Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

k well i personally would buy brand new ones if i could afford them

If you get your discs skimmed then they're more likely to warp again quicker, because you've made them thinner they wont be able to handle the heat as easy, also if they fall below minimum thickness after skimming then you'll need to replace them

If your going to get 2nd hand ones then make sure they're well above the minimum thickness as they may end up needing a machine themselves

Are you actually getting a pulsation through your steering wheel when you pull up a little harder than usual?

Nath

Edited by TAKUSHI
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4425060
Share on other sites

if your gunna buy buy new theres plenty of options for aftermarket discs as for machining any brake shop can do it either in house or know who to send it to

personally i find worn stock parts to be an excuse to upgrade to something better

slotted rotors and race pads yea

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4425928
Share on other sites

im probebly going to ahve to uograde my brakes after i add a bigger turbo so im lookign for something just for the time being so buying brand new rotors seems to be a bit of a waste so im tossing up between skimming them or seconf hand for a couple of months. anyone got an diea of how much skimming costs

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4426157
Share on other sites

skimming 'if you can skim yours is a waste personally' + i think its about $100 to get skimmed! so, i'd get some DBA slotted there only few hundred for a pair... 'try supercheap/repco' and maybe you could just get the fronts first!?!? considering thats where majority of the braking

comes from

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4426326
Share on other sites

im probebly going to ahve to uograde my brakes after i add a bigger turbo so im lookign for something just for the time being so buying brand new rotors seems to be a bit of a waste so im tossing up between skimming them or seconf hand for a couple of months. anyone got an diea of how much skimming costs

$18 ea to machine a rotor .. I have new DBA 4000 n 5000 series rotors instock .. Also have 33 GTR brembo upgrades for GTS-T :P

Nothing wrong with skimming rotors , i been doing it for 16yrs and havnt seen any thing that can back that claim of " warping easier " after maching

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4426389
Share on other sites

havnt seen any thing that can back that claim of " warping easier " after maching

haha commodores and falcons do it all the time buddy

and just think about that for a sec, the discs are going to be thinner

therefore they cant handle as much heat as they could when they

were thicker, and yes that couple of mm does make the difference

otherwise they wouldnt have such a small margin of wear between

new and throw in the bin, i'd just go brand new or upgrade now

your car will then be ready for more power mods, if not then at least

you know you'll pull up sweet everytime haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4426519
Share on other sites

haha commodores and falcons do it all the time buddy

and just think about that for a sec, the discs are going to be thinner

therefore they cant handle as much heat as they could when they

were thicker, and yes that couple of mm does make the difference

otherwise they wouldnt have such a small margin of wear between

new and throw in the bin, i'd just go brand new or upgrade now

your car will then be ready for more power mods, if not then at least

you know you'll pull up sweet everytime haha

Umm, sorry, but your wrong, and obviously don't know much about brakes :D

Skimming is fine, but if you have the $$$ get new discs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4426593
Share on other sites

haha commodores and falcons do it all the time buddy

LOL I know commo n ford are bad , When BA was released i was doing 3 - 5 cars a day for local dealership (Ford Aus wty was paying us $200 per car to go n machine oncar ) One car had 4000ks on clock when it was first done ( was only issue on base model brakes n not the premium packages ) , EL - EF have instructions on how to fit seals because if fitted incorrectly it will cause pulsating pedal after few thoasand ks and as for holdens i do average of 5 a week for pulsating pedal .. Have done new Pajeros at 1000 -5000ks old for mits dealer aswell

My GQ wagon is over 2 tonne ( close to 5tonne when loaded with race car n spares) and rotors 19mm thick and has done over 100,000ks since rotors were machined n pads fitted with no sign of pulsating pedal yet im doing commos at 4-60 thousand ks that have been machined ever n rotor thickness of 25mm :D

Also we had letter from holden saying that doing wheels up could cause them to pulsate and ford gave me a 5 page booklet on how to remove n refit calipers n rotors to try n prevent pulsting problems :( what a joke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4426624
Share on other sites

i know plenty mate, im saying a brand new disc will last longer than a disc thats been skimmed, we've had plenty of customers come in after having other places skim discs and what you they're warped again and pal as for me refering to commodores and falcons, brakes are brakes dude, it all comes down to brand of disc and driver that determines the life of a disc, just coz they're all autos

Gwp021 just save yourself the hassle and go buy new rotors, coz if you're going to spend money on oomph you wanna know you'll stop fine, its called piece of mind

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4426737
Share on other sites

surprisingly when we skim the rotors and when they come in for their next service, i noticed their rotors needed machining again cause its heavily scored and pulsates everytime i brake and its been done on their last service as well which was like 1 or 2 months ago (the skimming was done properly too and they are not warped). we measure the disc on every services and yeh almost every commodore or falcon we get either needs their rotors machined or replaced.

