Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know the part no. for the little white plastic piece that sits in the window rail.

Its the hip section from the ball joint thats on the crossed arms that raise and lower the window :(

I'm hoping its a generic nissan part

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256629-electric-window-part/
Share on other sites

i can post up a nissan fast screen shot of the electric window assembley, if you can id what part it is i can find out more info. front or rear door, and i may need you VIN number to get the right part number.

i can post up a nissan fast screen shot of the electric window assembley, if you can id what part it is i can find out more info. front or rear door, and i may need you VIN number to get the right part number.

They would be great if you could and I'll pm you my vin

Its the front passenger door.

cheers

g

I may be wrong here, but I replaced a similar sounding part to this a few months ago in my 1989 Nissan Skyline GXE3.0.

The part I replaced was a 2 part set of white holders that hold the window in place, I've attached some photo's. The packet only contains one but there are two of these clips on each window set-up.

Part # on the bag it came in (just incase it's not clear) is 80320-J7000 and it's called a Holder. (Bag is a bit warn so it may be 80320-J7080?).

post-59561-1234349818_thumb.jpg

post-59561-1234349931_thumb.jpg

just having a look in fast and it appears that all the stagea's had the same window assembley. here is the screen shot. if its not on here it may be on the door diagram.

post-34711-1234350401_thumb.jpg

its the bit shown in the pic. hope I don't have to buy the whole rail

post-49793-1234382847_thumb.jpg

had another look on fast for some more info but couldn't find any. i'd suggest going down to the wreakers and having a look for one. or take one of the good ones out of the drivers side door and go down to an engineering workshop and get some made up.

had another look on fast for some more info but couldn't find any. i'd suggest going down to the wreakers and having a look for one. or take one of the good ones out of the drivers side door and go down to an engineering workshop and get some made up.

Turns out you have to buy the window regulator, can't buy the bush on its own.

does anyone know the part no, for an S2 passenger side front window regulator. (the piece with the cross bit and rail in previous pic)

Turns out you have to buy the window regulator, can't buy the bush on its own.

does anyone know the part no, for an S2 passenger side front window regulator. (the piece with the cross bit and rail in previous pic)

If the rear passenger door is the same and it costs much more than $75 I'll pull the regulator out of the door (I'm only asking $75 for the door).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
    • I would suggest equally difficult to find, perhaps edging to the SR. Turkey has almost exclusively Euro market cars, some Korean, few Japanese other than pedestrian shite. I guess they're probably losing the fight against Chinese shit like we are now too. I would vote for a BMW V8, found in a 540i in a wrecking yard somewhere in Deutschland (or possibly Albania).
×
×
  • Create New...