Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Planning on installing GTR injectors into my rb20 this weekend and wanted to know how straight-forward it is.

Ive been reading up a couple of threads but majority of them are cluttered with useless jibba-jabba :D

Ive read the best way is to remove the top part of the plenumn to get easy access to the injectors.

Ive purchased the following from a Nissan Dealer; Are these the only gaskets needed?

N1617553J00 Gasket - Throttle Chamber - $18.00

N2378540F00 Gasket - AAC Valve - $3.40

N1403272L01 Gasket - Intake Manifold - $13.60

My injector cleaner workshop said to place grease around the rings when pushing the injectors onto the fuel rail. Ive heard some grease can eat rubber? Which grease is best to apply to create a tight seal.

Does anyone have pictures of where the GTR Resistor pack was fitted in the engine bay in their r32 rb20?

Anyone have photos of the wiring to the resistor pack and any tips on how to easily determine which wire?

Also any other tips / hints when installing gtr injectors :)

I'll update this thread after Saturday with some progress pictures to help people in the future.

edit; Ill be doing the work in wheelers hill, victoria. If you've done the wiring before and are willing to give us a hand, please PM me :yes:

Thanks

Patrick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256804-gtr-injectors-in-rb20/
Share on other sites

i mounted mine on the opposite side above the brake booster, so it was away from any extra heat,

i also replaced my injector wiring plugs with some new ones as the rb20 ones are slightly different to GTR ones but with some filing they can fit, this was also cause the old plastic had turned a bit brittle over age and another thing the new ones had a spring style clip so you didn't loose the little wire retaining clip.

You should use vaseline as the lube for your o rings,

The power wire from the resistor i just took strait to the battery but installed a fuse in the line, this also give a good decent 12'v for you injector power

and as soon as you strip the insulation off the injector wiring the wires become a bit more obvious, and you don't have specific wires out of the resistor to join to specific injectors as long as you join all six wires to each injector.

I dont think you can but them separate.

you can get the coil pack loom separate

AFM/injector etc i think is full loom only, i could be wrong but i know AFM is full loom only... ripe pain in the ass.

Full loom is only $770 though, i know as im buying one tomorrow :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Decided to try and put in the injectors this weekend. Some tips for people doing it in the future.

- Much easier to install injectors if manifold is pulled off.

- No need to pull off throttle body, leave it attached to manifold and just remove the cross over pipe etc

- There is 12 bolts holding the manifold, 6 you can see easily near the strut tower, the other 6 are deeper under the manifold.

- Manifold gasket will rip when removing manifold, and will need to scrub it off (took me 30-40mins with a razor blade)

- With manifold pulled off, easier to remove the fuel rail and old injectors.

- 3 injector connectors are on main loom and another 3 are on a smaller loom connected by a plug to the main loom.

- GTR injectors wont fit onto the rb20 injector connector's because the gtr injectors have 2 extra plastic notches.

- Can either trim off the notches or order GTR injector connectors from Nissan (As you wil be cutting the power wire from each connector to wire in resistor ballast, may as well just wire up new gtr connectors)

Here's a picture of what im up to haha

injector.jpg

Will update later with resistor ballast wiring.

Cheers

Ok. This is slightly off topic but here goes.....

I bought a set of GTR injectors for my RB20 and I was told that they have been modified to RB20 ohm.

Is this feasable or has someone just told me a load of bullshit???

If is is possible, how can this be tested?

Thanx.

Decided to try and put in the injectors this weekend. Some tips for people doing it in the future.

- Much easier to install injectors if manifold is pulled off.

- No need to pull off throttle body, leave it attached to manifold and just remove the cross over pipe etc

- There is 12 bolts holding the manifold, 6 you can see easily near the strut tower, the other 6 are deeper under the manifold.

- Manifold gasket will rip when removing manifold, and will need to scrub it off (took me 30-40mins with a razor blade)

- With manifold pulled off, easier to remove the fuel rail and old injectors.

- 3 injector connectors are on main loom and another 3 are on a smaller loom connected by a plug to the main loom.

- GTR injectors wont fit onto the rb20 injector connector's because the gtr injectors have 2 extra plastic notches.

- Can either trim off the notches or order GTR injector connectors from Nissan (As you wil be cutting the power wire from each connector to wire in resistor ballast, may as well just wire up new gtr connectors)

Here's a picture of what im up to haha

injector.jpg

Will update later with resistor ballast wiring.

Cheers

Don't you mean plenum (or Nissan terminology, "collector"), rather than intake manifold?

You don't need to pull the manifold off.

cheers,

sam

Thanks for help.

Did you buy your injector wiring plugs brand new? Any idea on what Nissan would charge for them?

cheers

Nah mine were generic ones from a shop in Hobart called Automotive Service Solutions, i'm guessing there would be a place similar to this where you are

http://www.efi.com.au/index.php

Nah mine were generic ones from a shop in Hobart called Automotive Service Solutions, i'm guessing there would be a place similar to this where you are

http://www.efi.com.au/index.php

yeah. my mechanic supplied me with some generic connectors which are perfect fit on the gtr injectors.

Also my rb20 plugs were all rusted inside and green from corrosion! One of them had barely any connection.

In order to wire the resistor ballast, i first tried to determine which 1 of the 2 wires to each plug was the voltage (which connects up to the other 2 plugs through the loom)

By setting the multimeter to resistance and putting the probe in one of the injector plug and then into the second injector plug you can search until the value on the screen shows 0.8~

This means that there is a resistance because both of them are connected somewhere inside the loom.

Hopefully that makes sense, ill try revise it after i get my car running :thumbsup:

Okay, i made this quickly in MSPaint, hopefully it will be easier to explain.

Basically, you can work out the linked connections without stripping apart the whole loom.

Just use a multimeter to try and find a closed loop. Also by using the 12v going to the loom (injector 4,5,6) it saves the hassle of stripping the main loom to find it.

Will have car put back together tomorrow and hopefully it will all start. haha

Hopefully the below makes sense

Cheers

gtrwiringrb20.jpg

  • 10 months later...

Oki pulling up an old thread due to talking about the same stuff in another topic which had nothing to do with it!

This is properly the smart way to do this and most likely will be doing it soon!

Q1: How much did the gasket cost that you ripped? do you have a part number?

Q2: How much is the ballast resistor? can we get some pics? so i can just go to the jap wrecker local and grab one ?

Q3: What did you use as lube for your seals? did you go with the Vaseline?

George :thumbsup:

Oki pulling up an old thread due to talking about the same stuff in another topic which had nothing to do with it!

This is properly the smart way to do this and most likely will be doing it soon!

Q1: How much did the gasket cost that you ripped? do you have a part number?

Q2: How much is the ballast resistor? can we get some pics? so i can just go to the jap wrecker local and grab one ?

Q3: What did you use as lube for your seals? did you go with the Vaseline?

George :D

Q1:

N1403272L01 Gasket - Intake Manifold - $13.60

Purchased from Nissan Dealer. Took a day to arrive.

Q2:

GTR Resistor ballast

22698-05U10resistor.jpg

Justjap sells brand new for $210

http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17524

Chop the plug off, and you will have 7 wires. (6 injector wires and 1 power wire, which is probably the yellow colour one)

Q3:

Are you talking about the injector seals before pushing them onto the fuel rail? I cant remember what I used. When i picked up my cleaned injectors, the person mentioned something to use but I have forgot haha

Hope the above helps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It can't be some stupidly proprietary video signal coming out of it that only Nissan's can understand. Surely you can just find some generic camera to stuff in there and use hot melt glue/blu-tac/gaffer tape to hold it in place if need be?
    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
×
×
  • Create New...