Jump to content
SAU Community

Cabin Micro Filter Part Number?

T88turbo
 Share

Recommended Posts

Blue Arrow Enthusiast

Blue Arrow

Posted
Posted
I was on the phone to Nissan today for about 20minutes and wasn't successful with the range of part numbers that i provided.

Does anyone have any clue as to what part number i should quote for the micro cabin filter.

Cheers

the part no. on the receipt says N*B727A79925 Filter-Pollen (don't know if Nissan needs the N* or whether it's just a code). if it's any help, the location code on the receipt is AL309. it used to be $61.20 incl GST. goodluck in finding one. it's a lot cheaper in the US but with the exchg rate and shipping cost, it's not too far from the local nissan price these days.

  • 1 year later...
ther Enthusiast

ther

Posted
Posted

sorry to dredge an old thread but is this the correct part for cars that also have the ioniser?

i ordered a filter which would work on my v35 coupe but my car also has a bracket for the filter to sit in with wires thru it ( which i believe would be the ioniser). the filter does not fitr in the bracket therefore i'm trying to find the right one for the car.

any help would be appreciated.

Zelrik Apprentice

Zelrik

Posted
Posted

sorry to dredge an old thread but is this the correct part for cars that also have the ioniser?

i ordered a filter which would work on my v35 coupe but my car also has a bracket for the filter to sit in with wires thru it ( which i believe would be the ioniser). the filter does not fitr in the bracket therefore i'm trying to find the right one for the car.

any help would be appreciated.

I recently put a new carbon micro filter in my V36 cope.

If you know the dimensions (measure the old one?) you can look through the Ryco catalogue on the net for the right size & part number.

The length was not quite enough for my "S" model, but it was close, so I used some stick-on draft excluder foam strips (Bunnings) to pack out the filter ends & fill in the gaps so all the incoming air goes through the filter.

The following Ryco filter is used on a lot of Nissan models & this one is carbon impregnated.

Part RCA113C

Type Cabin Air Filter

End Material Height Overall30.00mm

Outside Length221.00mm

Outside Width200.00mm

nickcorr Proficient

nickcorr

Posted
Posted

sorry to dredge an old thread but is this the correct part for cars that also have the ioniser?

i ordered a filter which would work on my v35 coupe but my car also has a bracket for the filter to sit in with wires thru it ( which i believe would be the ioniser). the filter does not fitr in the bracket therefore i'm trying to find the right one for the car.

any help would be appreciated.

I also have this ioniser on my M35... Been trying to find the correct filter for years!!! Reckon I will measure it and try the Ryco cataloge, when I can find the old one.. Pulled them out and replaced with normal filter when I bought the car...

Zelrik Apprentice

Zelrik

Posted
Posted

So if I turn on the aircon and the air smells like mold...is this what I replace?

Yes, I would plan on replacing the cabin filter, as its not really that hard a job.

If there is a mould smell - perhaps the drain tubes are blocked and any excess moisture is still sitting in the aircond unit and attracting mould into the car.

Sometimes mould grows on the internal aircond plumbing. I have read about a spray-in product that will remove this mould but I have not used it myself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Zoidian
      What's this Foreign Object?

      By Zoidian · Posted

      Forgot to update. I ended up removing it and found out that it's dead. The car seems to run better than it did, although I haven't driven it hard yet. Literally just a flow restriction.
    • joshuaho96
      R33 general questions

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Sounds like the rack seals blew.
    • GTSBoy
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      ^ This is all good advice. I can imagine that there's some passive components in the HVAC controller that run that PWM output that could die, or suffer bad solder joints. It can be worth opening it up, taking a schmooze around looking for swollen electro caps, evidence of liquid escape anywhere, tracks that have been hot, lifted, cracked, etc. A DMM might not be suitable for seeing if the PWM output is pulsing. Might be too fast and too low voltage for a DMM to keep up. An analogue voltmeter might give a better hope. I use a handheld oscilloscope (<$100 from Aliexpress if you want something cheap). A DMM might see the voltage across the motor flicker. Otherwise, as above. If you can successfully see PWM action, then the control side should be good. If you can't see it with what you have, you might need to step up the instrumentation used, as above. Beyond that, and dbm7's advice on testing the motor directly, you're down to looking for broken wires, corroded connector pins, etc.
    • ChrisGtt
      R34 Gtt RB25det neo Issue After Modifications

      By ChrisGtt · Posted

      So Thanks for the comments etc. To follow up on this, we went down the path of fitting a divider down the middle of the external pipe that was added to the exhaust manifold and the divider went from very close to the external wastegate all the way up to the "V" part where the pipes from each side of the manifold joined. After this modification it was finally in a position to do the dyno-tune with some degree of success. Top end power was down about 10kw (250rwkw down to 240rwkw) I believe from previous but it seems to be more responsive lower down and at least it is now driveable and fun and back on the road to be enjoyed. Apparently the timing couldn't be run the same as it was running into knock and boost was down about 1psi. For all we know this could have been from the fuel being a bit older, or perhaps some slight complication from the new head gasket as we didn't have compression figures from before that mod to compare. I'm no mechanic and this is second hand info but I just wanted to follow-up to those that commented or read the original post with interest. After so many months of stuffing around this is a big win. The interesting part was most of the info around this was gained from information around Barra motors and not GTR as the manifold setup on the Barra with single turbo was more similar.  Thanks for those that helped with info. Regards Rob 
    • dbm7
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      G'day ... first up, I very much doubt that's a resistor network (as used also for this job), but the part# looks right. The description of 'power module assembly' looks to be nissanese for 'PWM driven, ground switched, DC motor speed controller'.... the circuit in the schematic kinda infers that's the case... ...with the transistor symbol appearing in the unit described here as 'Fan Control Amp(lifier)'....being driven by pin20 on the HVAC unit,  and a feedback signal on pin19 from the motor negative terminal for some reason (might be motor fault detection, maybe they detect commutator switching to determine motor revs as well, I dunno)... but if they are  counting commutator spikes, a bad segment (or really worn brushes) will throw a spanner in the works... The motor itself will as said be brushed DC with segmented commutator, rated at 12VDC nominally ~ now-a-days I just unplug them, determine the positive wire, and hook them up to a variable power supply and find out how much current they draw, if they work etc etc ...you can also check for bad segments...ie; set the power supply up to feed 1volt @ 2amp max, then watch the wattage count as you slowly rotate the fan blower motor through a complete revolution ; any bad/dead segments will be clearly evident...some folks would just say determine the positive wire, and feed it battery voltage, and if fan spin, you've got a win...<grin>... well, at least that infers it should do something when plugged back in, and the HVAC unit commands it to run... and if it doesn't, you suspect the module, but you should check the PWM signal on pin20 is actually present, and if it is, blame the module ...  
×
×
  • Create New...