Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have a R32 GTR that stopped boosting today. Everything seems to be running fine, engine is smooth but no power due to no boost.

Boost gauge doesn't go past 0, there's no smoke etc, and I cant hear the turbos spool up.

Could anyone please advise what the problem might be. If there is a boost leak shouldn't I still be able to hear the turbo spool up? how do I find a boost leak.

Has my turbos crapped it?

I have N1 turbos to bolt up but don't want to do it till I get a few more parts for a major upgrade.

welcome all advice, as I'm desperate to get the car running properly again.

GTR with no boost = ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256539-gtr-not-boosting-need-help/
Share on other sites

Hi,

I have a R32 GTR that stopped boosting today. Everything seems to be running fine, engine is smooth but no power due to no boost.

Boost gauge doesn't go past 0, there's no smoke etc, and I cant hear the turbos spool up.

Could anyone please advise what the problem might be. If there is a boost leak shouldn't I still be able to hear the turbo spool up? how do I find a boost leak.

Has my turbos crapped it?

I have N1 turbos to bolt up but don't want to do it till I get a few more parts for a major upgrade.

welcome all advice, as I'm desperate to get the car running properly again.

GTR with no boost = :huh:

If the gauge goes from - up to zero, quite possibly your turbos are still working but not making positive pressure indicating a intercooler hose may have popped off, but I cannot explain why you can no longer hear the spooling if that were the case?

were you driving along giving it a hard time when suddenly things went 'pop' and thereafter no boost? or one day you started the car and no boost?

Edited by R33GTRKid

Yep my boost gauge still indicates that it's going from negative to 0 boost but not past that.

I did hear a weird noise the day before but I thought that I had run over something and it was close to home so didnt notice the difference in power. When i started it the next day and took it for a drive (uphill) this is when I noticed the lack of power.

I never drive the car really hard, and was looking to see if any vacum or boost hoses had popped off but cant see past the manifolds.

If it is a intercooler hose poping off wouldn't the car idle really badly? cause mine is idleing and running fine.

Could a wastegate problem cause this as well?

Had a conversation with Bel Garage and Advan today and they both seem to think its the ceramic wheels shattering.

How much should I be looking at in labour to get turbo's changed over? Advan want $1000 Bel Garage want $660 is this about right and can anyone recommend these guys workmanship?

If your ceramic wheels had gone, the boost gauge should be reading 0 or there abouts all the time.

When you accelerate & put the car under load where the turbos would normally spool up, does it seem to miss or sound different?? When a cooler hose popped off on my own car the other day, the idle was fairly normal, but as soon as i accelerated it was popping & farting & just generally not going at all. Do you have a factory ecu in yours?? Remember the factory ecu's have the safety feature where the car wont build any positive boost while in neutral or the clutch is in. Could it be that 1 of the sensors used to detect either of these conditions is playing up??

If the turbos were gone, you would expect smoke &/or a 0 reading on the gauge just about all the time. Personally i dont think turbos, but im not a mechanic so diagnose it & fix it however suits you best.

Good luck with it.

thanks for the reply guys.

Yep still running standard ecu at the moment, and no miss fire or popping when under load.

I guess this will speed up the process of fitting the new turbos. Just bought a set of dumps and apexi front pipes but still looking for manifolds so that I can install all at once.

Will it still be ok to drive to the work shop or am I tempting fate and could cause some bits to go through the engine?

thanks for the reply guys.

Yep still running standard ecu at the moment, and no miss fire or popping when under load.

I guess this will speed up the process of fitting the new turbos. Just bought a set of dumps and apexi front pipes but still looking for manifolds so that I can install all at once.

Will it still be ok to drive to the work shop or am I tempting fate and could cause some bits to go through the engine?

manifolds net zero gain...a waste of $$...i charge $880 so the quotes seem good.

Really? I thought the standard R32 manifolds were quite restrictive?

Please explain, as I wont bother if what your saying is correct

STD GTR manifolds are a great piece of kit...well designed and keep the heat in the gas path, hence increase gas velocity and flow. A thin walled stainless manifold allows the heat to escape and looses this advantage of super-heated high velocity hit on the turbines.

Its well proven with back to back testing that stainless manifolds do SFA when using low-mounts. A set of prepped stockers will outperform them everytime...in both performance, durability and cost.

Edited by DiRTgarage

+1 port match your standard manifolds, the restriction at the turbo flange is quite large, check the gasket marks. While not doing anything for power as every one says, it will improve your spool up response. Always a bonus on the GTR. Funny how both your turbos have gone at the exact same time?

cmoney- engine will still read vacuum if the turbos are shot. Just like an NA car.

post-48345-1234396172_thumb.jpg

If you can get 0 (atmospheric pressure) on your boost gauge, then the turbines are spoolling up in the exhaust gas stream. If BOTH ex wheels had shattered, you would be running a N/A setup, and N/A engines cannot get to atmospheric pressure (they always run in vacuum).

Somewhere in your intake system, a connection is opening up as the system hits boost, dumping the boost pressure.

It's not necessary for both turbos to blow simultaneously to make no boost.

Breaking one turbo on a parallel arrangement like the stock GTR means that one compressor no longer works;

so the air pushed by the other compressor can go:

* through the motor; or

* back out the compressor of the broken turbo

It takes the path of least resistance, so for the most part it does the latter, making your car basically N/A.

If you fully block the intake of the broken turbo properly you _should_ make boost again - exactly what boost I wouldn't know,

I never tried when one of my twins went - but you'd then have a single turbo trying to do twice as much work as it should be doing...

Regards,

Saliya

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...