Gtr Not Boosting Need Help

[Mr Cali]

Hi,

I have a R32 GTR that stopped boosting today. Everything seems to be running fine, engine is smooth but no power due to no boost.

Boost gauge doesn't go past 0, there's no smoke etc, and I cant hear the turbos spool up.

Could anyone please advise what the problem might be. If there is a boost leak shouldn't I still be able to hear the turbo spool up? how do I find a boost leak.

Has my turbos crapped it?

I have N1 turbos to bolt up but don't want to do it till I get a few more parts for a major upgrade.

welcome all advice, as I'm desperate to get the car running properly again.

GTR with no boost =

[R33GTRKid]

Hi,

I have a R32 GTR that stopped boosting today. Everything seems to be running fine, engine is smooth but no power due to no boost.

Boost gauge doesn't go past 0, there's no smoke etc, and I cant hear the turbos spool up.

Could anyone please advise what the problem might be. If there is a boost leak shouldn't I still be able to hear the turbo spool up? how do I find a boost leak.

Has my turbos crapped it?

I have N1 turbos to bolt up but don't want to do it till I get a few more parts for a major upgrade.

welcome all advice, as I'm desperate to get the car running properly again.

GTR with no boost =

If the gauge goes from - up to zero, quite possibly your turbos are still working but not making positive pressure indicating a intercooler hose may have popped off, but I cannot explain why you can no longer hear the spooling if that were the case?

were you driving along giving it a hard time when suddenly things went 'pop' and thereafter no boost? or one day you started the car and no boost?

Edited February 11, 2009 by R33GTRKid

[Mr Cali]

Yep my boost gauge still indicates that it's going from negative to 0 boost but not past that.

I did hear a weird noise the day before but I thought that I had run over something and it was close to home so didnt notice the difference in power. When i started it the next day and took it for a drive (uphill) this is when I noticed the lack of power.

I never drive the car really hard, and was looking to see if any vacum or boost hoses had popped off but cant see past the manifolds.

If it is a intercooler hose poping off wouldn't the car idle really badly? cause mine is idleing and running fine.

Could a wastegate problem cause this as well?

[Mr Cali]

Had a conversation with Bel Garage and Advan today and they both seem to think its the ceramic wheels shattering.

How much should I be looking at in labour to get turbo's changed over? Advan want $1000 Bel Garage want $660 is this about right and can anyone recommend these guys workmanship?

[R.3.2.G.T.R]

yup ur ceramic wheels has gone, you could always take-off your cat to confirm what remains of it.. $660 is great price, do you supply gaskets etc.. new studs?? i have been quoted between $650 - $950 for a changeover in melb

[R33GTRKid]

that's pretty cheap, in WA we get charged 10 hours labour.

Not necessarily rough idle if you have djetro, I could not tell when my IC popped off, simply had no positive boost.

Edited February 11, 2009 by R33GTRKid

[joeleo87]

I had the same problem

i feel for ya man.

cost me 500 for labour on and off

[cmoney]

If your ceramic wheels had gone, the boost gauge should be reading 0 or there abouts all the time.

When you accelerate & put the car under load where the turbos would normally spool up, does it seem to miss or sound different?? When a cooler hose popped off on my own car the other day, the idle was fairly normal, but as soon as i accelerated it was popping & farting & just generally not going at all. Do you have a factory ecu in yours?? Remember the factory ecu's have the safety feature where the car wont build any positive boost while in neutral or the clutch is in. Could it be that 1 of the sensors used to detect either of these conditions is playing up??

If the turbos were gone, you would expect smoke &/or a 0 reading on the gauge just about all the time. Personally i dont think turbos, but im not a mechanic so diagnose it & fix it however suits you best.

Good luck with it.

[MRGTR911]

Your turbos are definately gone , exact same thing happen to me .... i got POWERTUNE To replace my turbos hes in fairfield , he done a great job .

[Mr Cali]

thanks for the reply guys.

Yep still running standard ecu at the moment, and no miss fire or popping when under load.

I guess this will speed up the process of fitting the new turbos. Just bought a set of dumps and apexi front pipes but still looking for manifolds so that I can install all at once.

Will it still be ok to drive to the work shop or am I tempting fate and could cause some bits to go through the engine?

[Swiper the Fox]

thanks for the reply guys.

Yep still running standard ecu at the moment, and no miss fire or popping when under load.

I guess this will speed up the process of fitting the new turbos. Just bought a set of dumps and apexi front pipes but still looking for manifolds so that I can install all at once.

Will it still be ok to drive to the work shop or am I tempting fate and could cause some bits to go through the engine?

manifolds net zero gain...a waste of $$...i charge $880 so the quotes seem good.

[Mr Cali]

Really? I thought the standard R32 manifolds were quite restrictive?

Please explain, as I wont bother if what your saying is correct

[heller44]

Hand port-match the stockers, just so there isn't any vast difference where the flanges meet. Won't have to worry about cracking manifolds either.

[Swiper the Fox]

Really? I thought the standard R32 manifolds were quite restrictive?

Please explain, as I wont bother if what your saying is correct

STD GTR manifolds are a great piece of kit...well designed and keep the heat in the gas path, hence increase gas velocity and flow. A thin walled stainless manifold allows the heat to escape and looses this advantage of super-heated high velocity hit on the turbines.

Its well proven with back to back testing that stainless manifolds do SFA when using low-mounts. A set of prepped stockers will outperform them everytime...in both performance, durability and cost.

Edited February 11, 2009 by DiRTgarage

[Mr Cali]

Thankyou very much for that info, looks like porting will be the go then, might save myself some money

[doo doo]

+1 port match your standard manifolds, the restriction at the turbo flange is quite large, check the gasket marks. While not doing anything for power as every one says, it will improve your spool up response. Always a bonus on the GTR. Funny how both your turbos have gone at the exact same time?

cmoney- engine will still read vacuum if the turbos are shot. Just like an NA car.

[blind_elk]

If you can get 0 (atmospheric pressure) on your boost gauge, then the turbines are spoolling up in the exhaust gas stream. If BOTH ex wheels had shattered, you would be running a N/A setup, and N/A engines cannot get to atmospheric pressure (they always run in vacuum).

Somewhere in your intake system, a connection is opening up as the system hits boost, dumping the boost pressure.

[saliya]

It's not necessary for both turbos to blow simultaneously to make no boost.

Breaking one turbo on a parallel arrangement like the stock GTR means that one compressor no longer works;

so the air pushed by the other compressor can go:

* through the motor; or

* back out the compressor of the broken turbo

It takes the path of least resistance, so for the most part it does the latter, making your car basically N/A.

If you fully block the intake of the broken turbo properly you _should_ make boost again - exactly what boost I wouldn't know,

I never tried when one of my twins went - but you'd then have a single turbo trying to do twice as much work as it should be doing...

Regards,

Saliya

[doo doo]

If your pushing boost from one turbo out the inlet of the other aren't you going to get some pretty horrible side effects in the running/tuning area as one afm gets a reversion effect?

[jrm]

I'm sure I'm not wrong in suggesting a NA car will get vacuum when idling/light throttle and go up to 0psi (and no further unless there is some ram-air pressure from the intake system) under WOT...