Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i have a s15 with a 26 conversion but the diff is from a standard s15 auto i think the diff gears are 3.9 would this affect what power i make im looking to buy a gtr diff soon but just wondering would the auto diff affect the power output also im using a rb25 gearbo if that helps

cheers

hey guys i have a s15 with a 26 conversion but the diff is from a standard s15 auto i think the diff gears are 3.9 would this affect what power i make im looking to buy a gtr diff soon but just wondering would the auto diff affect the power output also im using a rb25 gearbo if that helps

cheers

Final drive ratio makes no difference whatever to your power output. Are you happy with your present gearing or do you want lower for more acceleration or higher for quieter cruise and economy and maybe top speed? Those are the only reasons to change your diff (unless you want a LSD).

3.9s might be a bit tall for teh 26, but the S15 is a pretty light car isn't it? All it's really going to affect is how fast it comes on boost (i.e. if you have a huge laggy turbo then tall ratios aren't for you).

I'm running 3.9s with my 3L but I've got the torque to deal with the taller ratio.

3.9s might be a bit tall for teh 26, but the S15 is a pretty light car isn't it? All it's really going to affect is how fast it comes on boost (i.e. if you have a huge laggy turbo then tall ratios aren't for you).

I'm running 3.9s with my 3L but I've got the torque to deal with the taller ratio.

3.9 tall???

whats a gtr diff ?? as i also ahve a 26 in my s15, but i run a GTR diff and 25 box, i thought the gtr diff was 4.11:1 isnt this taller???? its the same gearing in a gtr isnt it?

Edited by den001

GTR's are 4.11 or 3.9, it escapes me. R34's are 3.45 or so due to the different gearing in the 6 speed.

I think ive got 4.3's... i wish i had 4.11's or 3.9's.

VL/R31s factory are around the 3.45 if memory serves me correct... i wouldnt call 3.9 tall, its still fairly short in terms of a small step from factory

The above could be wrong :ermm:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
    • I just finished up a manual swap and I have a 1999 S2 AWD automatic in my garage, depending on where you are located. I'm in the the midwest of the US.
    • I’ve heard it can be done, you need to redrill the holes where they bolt to the chassis and apart from that they are the same. I’ve never done it or know anyone personally that has, it’s just something I’ve heard 
    • If it's reading full rich prior to a misfire that gives one directional hint, if it's already reading lean, etc. If it's reading pretty cleanly stoichiometric then suddenly drops out from a misfire that suggests it's not air mass estimation that's the problem. Could be ignition, could be something more subtle. Could be the CAS has decided to start dropping out at random or the drive pin is worn leading to excessive lash and trigger errors. LTFT can tell you the same but it's slower to react and if this is a recent issue it might not have stabilized. STFT stuck in one direction vs fluctuating back and forth can be used instead but I like to read O2 voltages anyways and interpret directly. If the O2 voltages make no sense in general or are super slow to react it could also be a failing O2 sensor. There's no real error correction for failing O2 sensors in these cars.
×
×
  • Create New...