Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys and girls,

just recently my std turbo blew, anyway i replaced it with another stocky,

so tonight i took if for a spin and all was well i came onto boost very slowly didnt give it any more than 3000 didnt even get into 3rd and then is started rtevving by itself like the pedal didnt go down its just when i backed off it started to keep going,so i turned the car off rolled back down the road to my joint, and then get home and on idle its knocking and almost stalling!!!

ive reset my computer thinking that might be it but it wasnt????

now any help here would be great, what do you guys think i done everything right( well atleast i think so)

PLEASE HELP THANKS GUYS

pod filter

3" exhaust turbo back

front mount

i did put the 3" high flow cat on when i put this replacement turbo on n before i changed the turbo n put the cat on there was no problems

just got home after letting the car cool down,the coolant was a bit lower than full so i topped it up,started it and now NO MORE NOISE its back to normal?????????

yeah, the series 2 tend to be like that. i had same problem but not the idle prob, and it went away the next day. maybe some problems just fix themselves overnight.

Hey guys update on the 33 problem,took it to the mechanics to get the timing belt and shit done etc for the 100,000km service,and they said it was the coil packs and plugs so they have been changed and now all is good,hopefully this will help someone with the same problem down the track.

also i think one of the factors that i forgot to mention in the first post was that the car had been only driven once every 2 weeks for the last 4 months due to loss of licence.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.
    • He's still joining you, he's just delayed it and won't have the fulleh sick ITBs...
    • The strange thing is this is a URAS front bumper (or clone of it). The bumper actually does not sit flush with the GTT hood - You need the addon to make the hood 'long' enough to reach the bumper. I have no idea why they didn't incorporate this piece into the bumper itself.. instead of sticking it to the hood instead.
    • Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
    • So I'm in the final stages of assembling my single turbo RB30/26 and had a question regarding MAP reference points.  I've seen several recommendations such as tapping the cylinder 2/3 ITB, tapping the intake manifold at cylinder 2/3, or using a point on IAC. First two are doable but require permanently modify part and the third is "out" as I plan to delete the IAC.  All that to say my question is can I used the "bleeder" in the center of the ballance tube as a MAP Reference? I'm running a catch can so I don't need it for the PCV system. My thought process is it "pulls" from all 6 cylinder, and it's between the ITB and the cylinders making it ideal for MAP reference according to what I can find. Thoughts?
×
×
  • Create New...