Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

not sure what bearing....

But they said the head would need a recon or freshen up etc just by the sound of it, if that makes sense...

and also said even if the crank can be saved it would be over $500 to have it tidied up etc

The head might need to be decked and cleaned out but thats all unknown until it gets pulled out..Not major they just shave the bottom of it where it sits on the block for the head gasket..

Is this your first rebuild?

If you're mate is a mechanic I would get him to pull the engine out and open it up and see how bad it is..Go into the build threads here on SAU in the motorsport section and forced induction.

You have to look at it before you do anything...how loud was the knock?? how long has it been knocking?

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Cheers mate.

Yer he will have a look in beofre i do anything... Im just working on worst case scenario...

It was knocking BAD BAD not for to long tho as when i worked out what it was i traliered it everywhere.

Yer id rather not rebuild as i need to sell. and trying to come away as cheap as possiable...

Easy as pie. Fill in the forms with new engine number, they then check that the engine didn't come from a stolen car and that's it. Mind you the last time I did it was around 6 years ago and they reprinted my rego papers to reflect new engine #

simple logic really.

you have a engine in your car that most likely has spun a bearing.

can you drive the car? No! so pull the engine out.

why trailer the car everywhere and get people to listern to it? thats a waste of time and money.

surely you can hear the noise yourself and know that it neads to come out and be stripped down.

and you have a mechanic mate thats prepared to help you,

so why is the engine still in the car?

its a 3 hr job to remove the engine, put it on a engine stand and pull the sump off.

you will then know what has happened and the cost of what needs fixing.

if everything is rooted then strip the good parts and get a stocker and bolt it back in.

if damage is minimal then take the crank to chris miltons get them to machine it new bearings and go again.

either way the engine has to come out. so thats allways the first thing to do.

simple logic really.

you have a engine in your car that most likely has spun a bearing.

can you drive the car? No! so pull the engine out.

why trailer the car everywhere and get people to listern to it? thats a waste of time and money.

surely you can hear the noise yourself and know that it neads to come out and be stripped down.

and you have a mechanic mate thats prepared to help you,

so why is the engine still in the car?

its a 3 hr job to remove the engine, put it on a engine stand and pull the sump off.

you will then know what has happened and the cost of what needs fixing.

if everything is rooted then strip the good parts and get a stocker and bolt it back in.

if damage is minimal then take the crank to chris miltons get them to machine it new bearings and go again.

either way the engine has to come out. so thats allways the first thing to do.

Exactly what I said..But it is scary for the people that are used to this sort of work :)

Also why does everyone think a GTR rebuild is $10K?? That with expensive parts and for high power...

Nope. It's a common misconception. People hear 10k, then tell the next person, etc.

5k will get you a full rebuild with standard parts. 10k is something that will handle 300-400kw+

6-7k is a forged build with oil mods which will handle very decent power.

Unless you're thinking... Jun stroker kit or something... which is like $15k+ all up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah i agree paint match stops it from standing out so much, oh that's actually really good to know i was wondering if it would help with air flow now actually having an outlet in the bonnet. Will have to focus on ducting into and out of the radiator now to make the most of it.
    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
×
×
  • Create New...