Edited by R33_NICK
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4426833
Share on other sites

hey guys just wondering if anyone knows where and how much to get my front rotors skimmed or am i better off buying a secondhand rotors

thanks

OK try PERTH BRAKE PART`S in welshpool & have them GROUND ,you should pay about $80 to $100,but it is worth while,
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4427101
Share on other sites

Takushi, That's not what you said, but whatever.

sx, In summary: skimming is cheap, but is only an option if you have enough material left, otherwise new rotors are on the cards.

haha oh really??

If you get your discs skimmed then they're more likely to warp again quicker, because you've made them thinner they wont be able to handle the heat as easy

aaand you still manage to repeat what ive already told him

also if they fall below minimum thickness after skimming then you'll need to replace them

68*** posts and counting....4 yrs of experience as a mechanic and counting

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4427454
Share on other sites

i know plenty mate, im saying a brand new disc will last longer than a disc thats been skimmed, we've had plenty of customers come in after having other places skim discs and what you they're warped again and pal as for me refering to commodores and falcons, brakes are brakes dude, it all comes down to brand of disc and driver that determines the life of a disc, just coz they're all autos

Gwp021 just save yourself the hassle and go buy new rotors, coz if you're going to spend money on oomph you wanna know you'll stop fine, its called piece of mind

um i may not have been clear i am running new rotors ( top level RDA's with braided lines and yellow stuff pads) cause i wanted to know my car could stop right specially with the comp racing i do

what i was trying to point out was that if the choice was made not to machine but to buy personally i'd choose to avoid the issue of using older worn discs that'd probably need machining soon anyhow and buy new

and honestly with what nissan charges it's really worth looking at aftermarket products

cheers

GWP

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4427474
Share on other sites

A. TAKUSHI, why did you quote yourself? (Twice)

B. I'm not going to theorise on the implications of skimming brakes, because theorising has already been done...

C. From my 1st hand experience, when i imported my car i was told "all of your rotors need to be skimmed", 3 years later... same rotors, same pads, no skimming, still going (40,000kms.)

Anyway, if skimming was sooooo bad, why would it be an option?

Edited by Tezzah
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256959-r33-rotors/#findComment-4427476
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • interestingly enough, i found out the answer is yes. doing a flush did fix my recurring A/T light. it might have been because of the trans filter: but that doesn't really make sense to me. the fluid/filter was super dirty. would that increase the pressure in the lines and trigger an A/T light? does the car even have a way of detecting that? i have no idea. i've done 200+ miles after the flush and no A/T light. if my A/B solenoids went bad, i would think the light would've come on. shifts and drives way better now though...at 2k rpm instead of 2500...no hesitation and downshifts when i want it to. 
    • I vote go red. Only because I hate keeping gloss black clean. Was no worries helping out either! Glad you've survived the rain outs of QLD
    • I would again like too thank Matt for his help in me sourcing the detachable hard top for the little red car, without Matt's assistance in inspecting it and locking it down, I can guarantee it would have sold before I could get up to see it,  and as that was the only available NC hardtop in Australia, I consider myself extremely lucky on multiple levels To say I'm more that happy would be an understatement And, it is 100% water tight, I drove through torrential rain coming back south, and by torrential, they type of rain that doing 40kph in a 110kph zone was a real thing, and even then, the standing water on the Hwy was deep enough to throw waves I'm also more than happy that the huge "BEASTS" that Matt calls dogs didn't eat me for lunch, I'm sure the sniffs and licks were more to "taste test" me, over being to friendly Now to work out what colour to get it painted, panel match, or gloss black........first world problems are real
    • Actually I might have figured out. Looks like there is a tab according to google images but it's hidden. Silly me.
×
×
  • Create New...