also I do run pretty cheap tyres.

Barum's $149 each. 225 50 16's. Crappy slippery tyres. and don't handle well at all, sidewall to soft.

Simex $139 each. 225 50 16's.

Excellent grip/handling and they are a hard compound, will surprise the hell out of you with their grip and they also came out on top with a tyre test for performance and cost, over Pirelli and the others.

BUT.. Those tyres in the wet are absolutly shocking. Like just starting to make 1/2 a bar in 3rd gear and it starts to wheel spins.

Really Really bad in the wet.

But the way I look at it is Turbo's are crap in the wet anyway so whats the difference.

WOW.. long post.. sorry ppls

[Silver-Arrowz]

In a RWD car, I like to rev to 4000 rpm and let the clutch out to it's friction point. Let the wheel get a bit of speed and traction then let the clutch out fully. It's kills the clutch but it's effective.

Double de-clutching is for downchanging. Try down shifting from high RPM and your rear wheels will lock up for a split second. Things get very hairy if you are going though a turn!!!:eek: