New Turbo = Car Runs Like Crap

[UWISSH!]

injectors run out way way before 270kw mate, i duno where your getting your facts from

[PM-R33]

from what i know injectors run out around 270rwkw!

LOL!! On what fuel pressure are you basing that on?

Just because the car "seems" fine, doesn't mean it necessarily is, AFR's and knock count will tell the truth.

[simpletool]

from what i know injectors run out around 270rwkw! and im not running standard fuel system , ive got Walbro 255LPH , SARD Rising Rate FPR set to 33PSI on idle . I checked the plugs today that i put in last week and they are running rich , they are kinda black all over the tip . Also it backfires like crazy off throttle. So i dont know the ARF's but i will definatly keep it on 11PSI now all i was saying is it works on stock ECU , might not be safe but everything runs sweet though ( from a driving perspective ) not mechanically wise im sure

That seems pretty low for stock idle fuel pressure (std runs more than that - I think 3 bar (45psi). Injectors on stock run out around 215rwkw - depends on what you mean "run out" cause they will keep supplying fuel just not enough. Not enough fuel with more air = KABOOOMMMM !!!!! Busted ring lands on 1 piston the absolute minimum (cost for basic rebuild at least $4000)

Obviously (for a physicist or engineer) flow rates and therefore HP of injectors are based at a certain psi - (the only way you could possible give 1 figure), but they ramp up with more psi.

You would probably get around 240rwkw at 1 bar with your setup if it was tuned properly. This can be done with stock injectors if you want to have them running about 65psi of pressure (above atmosphere). Now if you were a damn builder how much extra water would you put behind a damn built for say 215mega litres? Because you injectors are like a damn wall at this piont.

[Kaido_RR]

from what i know injectors run out around 270rwkw! and im not running standard fuel system , ive got Walbro 255LPH , SARD Rising Rate FPR set to 33PSI on idle . I checked the plugs today that i put in last week and they are running rich , they are kinda black all over the tip . Also it backfires like crazy off throttle. So i dont know the ARF's but i will definatly keep it on 11PSI now all i was saying is it works on stock ECU , might not be safe but everything runs sweet though ( from a driving perspective ) not mechanically wise im sure

band aid fix.

did you really think you could run a big aftermarket turbo with a stock ecu, stock ecu, stock afm and it would run good and make power?

do people not understand the idea of supporting mods; you can't make safe power with out enough fuel

[JonnoHR31]

from what i know injectors run out around 270rwkw!

my injectors were hitting 100% duty cycle at only 190rwkw on cold mornings. but you have an adjustable fpr so i guess you'll be fine.....

[crack]

This will make your car run better aswell. works awesome on hondas to.

[PM-R33]

Hahaha! An old one, but still great.

[paulr33]

there is a world of

better response

better average power

better fuel economy

better overall

locked away in a new stand alone ECU or a complete remap

sure you can keep with the stock ecu and "it will work" but its not ideal

theres a massive difference between a complete tuned map and a piggybacked one

i was able to add in around 10deg+ on my std ignition map with the standard turbo

that drivability and how the car responds is amazing. this coupled with a complete turbocharger change, and youll have a pretty big difference

but piss and moan and keep with the stock ecu if you like

[paulr33]

for the new guys reading, new to modifying your car this is how you smash your engine

buy a turbocharger kit thats much larger and plonk it on with std spec engine and std running gear

and expect it to work, turn the boost up and as long as its feels more poweful, its fine and nothing to worry

to upgrade from the std turbocharger to a safe a good setup you should have

stand alone ecu or remapped ECU (ask your tuner which one)

upgraded fuel pump (GTR is OK)

z32 airflow meter

injectors (500cc or higher, no hiflows)

clutch (heavy duty)

intercooler (any is OK, not SMIC, GTR is perfect)

a good competant tuner who can tune your selected ECU / remapped ECU

anything less is a comprimise and is likely to break the engine or put it at great risk

ballpark budget for this is at least $5k excluding the turbocharger

so if you think you can do it for $1200 go for it, but be prepared with "rebuild money" set aside

engines fail because

a) poor tune

b) lack of fuel, ie pump cant keep up, injectors maxing

c) no tune at all

d) owners screwing in more and more and more boost each time

e) excessive heat / detontation - poor tune, turbocharger working too hard, boost too high

[sly32]

yeah thats crazy, such a nice turbo but nothing to support it, you will need ecu and injectors then a tune and it will be fine, the way your running it, i cant see it lasting long, all it needs is the split second at higher revs for it to completly fail, will cost you alot more in the end,

ive just put a rb25 in my r32, i hate this R&R thing, it sucks, but im going to get a boost cut defender installed (apparently i can change volatage so i wont hit r&r), im only going to boost my car up to 13-14psi with this but i will still be putting it on the dyno just to be sure,

[grem]

noob question, what the hell is r and r?

