Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just got my car back from the mechanic.

He was quite pissed when i told him that i gonna get the turbo charger from someone else for $500. He said it's impossible unless it's a second hand one.

So, probably my car going to lie in the garage for quite sometime before i can get a new turbo. Anyone in this forum mind to tell me where can i get one? and how much is it?

"$2500 for a new turbo would get you a nice Ball bearing Garrett turbo. "

At the same time, i think if i spend $2500 to get a aftermarket turbo charger like wat "GTST" said, isn't i need to change all other stuff like fuel injection and other stuff. So gonna cost more right?

Anyway, i really looking forward for a turbo charger. Please tell me where to get one or PM me if u got one.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25640-aftering-a-turbo-charger-for-my-r33/
Share on other sites

An option that ppl seem to like is a rebuild and hi-flow the original turbo.

A place in sydney called GCG do this, they use new steel turbine wheel, larger compressor, and new ball bearing centre. Effectively a new turbo.( http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=25585 )

And bolts back on bigger and stronger then the original, but still looks original so no-one ever need know. Only prob is this opens the door to spending even more money on management/ exhaust/ intercooler etc.

That said the best get out of jail (or is that gaol) card is a 2nd turbo off another forum member for between $300-500

i took my turbo off and took it to garret, around $950 that got my ihi turbo converted to a garret and turned into a t3/t4 hiflow, theres a bit off work to get the turbo off and back on, it made such a difference, when i first put it on i could only run a maximum of 11psi, but it went very hard, much more responsive, made the car feel like it wasnt straining anymore, now ive also added a front mount, exhuast, airfilter, and the car churps in third gear, next is computer and that will do me for a while, and i havent changed injectors and other things like that, that will come later, anyway, when u do up ur car, there are stages u do it in,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...