Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just dropped in a 68k Rb26 with HKS 2510 turbos into my 32 gtr. She started up really easy idled really really rough and blew alot of white smoke. This finally cleared so i guess it was just oil from the engine sitting around for a long time.

Heres the current problem. It is really really slow to free rev takes ages to get to even 4k. Stabbing the throttle does stuff all compaired to my old rb20.

Taking it for a test drive tomorrow to see how it goes.

Now I know there is one problem the CAS was loose. We have set the timing to where it idles the best and tightened it up. Want to get a timing light on it but cant see how with the coil plugs.

Any ideas on setting timing and the possable problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256730-new-26-just-dropped-in/
Share on other sites

you can still use a timing light to find the base timing id say its either CAS or maybe the timing belt now put on properly possible skipped tooth?

Where do you hook the timing light up too? i doubt its skipped a tooth on the timing as belt is well tensioned and was not removed being a 68k engine it should be due for replacement yet.

Taking ages to spin up is probably due to timing too retarded, so that maximum combustion pressure occurs after TDC. Using a timing light on RB-series engines has been covered numerous times.

Did you get the injectors cleaned before you installed the engine.

... Running some injector cleaner through it with the fuel. ...
Pretty much a waste of time, if the injectors are already dirty. And if the engine has been sitting around for a while, who knows what condition they are in?
Where do you hook the timing light up too? i doubt its skipped a tooth on the timing as belt is well tensioned and was not removed being a 68k engine it should be due for replacement yet.

Run a HT (conventional coil lead) lead between the coil pack and spark plug and clip the timing light on that.

Timing gun attached and working. Just need to be 100% sure about setting the timing.

Idle at 950rppm timing should be set to 20deg BTDC

From left to right what does each mark represent? I think i have it done right but just want to make sure.

Have searched through the gtr service manual but at 300 pages i haven't found anything yet.

Cheers for the help

left to right what does each mark represent? I think i have it done right but just want to make sure.

Have searched through the gtr service manual but at 300 pages i haven't found anything yet.

Details are shown on page EN-11 of the genuine service manual......28 pages in from the start of the manual (well, it is in my electronic version)

Don't know how I missed that part. OK Timing set now. Issue with coil pack fixed and she now seams to be running alot better.

Al tho its now blowing a heap of white smoke when i give it a bit of throttle. Smells like oil burning. Could it be oil in the cooler pipes from the old engine?

  • 1 year later...

May as well update this even tho car is gone.

White smoke was from a massive build up of oil in the cooler pipes from the old engine.

Engine problem was due to dodgy silicon joiner that would only open up under boost. Car ran perfect after this.

Edited by Crans
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...