[crack]

^^^

r&r is rich and retard. it's what the standard ecu does to protect the engine. adds more fuel and retards the ignition.

for the new guys reading, new to modifying your car this is how you smash your engine

buy a turbocharger kit thats much larger and plonk it on with std spec engine and std running gear

and expect it to work, turn the boost up and as long as its feels more poweful, its fine and nothing to worry

to upgrade from the std turbocharger to a safe a good setup you should have

stand alone ecu or remapped ECU (ask your tuner which one)

upgraded fuel pump (GTR is OK)

z32 airflow meter

injectors (500cc or higher, no hiflows)

clutch (heavy duty)

intercooler (any is OK, not SMIC, GTR is perfect)

a good competant tuner who can tune your selected ECU / remapped ECU

anything less is a comprimise and is likely to break the engine or put it at great risk

ballpark budget for this is at least $5k excluding the turbocharger

so if you think you can do it for $1200 go for it, but be prepared with "rebuild money" set aside

engines fail because

a) poor tune

b) lack of fuel, ie pump cant keep up, injectors maxing

c) no tune at all

d) owners screwing in more and more and more boost each time

e) excessive heat / detontation - poor tune, turbocharger working too hard, boost too high

and too much sand

[PM-R33]

for the new guys reading, new to modifying your car this is how you smash your engine

buy a turbocharger kit thats much larger and plonk it on with std spec engine and std running gear

and expect it to work, turn the boost up and as long as its feels more poweful, its fine and nothing to worry

to upgrade from the std turbocharger to a safe a good setup you should have

stand alone ecu or remapped ECU (ask your tuner which one)

upgraded fuel pump (GTR is OK)

z32 airflow meter

injectors (500cc or higher, no hiflows)

clutch (heavy duty)

intercooler (any is OK, not SMIC, GTR is perfect)

a good competant tuner who can tune your selected ECU / remapped ECU

anything less is a comprimise and is likely to break the engine or put it at great risk

ballpark budget for this is at least $5k excluding the turbocharger

so if you think you can do it for $1200 go for it, but be prepared with "rebuild money" set aside

engines fail because

a) poor tune

b) lack of fuel, ie pump cant keep up, injectors maxing

c) no tune at all

d) owners screwing in more and more and more boost each time

e) excessive heat / detontation - poor tune, turbocharger working too hard, boost too high

Very well said Paul.

[Taso84]

dude, pretty much every1 here is saying the same thing to you. Its not because we think we're madk%^nts and don't want your car to be faster than ours, its because we have actually done research, had discussions with tuners/other owners and are generally well informed about the cars we have owned (in many cases for lots of years) and that we are passionate about.

We're only saying this for ur own good, so u don't blow a motor and end up having to folk out another 50% over the purchase price of ur car just to get it running again.

"You can take a horse to water but u can't make it drink"

[Pattygtst]

looking forward to the next thread he creates

I just blew my engine = i am a f**ken idiot

[bozodos]

+1 for sound advice in here, especially from the guys who've been around a while.

This thread makes me kind of scared now - I've got standard (i think) injectors with an aftermarket fuel pump and KKR pushing out 240rwkw, though the other day I did hit max cycle according to the microtech when doing a full throttle run in 3rd to program my Profec boost controller. Only happened once but it did give me a fright, might be some food for thought re getting some 500cc injectors, especially with my tune being rich as hell.

[bubba]

ok , here is one for all of you guys that said running a aftermarket turbo of the size that i'm running will not work on a stock ecu .. Not to piss in your pocket or anything but yesterday i decided to play around and just reset my ecu using the paper clip method and to my suprise it completly fixed everything i've been whinin about .. It now boosts FINE at around 15-16psi and pulls hard right to redline .. I've got no hesitation and no popping and everything is great car pulls harder then before and really has some torque .. I was at 220kw @ wheels with old turbo and i can really feel something around 250kw + .. Very suprised with my setup that everything that i have you guys deemed would not work but it does , i don't see the need to upgrade the air flow or injectors yet maybe for power later but i'm going good now , a power fc is my future upgrade but i'm happy with stock ecu and safc neo

lulz

from what i know injectors run out around 270rwkw! and im not running standard fuel system , ive got Walbro 255LPH , SARD Rising Rate FPR set to 33PSI on idle . I checked the plugs today that i put in last week and they are running rich , they are kinda black all over the tip . Also it backfires like crazy off throttle. So i dont know the ARF's but i will definatly keep it on 11PSI now all i was saying is it works on stock ECU , might not be safe but everything runs sweet though ( from a driving perspective ) not mechanically wise im sure

even more lulz!

injectors run out way way before 270kw mate, i duno where your getting your facts from

My stock neo injectors (370cc?) were maxed at 260awkw so wound the boost down and making 240awkw barely safely for now.

That seems pretty low for stock idle fuel pressure (std runs more than that - I think 3 bar (45psi). Injectors on stock run out around 215rwkw - depends on what you mean "run out" cause they will keep supplying fuel just not enough. Not enough fuel with more air = KABOOOMMMM !!!!! Busted ring lands on 1 piston the absolute minimum (cost for basic rebuild at least $4000)

It is a 3bar system but that doesn't include the vaccum or boost.. so 33psi at idle sounds about right..

my injectors were hitting 100% duty cycle at only 190rwkw on cold mornings. but you have an adjustable fpr so i guess you'll be fine.....

RB25? wow..

looking forward to the next thread he creates

I just blew my engine = i am a f**ken idiot

+1

[foney]

Good read, :-P

[UWISSH!]

wow bubba thats the 1st ive heard of stock injectors making anywhere near that sort of power. very common to be maxed out at around 200-220kw

[TiTAN]

mine are sitting on 60-70% duty @ 200kw according to the ECU.