Braille Auto Battery Power Protector

[tridentt150v]

I did a search and didn't find anyone that had done one:

This is more of a ‘heads up’ than a tutorial, the item already comes with a good set of instructions.

If you’re like me and don't get to drive your Skyline all that often then you know what it is like to have a flat battery. I have a work 4WD, a personal 4WD and a motorbike, so my Skyline only gets driven when I'm not working, going away on the bike, or using my 4WD. The clock, burglar alarm and radio etc all drive the battery flat over time.

If you have ever left your lights on on a foggy morning, or left your interior light on, then this system is a saviour. Anyway, I rang up and ordered a new battery and the salesperson recommended a battery power protector for my situation.

The Braille unit supplied is a battery power protection system that can be used to switch your battery on and off. You can also use it as a security power cut, so there is no power in the car at all, so things like your power window buttons can’t be used as a point of entry and making it very hard to hotwire [it still won’t stop the professional thief]. The down side is that your car alarm won't work. Braille provide instructions on how to wire in your accessories and/or engine ignition so you can in fact bypass the switch for either or both accessories and/or ignition. Wiring it this way would allow your burglar alarm to continue working, but may also allow the battery to go flat thus negating any benefits of the battery power protection system.

Considering that my car is garaged at home most of the time, the loss of a burglar alarm isn't a concern to me. So I didn’t bother with the accessory or ignition wire option [and you can get around it anyway]. I may change my mind later.

The unit cost $139 from Mat Mladin Imports, and came with:

The switch unit

Two (2) remote controls

Wires, mounting blocks, metal links, nuts, bolts, fuses, battery post, battery clamp and other fitting gear, and an excellent set of instructions, very comprehensive really.

It was easy to fit, approx 2 hours, I did it in around 3 but I did a chassis mount rather than hanging it off one of the metal links on the side of the battery. I solid mounted mine on my battery tray near the rear fuse box [see photo].

You can see the item description and specifications at: http://braillebattery.com/index.php/produc...ower_protector/

Because I did a chassis mount, I had to get another battery lead made up by my friendly resident auto electrician to go from the rear fuse box to the Braille switch unit = $10. I used my original battery lead to go from the unit to the battery.

To test the system, I switched on my ignition [car not running] and also turned on the headlights and pedestrian lights. The Braille system cut in inside 2 minutes and the car went dead.

I turned everything off and used the remote to reset the switch. I then started the car and hit the remote again to turn the system off, the car kept going, but as soon as I turned the ignition off, there was no power. So it all worked as it was meant to for me.

There is a manual override in the switch, if you undo the screw on lid and use a screwdriver to turn the exposed switch to ‘off’, the switch is no longer operative and the battery has direct power to the vehicle. This could be good for using your parkers or hazard lights for extended periods if you have a breakdown. It could also be used if your away from home and need to have the burglar alarm going all the time [and you didn’t use the accessory wire to bypass the switch], the unit won’t be able to auto turn off.

The only semi tricky bit is to make sure that you earth the switch with the black wire coming out of the unit. You can earth to the chassis or the negative battery post, whichever is easiest.

Note: That I can't vouch for this items longer term service or suitability yet [will it save my battery?], but I'll get back to this thread in a few weeks and give an update.

[Kinks]

I was hoping this system would be one that cut power when the battery was half flat, so that if you left your lights on and came back to the car you could hit an override button and still start it, rather than be left dead flat.

Having it cut out after 2 minutes regardless, and losing the functionality of a car alarm, isn't useful IMO. I lock my car up every night but if I parked on the street somewhere I'd rather it made a big f**k off noise to scare off thieves rather than let them get in and nick anything they want in silence.

[tridentt150v]

Kinks, please re read and visit their website, you can wire it up so that your car alarm can work 24/7 if thats what you want. anyway, if your out and about, you can turn the unit off. This effectively means your battery power is acting as if the unit is not there, so your alarm/accessories etc can do whatever you want. So I think it has the options to do what you want.

You won't start a car with a half flat battery, anything below 12 volts is maybe, anything below 11 volts is a 'push me'. This unit will shut down the battery at a threshold that it thinks it requires to restart your vehicle.

This unit won't suit everyone, but if you garage your car in a sequre place, and you don't/can't drive it all the time, then you should consider it.

[gotRICE?]

Wouldnt it be better to buy a trickle charger? Wire it up so you have the input plug somewhere where you can unplug it and not need to remove wiring etc or leave the boot open and just plug it in?

They just keep the battery ticking over as they slowly drain with the alarms etc. But dont over charge them.

Seems like a lot better way of doing it. You can even buy them with solar panels so you could just leave it on the parcel shelf, or if the cars inside, on a window sill.

Friends of mine use them on their race cars and motorbikes. Works a treat.

[Kinks]

Kinks, please re read and visit their website, you can wire it up so that your car alarm can work 24/7 if thats what you want. anyway, if your out and about, you can turn the unit off. This effectively means your battery power is acting as if the unit is not there, so your alarm/accessories etc can do whatever you want. So I think it has the options to do what you want.

I had a look at the website and it still doesn't seem to. So you manually turn the unit on and off - and then one day forget and your battery goes flat. That's not worth spending $150 for.

As part of my amp install I put a battery isolator in, $15 from jaycar. It's a manual switch and you can take the toggle bit with you when the switch is off which will also be a minor pain in the arse for thieves. Sure I have to pop the boot but I don't have to remember the remote control (which is kinda pointless for an occasional use only item). Honestly for a car that is seldom driven you should either 1) connect a trickle charger or 2) fit a manual isolator.

If it works for you, great.. but it sounds like you're trying to sell the product or beat up interest in it by trying to convince me it's something I want when I know it isn't.

[tridentt150v]

I've got no interest in selling the product, have nothing to do with the company or importer at all, I merely did an install and told it how it was [call them and ask if you want].

If you keep having to pop the boot in public.........well it doesn't take much imagination to put the pieces together. My remote swings off my keyring, if I get in and have no ignition, I hit the remote and get it back all from the drivers seat.

If this product doesn't suit you, no skin off my back, couldn't care less. If you want to fit solar panels, trickle chargers or a different system, go for it. All I wanted to do was inform you that what you originally said was not wholly correct. Notice I didn't respond to gotRICE, because he didn't say anything incorrect, just mentioned another solution.

[tridentt150v]

Instructions and some specs

[tridentt150v]

OK, its been a few months now and it is all working fine, no problems at all.

What I also did was fit a smaller battery off to one side and power my alarm from this. It gets charged when I'm driving but has a one way in line doide that isolates it from the main battery.

A plus side is I don't have to disconnect my central locking button on the door, it doesn't work without power, so one more way that thieves are foiled.